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Posted

So I have typically finished pieces with antiquing and Resoline. Now, I am doing some purses and bags where I think there will be too much wear on the Resoline finish to stand up well over time. Right or wrong?

I like dying, oiling, and almost always antiquing. Before antique I use Pro Resist. So, how to get to a wax finish instead… and is that the way to go?

Thought?

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Posted

I'm wearing a 20+ year old belt . . . 1/4 inch thick . . . 2 ply . . . 

It has been on my body for just about every one of those days . . . 

The resolene finish is still on there.

Not really sure that there is a more durable finish . . . but it does make the product stiffer . . . 

Oiled leather always looks good . . . but it can get buffed up and beat up pretty quick . . . and there is no wax that will do much more than a couple months as far as protection.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

Posted
16 hours ago, Cactusman said:

I have typically finished pieces with antiquing and Resoline. Now, I am doing some purses and bags where I think there will be too much wear on the Resoline finish to stand up well over time. Right or wrong?

I moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.

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Posted

I just retired* a 20 year old belt. Thinner than Dwight's, about 3.5mm. Not used every day but often. The resolene finish coat was still alright

* retired cos I wanted a change in pattern on the belt

imo, leather items should show some wear and change in colouring over time. Its what makes leather so unique

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

Posted

I have never made a purse but just thinking about it, I think I would use neutral shoe polish. I use neutral shoe polish on my holsters. It's something that the end user could easily replenish and without damaging anything. I wouldn't use Resolene on dress shoes.

Nick

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Posted
2 hours ago, wizard of tragacanth said:

I have never made a purse but just thinking about it, I think I would use neutral shoe polish. I use neutral shoe polish on my holsters. It's something that the end user could easily replenish and without damaging anything. I wouldn't use Resolene on dress shoes.

If you were in the military . . . Resolene and dress shoes would be a  gift from heaven.  Super polish them guys . . . about 6 or 8 coats or resolene . . . you have a pair of inspection shoes that need only to be put back in their protective white socks . . . to await the next inspection.

Didn't have it when I was in the Navy . . . had to do it the hard way.

And I would probably bring the holster back to you within about a week.  Neutral or any other shoe polish has no ability at all to protect the leather item.  Rubbing up against a wall . . . gate . . . laying on the ground . . . the leather will look like it was found on the beach at Normandy.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

  • 1 month later...
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Posted
On 9/14/2025 at 4:07 PM, Dwight said:

I'm wearing a 20+ year old belt . . . 1/4 inch thick . . . 2 ply . . . 

It has been on my body for just about every one of those days . . . 

The resolene finish is still on there.

Not really sure that there is a more durable finish . . . but it does make the product stiffer . . . 

Oiled leather always looks good . . . but it can get buffed up and beat up pretty quick . . . and there is no wax that will do much more than a couple months as far as protection.

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight, since you seem to know what you’re doing, I made the dummy move of using Fiebing’s regular dye instead of the pro dye for a purse, and I’m paranoid about rub off because of my mistake. Aside from a final coat of Pro Resist, is there something I can do to avoid the rub off?

Also, because I went to the extra step of dying the interior/flesh side, what can I do to seal it? (Primarily concerned if it got wet…)

— AZR

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Posted
59 minutes ago, ThisIsMyFirstRodeo said:

Dwight, since you seem to know what you’re doing, I made the dummy move of using Fiebing’s regular dye instead of the pro dye for a purse, and I’m paranoid about rub off because of my mistake. Aside from a final coat of Pro Resist, is there something I can do to avoid the rub off?

Also, because I went to the extra step of dying the interior/flesh side, what can I do to seal it? (Primarily concerned if it got wet…)

— AZR

I have never used Pro Resist . . . so I cannot tell you what will happen.

All the purses I have ever done either get ONLY an oiled finish . . . or I give them a coat of Resolene . . . 50 / 50 diluted with water.  I do that inside and out . . . unless there is some kind of liner inside.

My buddy at Tandy said the rub off is probably from the antiquing . . . so you would have to cover the antiquing with either another coat of Pro Resist . . . or Resolene.  I've never had any rub off after the Resolene treatment . . . and no dye separation when it gets wet.

Find a piece of scrap . . . re-do it to match what your project has done on it . . . then mess with the Resolene or Pro Resist.

That's what I would do.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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