How do I make this watch strap?

[wayner123]

Hello all,

I am new to this board and after searching and reading for a while I am really digging this place. You all defintely have some talent!!

I included a picture of a watch strap I would like to do a similar design of. I don't plan to copy it (that wouldn't be right) but it shows what type of depth I am looking for. This is 10oz tooling leather. My questions are these:

1. What tool(s) are needed in order to get this type of depth? If you notice the wavy pattern that goes the length of the strap, it is fairly raised. I have tried to figure out which tool(s) would be best to do this but all the bevel's I have seen would be to thin to allow for such a groove.

2. The center "groove" that runs down the center and has holes punched in it, I couldn't find a bevel to make this large of a groove. Only thing that came close was a wood groover. Is that typical to use a wood groover on leather?

These are just some questions I have. If you have any tips or any other advice, please tell me. It will be greatly appreciated.

Close up:

Edited May 7, 2007 by wayner123

[Roger]

are you sure that is not laminated?

kinda looks something that would be made from three pieces of leather

[The Major]

are you sure that is not laminated?

kinda looks something that would be made from three pieces of leather

I would agree. Base, plugs, and covered with a light weight leather like goat.

Or it was done in a press.

[wayner123]

Thanks for the help so far.

So are you saying this is not possible to carve this with leather tools?

I don't know for certain, but I am 90% sure this is just tooled/carved. There aren't any layers that show. It would be much easier to carve this, than do multiple layers for a laminate.

Plus how do you explain the groove down the center?

This is claimed to be 100% handmade, so no press involved.

[Roger]

i don't see any signs of caving or tooling. it looks like the design is cut to shape and sandwiched between the top and bottom.

[wayner123]

Ok thanks.

So you are saying take 3-5oz leather as base.

Then, put some sort of filler (what would be best here? leather or foam?)

Then form over the two layers a light weight (1oz or less) leather.

The just trim the edges and it would be complete?

Is there some sort of terminology for this type of design? I know they do it a lot in custom upholstery leather where they have a raised design in the seat. Is this the same process?

[Roger]

not sure of the correct tems but as the major said the center piece is the "plug" and should be made from leather. the top layer 1-2oz and soft so that it will contour easily to the plug

[Dale]

My initial thought is that the current prevailing opinion of an embossed plug is correct. But I think there's something else going on, here, too. There appears to be a lot of depth for a watch band. To me, anything more than 3-4 oz is pushing the comfort level for a watch band. So, two additional thoughts come to mind. The first one is that proper lighting could make the piece look thicker in the photograph than it actually is. The other is that something thinner than we're used to using (bookbinding leather, maybe?) was used over the plug. If I were to try to simulate that look by "carving," I would use only a pear shader.

All that being said, I'd be curious how well this thing actually fits the wrist and watch buckle. It looks wicked cool, but it may not wear very well. Let us know what you find out.

[bruce johnson]

I am kind with Dale on this, the depth can be a photo effect. The grain surface of this leather looks a little "porous". Either goat or some of the other grainy (and easily embossed) leathers may be used here over a plug. The other choice may be some of the flankier part of a cowhide, that has that grainy look and is easily compressed to great depths. That particular part of the cowhide wouldn't be my first choice for a watch strap, but we,ve all seen where somebody uses the whole side with no waste. And what better place to use up a small scrap than a watchband?

The one thing I am seeing too that makes me think flank and not plugged is the loop. Who would plug a loop? Much easier to mash down the edges of some fluff.

That said, I am not seeing any edge stitching, and wonder about whether this isn't an embossing press and cement job. Just because they say it is handmade, doesn't mean you can't run press by hand (I do). I think someone mentioned a while back on another group that at a craft fair, someone was passing their work off as "hand stitched". They were using a Boss and running it "by hand". LOL. All in how you look at the glass.

Bruce Johnson

[wayner123]

Guys, thank for all the help.

I am 99% sure this was done by a pear shader. After studying this one and others it does not seem like it would be plausible to do a layered strap.

This strap is really that big. It is 5-6mm thick. These straps are not your average watch strap, they are thick and big.

I am going to get some 10oz tooling leather and go to town with my pear shader. Any thoughts on how best to do the flat parts beside the curvy parts? I know I could stamp down that area, but what is the best tool?

Thanks again.