Crossdraw Slim Jim Holster for Hunting ?

[bcraig]

Hi
I joined back in 2019 and and had a really good time on the sight.
I am back now and got some more questions .

I have a piece of 7-9 vegetable tanned leather that has been sitting in the laundry room for close to 3 years,will it still be ok to make a couple of slim Jim Holsters from?
It has not been wet nor exposed to the elements.
If so

I am wanting to make a Slim Jim holster for use to deer hunt with a Pietta Remington 1858 New Army with an 8 inch barrel and just curious whether the slim Jim would make a good holster for my purpose.
I am old and disabled and unable to walk very far so I would be useing a truck or a SXS to drive within a hundred yards or so of where I want to hunt on privately owned farm.
Then I would walk out to the general area and find a good place to sit down with my back against a big tree,and take the Cap and ball revolver out and sit there until or if I see a deer that I want to take.

I am thinking that a Crossdraw Slim Jim Holster would be good for either the truck ride or a SXS ride,I would also want hammer thong in case of a bunpy ride on the side by side and also would feel better about the gun being secure and Unable to have the hammer pulled back by brush or a limb and this combined whith the depth that it would ride in the Slim Jim holster.

I also want to make the same type of holster for a Pietta GWII 45 colt / with a 45 ACP convertible cylinder.It has a 4-3/4 inch barrel.

I think that both of these revolvers are good looking revolvers so I would not want to unduly rub the finish of of either /also have the 5.5 inch barrel 1858 and the Pietta has a color case hardened finish.

Would making the holsters rough side out help along thos lines or be better lined ?

I have never made a rough side out or a lined holster and it has been years since I made a holster at all.

I would appreciate ya'lls input

[dikman]

I have zero experience with using a revolver like you want to (we are only allowed to use pistols at a range, definitely no hunting with them) but from what you've described I would think a Slim Jim should work well. They were originally intended to enable a revolver to be carried safely and to protect the revolver, hence they tend to cover most of it with usually only the grips and hammer protruding. They are also a "minimalist" style without all of the extra bulk of the rear skirt of the later styles so a cross-draw should sit comfortably when driving and again hold the revolver safely.

As for the leather, no reason it shouldn't work. The only thing to watch is attaching the belt loop, don't use an uncovered rivet as it will scratch the revolver, better to stitch the loop before folding over to stitch the edge.

Anyhow, it sounds like a plan to me.

[Dwight]

We have a lot of the same things going for us.  I'm 80 . . . and while I can walk pretty good . . . I don't add extra if I don't have to.

Given all of the particulars you mentioned . . . I would not do a cross draw . . . I would do a chest holster . . . with probably a hammer thong to hold it in place.

I think could be made so it would fit the  45 as well as the Remington clone.  Laugh if you will . . . but I would make the holster for the larger of the two (I'm thinking the Remington would be) . . . and letting it also be used for the 45.  

If there is a big difference in the barrel length . . . a short piece of wooden dowel could be dropped in the toe of the holster to keep the 45 from falling all the way down in.  Tie a slim leather thong to that piece of wood . . . and it could be pulled out for the Remington.

Cross draw holsters for large pistols are uncomfortable for me . . . chest holsters are much better . . . but you'll have to make that decision.

Making the holster standard or rough out . . . makes little difference unless the flesh side is really rough.  Don't add a lot of finish to the inside of the holster . . . as the finish is harder than the leather.  Also never leave your weapon in the holster when you come back in.  Also keep them minimally oiled . . . as the excessive oil will be picked up by the leather . . . then dust . . . and it will act like sandpaper.  

For what you are doing you should not need to line it . . . just make it and use it . . . 

Have fun.

May God bless,

Dwight

 

[dikman]

I didn't think of a chest holster, not surprising seeing that we're not allowed to have them so I haven't tried one but yes, that could work quite well, the down-side is that it will be a lot more complicated to make. It could be a bit daunting for someone without a lot of experience making holsters?

