Can I prevent the back of a single layer veg tan belt from buckling like this?

[Freak_NL]

This week I reused an old buckle and made a new belt for daily wear. Nothing too fancy, just a single strip of veg tan 7/8 oz leather.

For the finish I went through these steps:

• Dye-prep, and then dye (Fiebing's Pro Dye)
• Wait an hour or so
• Apply neatsfoot oil (not too much)
• Wait a day or so
• Burnish the flesh side with Tokonole
• Wait two hours or so
• Finish with Resolene

Now, I am not dissatisfied with the resulting belt, but whenever I make a belt like this, the backside quickly develops this — what to call it? — buckling? crackling? bunching? On this photo the middle image is the backside at the tongue end:

Is this simply inevitable with a belt made from a single strip of 7/8 oz leather? I've read some topics here about problems with a Resolene finish cracking, but this seems to be the leather itself which bunches up. I get the feeling I am missing something really obvious — either that this is just how it works, or that there is a better way to do this.

[chuck123wapati]

what part of the hide are you cutting the belt straps from?

It looks like a softer part of the hide on that end. Not all parts of the hide are the same density or strength.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, Freak_NL said:

Is this simply inevitable with a belt made from a single strip of 7/8 oz leather?

I make my belt with two layers of 6.5 oz glued back to back and stitched with V138 on the edge. I like a heavier belt and it holds it's shape better. Also looking at your photo's I noticed the wriggling starts at the holes you wear the belt at. The holes you punched are round rather then oblong but the holes will sorta go oblong which maybe contributing to the wriggles which are I think caused by the leather stretching. Also doing a stitch line about 3 or 4 mm in from the edge will help the leather from stretching.

kgg

[AlZilla]

I'd lose the neatsfoot oil. Maybe just on the end. That stuff can really soften leather.

[Dwight]

Let's talk about how you use resolene . . . 

I had problems similar when I first used it . . . because I used it too strong . . . and used too much of it.

First . . . mix it 50 / 50 with COLD water . . . not ice water . . . just tap water from the cold side.  I actually don't mix it . . . I shake it . . . mixes real good that way.

I use a cheap 1 inch bristle brush I got from harbor freight . . . cost about 30 cents each or so . . . maybe more now . . . have not bought any in a while.

Dip the brush fully . . . and start wetting the belt . . . or whatever you are doing . . . process is the same for all items.

As you wet it . . . swirl the brush in little circles . . . building a light froth . . . you definitely want to see them there bubbles.  

Once you have gone end to end with the froth . . . the start end will be trying to dry out . . . hit it again . . . this time using long strokes . . . then cross wise strokes . . .  then long strokes . . . then cross wise . . . 

Keep this up until there seems to be no change in the finish.

Hang it up for a couple hours . . . get it down then and play with it . . . you want to flex it a bit . . . not seriously . . . just a bit . . . 

Last thing . . . especially with belts . . .  find a 3/8 or 1/2 inch steel bar . . . roll the belt over that rod . . . pull the belt up close to your stomach . . . roll it across the rod . . .  and pull it down sharply . . . flexing it the full length . . . and do it both ways.

Give it an hour or two to rest . . . and then just use it.

Using this process  . . .  I have no more trouble with my belts or the resolene.   I will have to say though . . . I make very few single layer . . . most all are double.

May God bless,,

Dwight

[Freak_NL]

13 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

what part of the hide are you cutting the belt straps from?

I'm cutting them from a piece of shoulder.

12 hours ago, kgg said:

I make my belt with two layers of 6.5 oz glued back to back and stitched with V138 on the edge. I like a heavier belt and it holds it's shape better. Also looking at your photo's I noticed the wriggling starts at the holes you wear the belt at. The holes you punched are round rather then oblong but the holes will sorta go oblong which maybe contributing to the wriggles which are I think caused by the leather stretching. Also doing a stitch line about 3 or 4 mm in from the edge will help the leather from stretching.

I'll definitely give that approach a go sometime (despite being limited to hand stitching). I did do a belt with two straps of 4 oz leather before, but the same effect happened there as well (just not as quickly). That one did not have any stitching though.

Perhaps I should consider oblong hole punches as well for belt holes?

By the way, I love the sturdy look of that belt. That's something I would consider making as a gift if I manage to sort this problem out.

@Dwight I'll give your tips on Resolene some careful consideration. I've been using a small wet cube of kitchen sponge with a small amount of Resolene in a container for applying. I'll mix it up the next time.

Now that you mention it, I think I've read that tip about prestressing the belt with an iron bar before, that could be worth a go. When in the whole process do you do that exactly?

Thanks all for the help so far.

Edited Friday at 08:28 AM by Freak_NL

[Dwight]

The steel rod part is the last thing before putting it on . . . or handing it to a customer

May God bless,

Dwight

[chuck123wapati]

3 hours ago, Freak_NL said:

I'm cutting them from a piece of shoulder.

I'll definitely give that approach a go sometime (despite being limited to hand stitching). I did do a belt with two straps of 4 oz leather before, but the same effect happened there as well (just not as quickly). That one did not have any stitching though.

Perhaps I should consider oblong hole punches as well for belt holes?

By the way, I love the sturdy look of that belt. That's something I would consider making as a gift if I manage to sort this problem out.

@Dwight I'll give your tips on Resolene some careful consideration. I've been using a small wet cube of kitchen sponge with a small amount of Resolene in a container for applying. I'll mix it up the next time.

Now that you mention it, I think I've read that tip about prestressing the belt with an iron bar before, that could be worth a go. When in the whole process do you do that exactly?

Thanks all for the help so far.

then it could very well be the stretchy part of the hide around the legs and belly. Try using a half hide and cutting from front to back, you will get better results.