Members paintpony7417 Posted yesterday at 10:08 PM Members Report Posted yesterday at 10:08 PM Hi all, I have a few beginner questions regarding leather type and dying.... I want to make another headstall for my horse, but I am stuck on a few things. 1. What is the best type of leather for a headstall? I was thinking veg tan as that's what I used last time and I want to add basic stamps and tooling, but I don't like how stiff it is. Is there a way to soften veg tan leather to make it softer and more pliable? 2. I want to try and match the color to my saddle (pictured). I know this is kind of a loaded question, but what would be the best way to achieve a similar color? I have used tandy dyes (on veg tan leather) in the past but no matter how many finishes I apply the dye still rubs off on surfaces from time to time. Any help would be greatly appreciated! This is the saddle I'm hoping to color match my project to. Quote
CFM chuck123wapati Posted 23 hours ago CFM Report Posted 23 hours ago Neet's foot oil will soften and darken your leather. You can apply some, let it set for a day, and see if it needs more. Take a piece of the leather, make a strap, and test it, then match your color. The sun will also darken it somewhat with time. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
Members BlackDragon Posted 20 hours ago Members Report Posted 20 hours ago Like Chuck said neatsfoot oil will soften and darken. Adding to much oil can turn your leather into oily mush, so take it slow. Do a few test pieces from the same leather you'll be making the headstall. The dye looks to be Fiebings Pro dye in dark brown When I do a vegtan headstall I tool it then add pure neatsfoot oil, you dont need a lot just enough to dampen the leather. I let it set in for a few hours then apply dye. The neatsfoot oil will act as a carrier for the dye and help it spread evenly. Let that set for a day. If its still stiff I work the leather a little. I roll it up with the skin side up and again flesh side up, I do this a few times. If it's still stiff add a little more neatsfoot oil. If it's not dark enough add another coat of dye. After dying it a second time it may be stiff. Just work the leather and it should soften. If not add a little more oil. Quote
CFM chuck123wapati Posted 11 hours ago CFM Report Posted 11 hours ago or maybe Bison Brown in eco flo. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
Members Mulesaw Posted 10 hours ago Members Report Posted 10 hours ago @paintpony7417 Neatsfoot oil and sunlight. Daily "wear and tear" will in my experinece quickly darken a piece. Brgds Jonas Quote
Members paintpony7417 Posted 3 hours ago Author Members Report Posted 3 hours ago Thanks everyone! I'll definitely make sure to use neats foot oil. That's probably where I went wrong last time as I just used the leather cream I had on hand, which did not work nearly as well as I had hoped. Do I have to oil both sides of the veg tan or just the grain side? I'll probably use dye as well like BlackDragon mentioned. Another stupid beginner question, but is a finish like tan kote sufficient enough to prevent dye from rubbing off? Or is there a better alternative for tack? I take pretty good care of my leather tack, but I want this headstall to last. Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I have a general idea of what I'm doing so I'm less likely to make a mistake. Quote
Members Goldshot Ron Posted 2 hours ago Members Report Posted 2 hours ago Here's how I would do your project: 5/8" is the standard width, but for stamping you may go 3/4 to and 1" wide. Cut your pieces, case the leather, and do your stamping. Edge and burnish the edges and dye (I'd use dark brown, Fiebings pro dye if possible). Treat with neetsfoot oil (both sides) and let dry. After oil has penetrated, rub it well with a cotton cloth or sheepskin (this enhances your work). Now, punch your holes and assemble. If you oil after punching the holes, the oil will darking the leather around the holes (no real problem, it will level out over time). There is no real value to use a protective coating such as resolene or tancote. Just wipe off the dirt and swet after riding. Quote
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