[Dwight]

2 hours ago, dikman said:

I didn't think of a chest holster, not surprising seeing that we're not allowed to have them so I haven't tried one but yes, that could work quite well, the down-side is that it will be a lot more complicated to make. It could be a bit daunting for someone without a lot of experience making holsters?

Making a chest holster is really pretty simple as long as one does not get all wrapped up in technicalities.

Take this simple picture of a slim jim . . . instead of a flap going down over the belt . . . a slight oval or round part is cut in the pattern to allow the back of the pistol to lay against your chest.

Into this oval . . . three tabs are made that simply go thru a "D" ring . . . and on each side of the holster . . . and are riveted thru the oval.

I like an inch and a quarter belt going from the D ring as you see it on the right side . . . it goes all the way around your back . . . and attaches with a snap hook to the D ring you see on the left of the picture.  Just make it adjustable enough to wear with a Tee shirt or your favorite cold weather hunting coat.

Attached to the top D ring is another strap that goes up over your left shoulder if you want to wear it off center . . . or over your right shoulder if you want it to point pretty much straight down between your legs. 

Personally . . . I prefer the left shoulder . . . it is more comfortable for me.

You can put a thumb break . . . a hammer loop . . . or a suicide strap on it to retain the gun . . . and some guys like a loop that goes down to their britches belt to hold it from flopping if you are running or going down hill in the brush.

Seriously . . . this is a simple rig to make . . . and I've never had anyone say it is seriously un-comfortable . . . while I have heard that with cross draw holsters.

I've also included a similar rig I did for a guy who wanted one for his plastic fantastic pistola.

May God bless,

Dwight

[chuck123wapati]

I carried a 44 in a cross draw for years, then switched to a shoulder holster that sets just about like Dwight's, and I prefer it over the crossdraw. Not as floppy and you can cover it if the weather turns. Easier to drive with too.

 

[bcraig]

On 6/15/2025 at 7:54 PM, Dwight said:

We have a lot of the same things going for us.  I'm 80 . . . and while I can walk pretty good . . . I don't add extra if I don't have to.

Given all of the particulars you mentioned . . . I would not do a cross draw . . . I would do a chest holster . . . with probably a hammer thong to hold it in place.

I think could be made so it would fit the  45 as well as the Remington clone.  Laugh if you will . . . but I would make the holster for the larger of the two (I'm thinking the Remington would be) . . . and letting it also be used for the 45.  

If there is a big difference in the barrel length . . . a short piece of wooden dowel could be dropped in the toe of the holster to keep the 45 from falling all the way down in.  Tie a slim leather thong to that piece of wood . . . and it could be pulled out for the Remington.

Cross draw holsters for large pistols are uncomfortable for me . . . chest holsters are much better . . . but you'll have to make that decision.

Making the holster standard or rough out . . . makes little difference unless the flesh side is really rough.  Don't add a lot of finish to the inside of the holster . . . as the finish is harder than the leather.  Also never leave your weapon in the holster when you come back in.  Also keep them minimally oiled . . . as the excessive oil will be picked up by the leather . . . then dust . . . and it will act like sandpaper.  

For what you are doing you should not need to line it . . . just make it and use it . . . 

Have fun.

May God bless,

Dwight

 

Hi Dwight 
I remember you helping me a LOT making a holster for a Bersa Thunder plus !
I will look back at my messages and see when it was.

Looks like it was around December 12 2019 !!
The years have gone by fast.

I am going to have to make the holster for wear on my belt because I have severe neck and back problems,can barely stand to even have a shirt collar on my neck.

The Pietta Remington 1858 is much Larger than the Pietta Emf 45 which is the size of a Colt Peacemaker 45 
 

Edited Tuesday at 08:48 AM by bcraig

[bcraig]

On 6/15/2025 at 6:36 PM, dikman said:

I have zero experience with using a revolver like you want to (we are only allowed to use pistols at a range, definitely no hunting with them) but from what you've described I would think a Slim Jim should work well. They were originally intended to enable a revolver to be carried safely and to protect the revolver, hence they tend to cover most of it with usually only the grips and hammer protruding. They are also a "minimalist" style without all of the extra bulk of the rear skirt of the later styles so a cross-draw should sit comfortably when driving and again hold the revolver safely.

