Members INSMNYK Posted Tuesday at 10:56 PM Members Report Posted Tuesday at 10:56 PM I'm starting a resto-mod on a vintage leather bag. I've got a test piece to the color and finish I'm looking for. At least until I remembered that I wanted to add Mink Oil to keep the wet out as much as possible. I know it will likely turn the end result darker, and I'm fine with that. At what stage do I add a couple thin layers of mink oil? To get to where I am now, I've deglazed, foam scrubbed, 3-4 light coats of Angelus Ox Blood, a couple light coats of Red shoe polish. The leather is fairly solid veg-tan. Quote
Members Dwight Posted Tuesday at 11:35 PM Members Report Posted Tuesday at 11:35 PM You should never put shoe polish on before any kind of oil. It can block the oil from penetrating. But since you have already done it . . . go for it. I ALWAYS . . . oil before I even think of dyeing or stamping . . . and I use just a light coat of neatsfoot oil. For me it has been THE thing that makes my dye jobs much more even. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
kgg Posted yesterday at 01:01 AM Report Posted yesterday at 01:01 AM 2 hours ago, INSMNYK said: At what stage do I add a couple thin layers of mink oil? To get to where I am now, I've deglazed, foam scrubbed, 3-4 light coats of Angelus Ox Blood, a couple light coats of Red shoe polish. 1 hour ago, Dwight said: You should never put shoe polish on before any kind of oil. It can block the oil from penetrating. But since you have already done it . . . go for it. I ALWAYS . . . oil before I even think of dyeing or stamping . . . and I use just a light coat of neatsfoot oil. For me it has been THE thing that makes my dye jobs much more even. I agree the only thing I do different is I use 100 % pure organic JOJOBA oil first then dye then re-oil. I have gotten away from using a dabber, sponge, brush and dipping for the dying process and have converted to airbrushing when dying. I am also experimenting with airbrushing the JOJOBA oil. You may have some success with heating the Red shoe polish with a hair dryer to get it to suck into the leather and then apply the mink oil. I haven't tried this myself so I don't know if it will work. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members INSMNYK Posted yesterday at 02:24 AM Author Members Report Posted yesterday at 02:24 AM The picture is actually a test piece. I started by trying to get the color right and I realised I was skipping a step. I do have an airbrush that I can use for dying the main bag. I'll dig it out and test settings to get decent coverage. So, if I'm understanding correctly, after the cleaning steps: Dye, Mink Oil, Wax? Or Mink Oil, Dye, Wax? Letting the whole thing rest in between thin coats for at least a day each. I know that my combo of stuff may/may not be the perfect recipe but it's what I'm most familiar with and what I have on hand. Quote
kgg Posted yesterday at 03:08 AM Report Posted yesterday at 03:08 AM 43 minutes ago, INSMNYK said: So, if I'm understanding correctly, after the cleaning steps: Dye, Mink Oil, Wax? Or Mink Oil, Dye, Wax? My way would be: i) Oil ii) Dye iii) Oil 43 minutes ago, INSMNYK said: Letting the whole thing rest in between thin coats for at least a day each. I know that my combo of stuff may/may not be the perfect recipe but it's what I'm most familiar with and what I have on hand. What I would do is: i) oil the leather as evenly as possible and let it rest for 24 hrs or so to get absorbed evenly. ii) Mix the dye with 50 % thinner and 50 % dye as a good starting point. I use 99% Rubbing Alcohol with Fiebing's Dye iii) Airbrush the dye on in thin coats to get an even coating and let sit for 24 hrs. iv) Oil again Note: i) I am not sure how mink oil will work as I don't use it so you should experiment on some scrape first. ii) If you have some black dye and want to darken the Angelus Ox Blood up a shape or two try adding about 2 to 5 % Black to the dye mix before adding thinner. Once again experiment on some scrape first. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members BlackDragon Posted 20 hours ago Members Report Posted 20 hours ago Quick note on airbrushing with ANY type of oil. Use a respirator because oils, when atomized, can cause lung issues. When I dye it's oil, dye, buff, finish. I oil with neatsfoot oil and let it sit until the oil is absorbed. How long it sits depends on the thickness of the leather. This allows the dye to spread evenly when applied. I then dye and let it sit for a day so the dye has time to spread evenly. I then buff any excess dye off. I then add my finish, usually Resolene diluted with water 50/50 or a wax. Quote
Northmount Posted 20 hours ago Report Posted 20 hours ago 15 hours ago, INSMNYK said: At what stage do I add a couple thin layers of mink oil? I moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners. Quote
Members INSMNYK Posted 18 hours ago Author Members Report Posted 18 hours ago 1 hour ago, Northmount said: I moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners. OK, Thanks. I'm still exploring and hadn't even seen that section yet. Quote
Members INSMNYK Posted 18 hours ago Author Members Report Posted 18 hours ago Thanks for all the tips, folks. I appreciate it. I'm used to just dealing with work boots and combat boots. Those just needed a couple coats of mink oil over a week or so, then polish as necessary. This is the first item I need to even consider where dye should fit into the mix and will anything I do before or after might drastically change the outcome. Quote
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