How do you suggest I mold a holster for a pistol with a light?

[Trailblazer87]

I've tried searching but couldn't find a good thread on this, even though I know I have come across a couple in my reading here.

 

So with that said, how would you experts suggest i mold a holster for a pistol with a light mounted?  I just recently purchased a Sig P320 and want to mount a light to it since we go riding in less that stellar areas, sometimes at night, and need a way to carry it.

 

I've made a few 1911 holsters with no problems, one for my 686 Smith was fun, but this darn light has me scratching my head.

 

Thank you in advance. 

[Littlef]

At least you actually have the gun, and will have the light.  step one get those two parts together, and trace it out.    If you are doing a vacuum form and you are worried about having some deep recess that could lock the light in place, I'd recommend maybe getting some molding clay and press than in any gaps, then wrap saran wrap around that area before doing your vacuum form.    

Edited Tuesday at 09:45 PM by Littlef

[Trailblazer87]

20 minutes ago, Littlef said:

At least you actually have the gun, and will have the light.  step one get those two parts together, and trace it out.    If you are doing a vacuum form and you are worried about having some deep recess that could lock the light in place, I'd recommend maybe getting some molding clay and press than in any gaps, then wrap saran wrap around that area before doing your vacuum form.    

That makes sense,  I guess my main concern is the light is wider than the trigger guard out of necessity to be able to get a finger on the switch, normally retention is made by molding to the trigger guard and ejection port. I'm not too keen on using the light as the point of friction for retention, I guess a retention strap will be in order.

[Littlef]

Gotcha, yea when the area around the end of the barrel is wider than the trigger guard, retention is tricky.   Making a thumb break will definitely help.  Another thing I've seen done, to add stiffness, is to mold a strip of kydex and sandwich it between the outer leather and the liner.   - that might be worth keeping in mind if you have fit/retention issues as you work it out.  

[Brooks125]

Tactical lights are one of the few no-go's for me. The round Streamlight variety are just not conducive, in my opinion.  The flat lights that match the width of the gun are fine, but still not ideal.  The width makes it hard to mold the leather, and keep it's shape over a large area, and holstering is tough.  You lose the "funnel" effect of the profile.  I liken it to trying to push a beer can into a coozie, with no side support'

 

I'm not saying it's impossible, but I've had no luck on that front.  That being said, if you figure it out, by all means, let us know.  I've turned down many orders for that very thing. I refer them to a Kydex maker.

[Mablung]

Use a thumb break retention strap or mold the retention around the light and slide. I’ve done one for my CZ P-01 with a Streamlight TLR-7A that way. Some molding around the trigger guard is okay, but just not too deep. 

[chiefjason]

Mask off the area at the trigger guard to match the width of the light.  Yes, it will leave a larger gap than normal.  But the light will provide stability of its own.  Scrap leather cut to size works for me.  You will need to stitch in front of the light to build a ledge for the gun to sit on.  That is also normally the trigger guard provides that.  

 

 

[Trailblazer87]

All good stuff so far, thanks.

[Dwight]

Well . . . here is how I do it . . . someone else showed me on another video  . . .   here is my version.

May God bless,

Dwight

https://youtu.be/ELmvtb2SyWo

[Trailblazer87]

12 hours ago, Dwight said:

Well . . . here is how I do it . . . someone else showed me on another video  . . .   here is my version.

May God bless,

Dwight

https://youtu.be/ELmvtb2SyWo

Good stuff, thank you for sharing