As for the leather, no reason it shouldn't work. The only thing to watch is attaching the belt loop, don't use an uncovered rivet as it will scratch the revolver, better to stitch the loop before folding over to stitch the edge.

Anyhow, it sounds like a plan to me.

Thanks ,I appreciate your input.

[bcraig]

20 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

I carried a 44 in a cross draw for years, then switched to a shoulder holster that sets just about like Dwight's, and I prefer it over the crossdraw. Not as floppy and you can cover it if the weather turns. Easier to drive with too.

 

Yes I can see some afvantages but like I was telling Dwight I cant bear to wear a shoulder rig anymore.
If the Weather turns I am coming out of the woods as fast as I can and geyying in the Truck or side by  side !
And if it does not catch me by suprise I will be sitting in the truck before the first raindrop hits,hopefully !

Thanks for your input to,I appreciate it.

[bcraig]

On 6/15/2025 at 6:36 PM, dikman said:

I have zero experience with using a revolver like you want to (we are only allowed to use pistols at a range, definitely no hunting with them) but from what you've described I would think a Slim Jim should work well. They were originally intended to enable a revolver to be carried safely and to protect the revolver, hence they tend to cover most of it with usually only the grips and hammer protruding. They are also a "minimalist" style without all of the extra bulk of the rear skirt of the later styles so a cross-draw should sit comfortably when driving and again hold the revolver safely.

As for the leather, no reason it shouldn't work. The only thing to watch is attaching the belt loop, don't use an uncovered rivet as it will scratch the revolver, better to stitch the loop before folding over to stitch the edge.

Anyhow, it sounds like a plan to me.

Thanks,I am not going to be using any rivets, just sewing a loop to the back of the holster before stitching the edge.
Wonder if I need to use a welt given the weight of the leather I will be using?

Edited Tuesday at 09:10 AM by bcraig

[Dwight]

4 hours ago, bcraig said:

Thanks,I am not going to be using any rivets, just sewing a loop to the back of the holster before stitching the edge.
Wonder if I need to use a welt given the weight of the leather I will be using?

Generally speaking  . . .  me and the welt don't get together until everything else is done . . . and time to add or not add the welt.  Most of the time is is . . . but slim Jims are a different animal . . . the gun is so far down . . . doesn't make a lot of difference.

Anyway . . . I get it 100% ready for stitching . . . minus the contact cement . . . fold it over . . . and laying on the work table . . . I check the fit.  Most of the time a welt is advantageous . . . sometimes not . . . 

Make sure we get to see pictures . . . and I'm seriously sorry to hear the shoulder problem.  My doc injected something in my right shoulder some 20 years ago . . . very little problems since then.

I don't have any "butt" . . . so belts don't do a lot for me . . . I do the suspender routine.  Which makes any shoulder rig a good deal for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[chuck123wapati]

4 hours ago, bcraig said:

Yes I can see some afvantages but like I was telling Dwight I cant bear to wear a shoulder rig anymore.
If the Weather turns I am coming out of the woods as fast as I can and geyying in the Truck or side by  side !
And if it does not catch me by suprise I will be sitting in the truck before the first raindrop hits,hopefully !

Thanks for your input to,I appreciate it.

Well, then your idea will work just fine. I used a cross-draw for several years with no problems. I made mine with a large belt loop so the holster could ride up and move a bit when I am sitting in the truck. Also, sew in a toe so you don't sit down and plug the barrel with dirt.

There is a lot of conversation on holster wear and how it happens. I prefer a tight holster, wet-formed, so there is no wear from the gun moving in the holster, and no dirt gets in either, so what side rough or skin is next ot the gun doesn't matter.

[bcraig]

5 hours ago, Dwight said:

Generally speaking  . . .  me and the welt don't get together until everything else is done . . . and time to add or not add the welt.  Most of the time is is . . . but slim Jims are a different animal . . . the gun is so far down . . . doesn't make a lot of difference.

