No-weld DIY speed reducer

[weldtoride]

First of all, thanks to everyone here who posted about their own DIY speed reducers, I studied all that I could find.

A couple years back, I ran across a Singer 111W155 at a church sale, on a table complete with clutch motor.  At the sale it looked oiled and cared for; the drawer under the table contained bobbins, needles, etc.   It looked like it was just unplugged and then sat somewhere dusty for a while.  When I plugged in it ran, so I risked the $75 they were asking and brought it home.  I am trying to learn sewing for leather upholstery on a Seiko STH-8BLD-3 we already own.  However, the price on the old Singer was too tempting to pass, as I am fond of old machines.

After downloading manuals, and some fresh oil, I threaded it with #138 thread and test-sewed it.  Test sewing was extremely difficult because for me the clutch was either off, or "off to the races!"  I am familiar with TIG welding pedal controls, and still own a manual transmission truck, but the Singer clutch was beyond my patience.

Second of all, I want to thank Wiz for posts that steered me to the guys at Toledo Sewing who answered my questions about servo motors and the great service they provided me when I purchased a Consew servo motor last month. 

The Consew slowed it down tremendously, but I wanted my walking foot to crawl so I built this speed reducer.

Even though I have welding capacities,  bolting and not welding also allowed me to make changes as I went along.  My design ethic is Keep It Simple, so I came up with this.  The other part of my design ethic is use what you already have around it you can. 

I started for free in a friend's hoard of old stuff with an old set of pillow block bearings that held a 9/16" shaft that had a 2" pulley, to which I added a new 8" pulley from from Ace ($20).  

I cut two lengths of 1" square tubing to the width of my  table legs, and two squares of 3/16" steel plate big enough to mount my bearing blocks on.  

I bolted it together all with 3/8" hardware.  The two plates with the bearings sandwich the square tubing allowing it can slide front-to-aft.  The square tubing sandwiches my front and rear table legs, so It can slide up and down.  Sliding allows me to adjust the belt tensions.

I will freely admit that some of this is over-kill, but I was using what I had in my shop. If I was to buy new, I would choose 1/2" shaft and bearings, 5/16" hardware, and maybe 1/8" plate.

 

 

Another $30 for 2 new 3L  V-belts belts and here's what I have.

 

  

 

Edited November 9 by weldtoride
clarity

[Southerngunner]

 Well  thought out and great job, is your larger pulley 8".

[weldtoride]

Thank you for the compliment! 

The larger pulley is an 8"  Chicago Diecast brand from Ace hardware, $20. Smaller pulley is 2" cast iron that came with the old bearings. 

[kgg]

1 hour ago, weldtoride said:

The Consew slowed it down tremendously, but I wanted my walking foot to crawl so I built this speed reducer.

Nicely done. That pulley combination should knock the speed down by 75%.

kgg

[weldtoride]

Thank you kgg,  real slow is just right for my beginner skill set.

I want to offer the original (?)  Singer motor, bracket, switchbox with capacitor, etc to anyone for pickup.  I live midway between Chicago and Milwaukee.  Lately I travel frequently to Evanston, Il, and to Ellison Bay, Wi, so could meet somewhere along way within reason.  

Serial number on sewing machine indicates 1951 production.  Motor has 2 1/2" pulley.

Moderators: Should I post in For Sale, even though it's give-way?

 

 

  

 

Edited November 9 by weldtoride

[Northmount]

2 hours ago, weldtoride said:

Moderators: Should I post in For Sale, even though it's give-way?

Yes, state it is free.  Some comment about shipping or meet up.

[dikman]

Nice job on the reducer, the method of adjustment is ingenious and simple.

[Calidora]

Very nice. I just might build one like that. Thanks for sharing