McJeep Report post Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) So, I'm in the final stretch of making some engine guard chaps of double layer 12'ish ounce. Am cementing fronts to backs and of course it's absolutely impossible (for me anyway) to end up with perfectly matching edges. Have trimmed as close as I can with razor blades and could use some advice on what tool I can use to finish things. File? Sandpaper? dremel? Is there a leather plane of some sort that I can get? Thanks in advance folks :0) Rob PS - when I came to post this question I got totally sidetracked by KK's seat tutorial, read it all 3 times, came back to the forum and wondered where on earth my post had gone? Then realized I hadn't posted it yet All of the great info here can really hold a person back from accomplishing stuff LMAO Edited January 16, 2009 by McJeep Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhide1 Report post Posted January 16, 2009 You can use a belt sander or spindle sander. Just be sure not to burn the leather. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Report post Posted January 16, 2009 So, I'm in the final stretch of making some engine guard chaps of double layer 12'ish ounce. Am cementing fronts to backs and of course it's absolutely impossible (for me anyway) to end up with perfectly matching edges. Have trimmed as close as I can with razor blades and could use some advice on what tool I can use to finish things. File? Sandpaper? dremel? Is there a leather plane of some sort that I can get? Rob, sandpaper works great. I use that purple, longlasting sanding stuff (whatever it's called) on a block. Been using the same piece for more than a year. In future, don't try to cut 2 identical pieces. Cut the top and adhere it to a bigger piece, then use your blade to run around the edge. There are quite a few options for finishing your edge - edging tools will give you a rounded edge. Then, a simple way is to dye the dge and burnish it. After that, apply your finish on all sides including the edge. Or, you can use a specific edge coating acrylic. Ian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McJeep Report post Posted January 16, 2009 Thanks guys - sandpaper it is. Recommended grit that won't leave the edges all feathery? As for layering a cut piece on top of a roughcut piece, did that and used a razor blade to trim but it's jussssst not quite there ;0) Heading to the tandy shop today to pick up some nippers and punches that I ordered and gonna pick up an edging tool for rounding while I'm there - hopefully he has em in stock. Have some edge dye and will burnish to a certain extent - the edges aren't going to be very visible by any stretch but I want things tiddly and sealed up well ... doh, gotta pick up some bees wax while I'm out too. Thanks guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 19, 2009 So, I'm in the final stretch of making some engine guard chaps of double layer 12'ish ounce. Am cementing fronts to backs and of course it's absolutely impossible (for me anyway) to end up with perfectly matching edges. Have trimmed as close as I can with razor blades and could use some advice on what tool I can use to finish things. File? Sandpaper? dremel? Is there a leather plane of some sort that I can get? Take a look at my thread about edging, . . . on my second post you can see the tools I use. I would rather use my spool sander on my drill press, . . . but it's too cold out in the shed, . . . so I use my Dremel at my desk in the living room. My edging tools are pictured there also, . . . mostly now I use gum tagacanth, . . . makes a real nice edging. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McJeep Report post Posted January 19, 2009 Very kewl - thanks much :0) Those dremel tools look way easy for me to make and I'll try that. Did you just use the screw in dremel arbors? (like the ones for polishing bits) Or get longer a screw for the screw types. Ended up using an angle grinder with a sandpaper flap whell on it to even the double edges, then a rounding tool, then dressed em just by hand with spit (ewww LOL) so that I could basically teach myself that I don't want to do that job by hand again ;0) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 19, 2009 Just use the 1/8" bit that you drill the base with, . . . it fits the Dremel arbor and is a cheap tool. Go to Tandy, . . . get some Gum Tragacanth, . . . moisten the edges with it and your finger, . . . burnish it with the Dremel on about 2500 rpms, . . . polishes up like a brand new Ford. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rhall Report post Posted January 21, 2009 This may sound silly, but I have a broken heavy Glass jar edge that works just great! You may have break a few to get that piece that works with one to four passes but it works so well you wont believe it!!After a little practice on the angle of approach it is slik. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted January 22, 2009 If you adhere the smaller piece to the larger and THEN trim it will go well. I have found it easier to use a french edger to true up the edges than my round knife. I always seem to hold it at a slight angle at some point when I am trimming whereas the french edger can be used as you eye it flatly against the edges making for a really square 90* edge. pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites