First machine stitch ever...can the backside be improved?

[ColoradoHiker]

The backside of the stitch looks a little off to me. This is literally my first project with a machine. Techsew 5100; #24 R point needle, 277 nylon thread (which is threaded correctly through the machine); pushing through two layers of glued up 5oz (10 oz total). Is there an adjustment to be made to make this look better? Or am I expecting too much from a large needle/thread combo? Thanks for your thoughts.

First image is top side. Second image is the bottom side.

[Goldshot Ron]

You need to adjust the top thread, which in this case tighten it some.  The top thread is showing on the bottom between the stitches of the bobbin thread.  But first, what size bobbin thread are you using?  Example: 277 for top thread, the bobbin should be 207 (one size lighter than the top thread).  In fact, if you were to use a lighter bobbin thread, you might not have to adjust the top thread.  Your stitches do not look that bad, it just takes practice.

Ron

[ColoradoHiker]

Thanks. I'm using 277 thread on the bobbin too. Had no idea I should use lighter thread on that. Thank you. I'll try lighter bobbin thread and if that doesn't get me where I want to be, I will adjust the top tension.

[kgg]

  On 3/31/2025 at 11:16 PM, Goldshot Ron said:

Example: 277 for top thread, the bobbin should be 207 (one size lighter than the top thread). 

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Why the smaller bobbin thread??? By doing that you have degraded the strength of the stitch to that of V207. The seam is going to be only as strong as that of the thinner V207 thread.

 

  On 3/31/2025 at 10:43 PM, ColoradoHiker said:

#24 R point needle, 277 nylon thread

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The #24 needle is only recommend for V207 not 277. Here is a good reference chart for needle size to thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). Using the incorrect needle size can cause tension problems and the thread being caught in the needle hole which can cause bottom thread inconsistencies. In thicker leather move up a needle size. Sometimes you would use a larger top thread then whats in the bobbin for the visual appearance of the top stitch but using the correct needle size for the top thread.

kgg

Edited April 1 by kgg

[ColoradoHiker]

Thanks. I will try a #25 and see what happens. I appreciate all the feedback. My wife thanks all of you because her bag will look much better because of all of the knowledge input!

[Northmount]

  On 3/31/2025 at 10:43 PM, ColoradoHiker said:

The backside of the stitch looks a little off to me. This is literally my first project with a machine.

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Moved your post to leather sewing machines.

[Wizcrafts]

  On 3/31/2025 at 10:43 PM, ColoradoHiker said:

Techsew 5100; #24 R point needle, 277 nylon thread (which is threaded correctly through the machine); pushing through two layers of glued up 5oz (10 oz total).

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Your thread is one size too large for 10 ounces of leather. I recommend moving down to #207. It is too hard to bury the knots with #277 until you approach 1/4 inch thickness. I have done it in 12-13 ounces, but only after tightening both the top and bottom tensions (to overcome density variations or glue between the layers).

[ColoradoHiker]

  On 4/1/2025 at 4:04 PM, Wizcrafts said:

Your thread is one size too large for 10 ounces of leather. I recommend moving down to #207. It is too hard to bury the knots with #277 until you approach 1/4 inch thickness. I have done it in 12-13 ounces, but only after tightening both the top and bottom tensions (to overcome density variations or glue between the layers).

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Thanks. I will try 207, just really like how 277 mimics the thread diameter/look of my saddle stitching. I switched to a #25 last night and the backside of the stitch improved dramatically.