Members DMH Posted Tuesday at 08:39 PM Members Report Posted Tuesday at 08:39 PM I need help figuring out why the thread keeps snagging and stitches are skipping on one of my needles. Both sides have the same weight thread and needle size, but the left keeps balling up the thread and skipping stitches. I've adjusted the tension multiple times, but it's not getting better. Quote
kgg Posted Tuesday at 09:38 PM Report Posted Tuesday at 09:38 PM (edited) 59 minutes ago, DMH said: I need help figuring out why the thread keeps snagging A couple of questions: i) what size of thread are you using with what size of needle????? 59 minutes ago, DMH said: I've adjusted the tension multiple times, but it's not getting better. ii) Which tension are you adjusting, the top tensions or the bobbin tensions??? iii) To set the bobbin thread tensions are you doing a drop test???? iv) Have you checked all the guides / feed dogs / needle plates to ensure one hasn't got a rough spot??? v) Have you replaced the needles with new ones??? vi) Are the needles going down in the center of the presser feet / feed dog / needle plate??? vii) Needles installed all the way up into the guage and the gauge is set / originated properly??? kgg Edited Tuesday at 09:41 PM by kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members dikman Posted Tuesday at 09:50 PM Members Report Posted Tuesday at 09:50 PM My first thought was a burr somewhere on that side that's catching the thread? Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members DMH Posted Tuesday at 10:05 PM Author Members Report Posted Tuesday at 10:05 PM I'm using tex 80 thread with #20 needle. I've adjusted the top tension I also replaced the needle as soon at it happened, but same result on that left needle I added a video I just took, but of course it worked perfectly when I recorded I'm starting to think it may be the bobbin. That's the only most recent change I can think of. In my other post when I was timing machine you will see I got everything dialed in without any issues until now. Left skip stitch.mp4 Quote
Members nylonRigging Posted yesterday at 12:37 AM Members Report Posted yesterday at 12:37 AM (edited) 2 hours ago, DMH said: I'm using tex 80 thread with #20 needle. I've adjusted the top tension I also replaced the needle as soon at it happened, but same result on that left needle I added a video I just took, but of course it worked perfectly when I recorded I'm starting to think it may be the bobbin. That's the only most recent change I can think of. In my other post when I was timing machine you will see I got everything dialed in without any issues until now. Left skip stitch.mp4 Common with all double needle and the L-Needle side, and That is just the 'nature of the beast' all with Double-Needle machine . You need to use/Buy the best 'bonded' nylon on that double needle . Or buy an opposite twist thread cone for that L-Needle Side . If you use a good quality bonded thread. You can go for quite a while sewing without the L-Needle side doing the Frey/twist problem, but Even If You Have Mechanically perfect machine, Proper thread and Needle size. you still need to keep an eye on the L-side Thread. using Lesser quality thread will just amplify the quickness of the flaw and will just frustrate the hell out of you all day long. I been using double-needles for a Looong time. . edit add: Just change out your thread brand for now . I know it a pain in ass especially if you got a good color code you found and like, and 1 Lb. Cones are expensive when buying a bunch of them for the specific job you doing. but Most people, small shops Never buy opposite Twist for that L-side . Just getting a good quality bonded will do you good job of retarding the L-side problem from happening as much throughout the day, and your work stay quality. also.. Nice. looks like you into working up some custom denim Jean patterns ? . I always thought in back of my mind that if I had not gotten into what I been doing now sewing. That I would have really liked to do a line of custom Jeans. ... LOL . Edited yesterday at 12:58 AM by nylonRigging Quote
Members DMH Posted yesterday at 02:14 AM Author Members Report Posted yesterday at 02:14 AM @nylonRigging thanks for the information. Is this an issue with all double needle machines or just the Singers and their clones. I have a double needle Union Special that's going to be my next addition to my workshop once I get this 112w working properly and consistent. But that was going to be setup as a waistband machine. Maybe Juki has a double needle without this flaw. I really appreciate the knowledge, most people would of kept that to themselves or may not have been aware of it. I can find a way to use that flaw to my advantage. I'm thinking of just using a different thread and color for the left side and make it a signature of my jeans and jackets. My next step was to use a seam folder with this machine, but that may be to ambitious. Maybe one day I can make you a pair. Thanks again for the help. Quote
Members DMH Posted yesterday at 02:16 AM Author Members Report Posted yesterday at 02:16 AM @dikman that's one of the possible causes that ChatGPT mentioned may be the issue. Quote
Members councilman24 Posted yesterday at 03:19 AM Members Report Posted yesterday at 03:19 AM Tension has nothing to do with skipping stitches. When the event of stitching a skip occurs the top tension has been released by the take up arm coming down. That thread does not look like sewing machine thread. The fibers stitcking out makes it look like twine. Remember each point on the thread goes back and forth through the eye of the needle 10, 15, 20 times depending on the stitch length. As the hook pulls top thread around the bobbin and the take up lever pulls it back, leaving only the length of a single stitch behind. And depending on the speed your stitching and the amount of thread pulled through the eye it can be moving 20 to 30 miles per hour. Reversing back and forth for every stitch. Exactly what is that thread? Sewing machine thread usually isn't T80. If you want to keep trying that thread go to a 22 or 23 size needle. But first I'd get it working with right twist bonded nylon T70 thread. Yes the left needle should use right twist thread but unless your a factory buying it by the pallet load it is rare and only available usually in white and black. Most of us manage to get left twist bonded thread to work on the left needle. Quote
Members nylonRigging Posted yesterday at 07:55 AM Members Report Posted yesterday at 07:55 AM 5 hours ago, DMH said: Maybe Juki has a double needle without this flaw. I have also a Juki ( mdl. LH-3528A ) that is double-needle, needle-feed like the old Singers 112/212 . I dont know of any other double-needles different than this design with both Vert. shaft bobbins moving spin same 'clockwise' direction . It possible ? and don't know if another machine is designed different ? . . also don't know ? But if there is a Double-Needle machine models with Bobbin Assemblies that spin in 'opposing directions', rather than both 'clockwise' that it might counter the L-needle problem of compromising the thread Bond over time stitching. 4 hours ago, councilman24 said: That thread does not look like sewing machine thread. The fibers stitcking out makes it look like twine. He is right. that thread looks pretty crappy on that close-up Pic. most definitely there better choices for quality and stronger better twist bond to take abuse of the L-needle . . Quote
Members nejcek74 Posted yesterday at 07:59 AM Members Report Posted yesterday at 07:59 AM Threads used for authentic denim construction are either a cotton and polyester blend or pure cotton. You may need to use a larger needle. While the L-twist seems the most likely cause, you should also check that the distance from the hook to the left and right needles is consistent. Quote
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