Airbrush and Fiebing's pro dye

[Mocivnik]

So I've been using Nasvidal's airbrush to dye my leather, but I'm stepping into a huge problem, and that's cleaning. Whenever I spray paint leather, this is how I work and clean:

-isopropanol - brown dye - isopropanol - black dye - isopropanol - resolene - isopropanol.

I always go from lightest to the darkest (even because of my designs) so I don't get any small blobs of previous dye thrown out, although I get sometimes a black mark while using resolene on finishing leather.

Now I'm getting a huge huge problem with (mostly black) Fiebing's pro dye, since I cannot get it out of airbrush 100%. I've been changing airbrush guns every 6 months, as they are clogged and not even acetone can clean them up.

 

Anyone knows how to properly airbrush leather and having an easy way of 100% cleaning it later on? Maybe using Fiebings dye reducer or that's not needed?

[billybopp]

It can take several runs of clean water through an airbrush to clean it.  Clean immediately after using the airbrush.  Dyes usually have alcohol in them as a carrier for pigments, and alcohol can degrade o-ring seals in the airbrush over time.  A little isopropyl to clean the airbrush is fine, but again - don't let it sit with it in contact with rubber parts.  Dye sitting in the airbrush works can evaporate quickly, leaving pigment behind.  

What I usually do is clean immediately after use with alcohol, followed by water.  If the airbrush is to sit for any length of time, I disassemble it and use an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner with water and a drop of soap to clean, then put the parts out to let them dry.  If the above cleaning tactics don't work, you may need to use the ultrasonic bath more often.

 

- Bill

[DoogMeister]

I use Feibing's Pro dyes and an airbrush.

I spray 91% isopropyl alcohol (obtain at the drug store - don't use the more common 70%) thru the airbrush, then remove the spray tip and needle, and soak the tip and airbrush (stand them up in a small glass bottle or jar) in alcohol for a couple of hours.  The alcohol can generally be re-used if only slightly stained.  The key is to get all the dye pigments out.  I've never had to use anything but soaking to get the airbrush clean.

With water-based finished, such as resolene, I use hot water instead.

Never a problem and have been using the same airbrush for several years.

[Northmount]

13 hours ago, Mocivnik said:

Anyone knows how to properly airbrush leather and having an easy way of 100% cleaning it later on? Maybe using Fiebings dye reducer or that's not needed?

Moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners

[Mocivnik]

21 hours ago, billybopp said:

It can take several runs of clean water through an airbrush to clean it.  Clean immediately after using the airbrush.  Dyes usually have alcohol in them as a carrier for pigments, and alcohol can degrade o-ring seals in the airbrush over time.  A little isopropyl to clean the airbrush is fine, but again - don't let it sit with it in contact with rubber parts.  Dye sitting in the airbrush works can evaporate quickly, leaving pigment behind.  

What I usually do is clean immediately after use with alcohol, followed by water.  If the airbrush is to sit for any length of time, I disassemble it and use an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner with water and a drop of soap to clean, then put the parts out to let them dry.  If the above cleaning tactics don't work, you may need to use the ultrasonic bath more often.

 

- Bill

I've tried using ultrasonic cleaner and 1dl ~3.3oz. isopropanol for dismantled airbrush gun, but no major success was reached that day. 2 times for 30 minutes and didn't do much. Also used ethyl acetate(solvent, used as base for Fiebings dyes) to disolve, but wasnt very successful. 

I've also dipped my previous airbrush into acetone, and I think it didn't do much good except destroy o-rings. I'd really love to dismantle the whole gun to every last bit part and dip into kerosine or something really strong, use new o-rings and assemble back. Then should be as good as new.

 

@DoogMeister It never occured me, that resolene is water based. And it makes so much sense now, as going "isopropanol - brown dye - isopropanol - black dye - isopropanol - resolene - isopropanol" never actually cleans resolene out, since it's water based not alcohol. Will do soon now!

 

Thanks to both for these instructions!
 

@Northmount Sorry and thank you.