toxo Posted Sunday at 06:25 AM Author Report Posted Sunday at 06:25 AM Don't you just love it when a plan comes together. Well done. Quote
Members dikman Posted yesterday at 05:50 AM Members Report Posted yesterday at 05:50 AM Had a go at making some dies for a fellow shooter and leatherworker. It's not as easy as it looks and there's an element of luck in trying to match the shapes on two sides. Part of the process is figuring out which combination of tools works best to get a desired result - sometimes it's not what you think. I had to make up another tool because nothing I had would let me get the bend I wanted! I tacked the die together with the MIG, and after I'd taken the photos I put a sharpened bevel edge on one, using a worn 120 grit belt (that reduced the risk of grinding too much and also polished the edge). I put it under the Vevor press with some thick scrap and heaved away, very satisfying when it went clunk! It worked!! The banding works well and is surprisingly tough, although being 1 1/2", compared to the 1" of the steel rule, means it's just a bit harder to work with. Damn, I'm good! Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
kgg Posted yesterday at 02:39 PM Report Posted yesterday at 02:39 PM 8 hours ago, dikman said: Damn, I'm good! Yes you are. I have been following your progress and it is damn good. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members Mulesaw Posted yesterday at 04:47 PM Members Report Posted yesterday at 04:47 PM It's looking really good! I have been toying with the idea of making a die (just for a key fob), I got a used blade for a band saw that I plan on using. I am going to silver solder the ends together, but the sharpening I haven't quite figured out yet. It might be the easiest to do before bending I guess. But anyway, thanks for a lot of fine inspiration:-) Brgds Jonas Quote
Members dikman Posted 18 hours ago Members Report Posted 18 hours ago Using a bandsaw blade should work BUT you'll have to anneal it first otherwise it will snap when you bend it. Once shaped it may need to be re-hardened, depending how stiff/soft it still is. Heating and quenching might warp the shape a bit and you would need to silver solder after re-hardening. Sharpening is a bit of a problem, so far I found the worn belt and a head magnifier the best as although it's slow I have better control. It may not work too well if I ever make a complicated shape. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members dikman Posted 11 hours ago Members Report Posted 11 hours ago (edited) Finished off the last of the dies for the four pieces that my mate is cutting out (he has been getting orders from a Single Action shooting club for suspenders that he makes and cutting them by hand is getting tedious). The dies aren't perfectly uniform but a little bit of sanding/trimming of the leather pieces should fix that. I used some "pretend" leather that I salvaged from my old Triumph saddlebags, not something I would want to use on anything. The Vevor press punched three without any trouble, the larger one took a bit of fiddling as I think I have a pronounced burr on the cutting edge. The press also punched the die fairly deep into the plastic cutting board!! Edited 11 hours ago by dikman Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
toxo Posted 7 hours ago Author Report Posted 7 hours ago 3 hours ago, dikman said: Finished off the last of the dies for the four pieces that my mate is cutting out (he has been getting orders from a Single Action shooting club for suspenders that he makes and cutting them by hand is getting tedious). The dies aren't perfectly uniform but a little bit of sanding/trimming of the leather pieces should fix that. I used some "pretend" leather that I salvaged from my old Triumph saddlebags, not something I would want to use on anything. The Vevor press punched three without any trouble, the larger one took a bit of fiddling as I think I have a pronounced burr on the cutting edge. The press also punched the die fairly deep into the plastic cutting board!! Really great work so far mate and I know this was a request but I ain't having it until I see a handbag. If anyone knows where I can get tiny hollow tube that I can incorporate into my dies to punch rivet/snap type holes at the same time please let us all know cos it won't be long before dikman wants em too. Quote
kgg Posted 7 hours ago Report Posted 7 hours ago 37 minutes ago, toxo said: If anyone knows where I can get tiny hollow tube that I can incorporate into my dies to punch rivet/snap type holes at the same time please let us all know cos it won't be long before dikman wants em too. My something like this may work. If so check out places like Temu. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
toxo Posted 6 hours ago Author Report Posted 6 hours ago 35 minutes ago, kgg said: My something like this may work. If so check out places like Temu. kgg Just a simple rivet size tube needed Keith. Where my dies have a wood core it would be simple to just drill a hole and glue a tube in to save working out where to punch every time. Quote
kgg Posted 5 hours ago Report Posted 5 hours ago 51 minutes ago, toxo said: Just a simple rivet size tube needed Keith. Maybe some stainless steel capillary tubing as it comes in some real same sizes??? kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
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