Anyway . . . I get it 100% ready for stitching . . . minus the contact cement . . . fold it over . . . and laying on the work table . . . I check the fit.  Most of the time a welt is advantageous . . . sometimes not . . . 

Make sure we get to see pictures . . . and I'm seriously sorry to hear the shoulder problem.  My doc injected something in my right shoulder some 20 years ago . . . very little problems since then.

I don't have any "butt" . . . so belts don't do a lot for me . . . I do the suspender routine.  Which makes any shoulder rig a good deal for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

Yes my neck and lower back have has the nerves burnt and supposed to las for 6 months to a year and that only lasted about 4 months
,Going to have to get it done again,got spinal stenosis and degenerative disc disease.
Less than a week or so ago I had to have a procedure done to my heart because of some chest pains and very low blood pressure.
I had a stent in 2005-2006 and then in 2016 had a triple bypass and then in 2023 had 4 more stents put in and this last procedure doctor said that one of the bypasses was pretty well gone and he put in a ballon that releases medicine .
and It looks like for years that I have been taking those no azatol pills.
My butt bone sits on whatever I am sitting on and regula doc told me I need to get something I think is called a Donut pillow  so the sore place on my butt sits in the hole not touching anything and supported on bith sides by the hips and edge of my butt.

Anyway do I need to find a template somewhere or just tale some thin cardboard and staple it around the gun?

Talk to you later

 

[bcraig]

5 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

Well, then your idea will work just fine. I used a cross-draw for several years with no problems. I made mine with a large belt loop so the holster could ride up and move a bit when I am sitting in the truck. Also, sew in a toe so you don't sit down and plug the barrel with dirt.

There is a lot of conversation on holster wear and how it happens. I prefer a tight holster, wet-formed, so there is no wear from the gun moving in the holster, and no dirt gets in either, so what side rough or skin is next ot the gun doesn't matter.

Chuck the large belt loop sounds like a good idea,I have always used open ended holsters but I may try sewing the end shut.
I have read of pros and cons throughout the years with  one of the so called cons being that when it is closed on the end that anything coming in the top cant just fall through the end,what is your thoughts on that ?

Later Chuck

[dikman]

There are plenty of youtube vids showing how to make a pattern but it's pretty simple for a slimjim, basically do as you said, fold some cardboard around the gun and mark out the shape and allow for the stitch line. If you look at the top of this section there is a tutorial on making a slimjim.

[chuck123wapati]

16 hours ago, bcraig said:

Chuck the large belt loop sounds like a good idea,I have always used open ended holsters but I may try sewing the end shut.
I have read of pros and cons throughout the years with  one of the so called cons being that when it is closed on the end that anything coming in the top cant just fall through the end,what is your thoughts on that ?

Later Chuck

Have you ever tried to dig mud out of your pistol barrel two miles in from your truck? I have lol. Hunting holsters, IMO, are a different animal from carry holsters. I have had more problems with stuff coming in the bottom at the wrong times, accidentally sitting down, and falling down. Once your critter is down, you are also down on the ground gutting, skinning etc. Anyway, that's my take from personal experience, the amount of debris that I have collected coming in the holster from the top is minimal if the weapon fits the holster properly.

[chuck123wapati]

19 hours ago, bcraig said:

Chuck the large belt loop sounds like a good idea,I have always used open ended holsters but I may try sewing the end shut.
I have read of pros and cons throughout the years with  one of the so called cons being that when it is closed on the end that anything coming in the top cant just fall through the end,what is your thoughts on that ?

Later Chuck

Here are a couple of pics of my crossdraw, as you can see it's had some use lol. But its prime use is to keep my original Colt Anaconda looking good, clean, and functional in extreme circumstances. It's made deep to cover the cylinder, closed to protect the barrel, and you can see that the loop is made so the gun hangs at an angle, with balance being the key factor. you don't want your loop fighting gravity.