Cementing leather during holster assembly

[UncleGeorge]

Seeing UG's post here reminded me that I needed to give an update on my use of Titebond III glue and it's application on leather. It now being ~4 months since my assembly of a pocket holster for a Colt Government .380, I took the holster and was able to easily (for me) pull the holster apart where it had been glued together. The glued area was approximately 1" wide by 2.5" high. This further testing, beyond what my previous experiences had been with wood glues on leather, shows me that my earlier comments are substantiated. YMMV.

Gee your right. Got my original all-glued holster out and dang if I couldn't pull it apart in some places just as you say. It did pull the leather grain apart as it had soaked in substantially. Good thing during my 19 years of carrying it in my hip pocket I didn't get the notion to pull it apart. That's why I glue and stitch my holsters now, 'ncase someone gets the urge to pull it apart.

Carrying little lightweight mouse guns in your pocket dudden put much stress on the holster as the pocket is really holding the gun. Guess that's why mine lasted so long.

[pancho47]

that settles it elmers it is

[Shorts]

In general it is good to see just how one's gear handles any and all types of stresses. Use what you want to use. As Kevin said, YMMV when it comes to using products. Even the water in ones location can affect your leather when molding. So, anything and everything affects how one's gear will behave.

Pulling apart a pocket holster to test the glue may not matter if all you're making is pocket holsters. But when one makes a variety leather gear not just associated with concealed carry, gear that sees different work stresses in the outdoors maybe around very large powerful animals, then yes pulling it apart matters.

If you don't test it, it may very well fail at the wrong time. Your customer will either call your stuff junk or will say 'wow, look how much it took'.

[Bronson]

I've been using the PVA Tanner's Bond because in the quantity I buy it's actually the best price/oz. Once it's fully cured I have to use two pairs of pliers to pull the leather apart, and it's still not what I would call "easy". I can also thin it with water and it doesn't stink.

Bronson

[Jared]

I wanted to say thanks to both Ian and twin oaks. As the glue question seemed similar enough.. but to me the idea wasn't just to hold for stitching. To me the stitching was secondary, and meant to hold that extra little bit. I would like to agree with a few who responded to the fact that if the glue isn't good enough to hold your edges will turn out like crap. Maybe not right away but after a few uses. I abuse my things in testing, training, and just over all playing with my pistols. While I don't expect it to look brand new forever, I do expect certain traits to hold up. Edging, because I don't want it catching, and I don't want to start tearing the thing apart, and the abuse I put things through will tear stitching alone. Forming, I need my gun formed well. So that no matter if I lay on the holster with or without the gun in it, that I know my gun will still fit back. Comfort, mostly due to the obvious. I carry constantly, have carried for 40hrs straight before.. while not 100% comfortable after about 10 hrs.. I was in no severe pain. Driving for 10-20 hrs sucks with ccw... just because you aren't moving, standing. Finally finish. Again since I put my guns through everything I want them to hold up. Rolling in rocks will destroy, kydex, fobes.. you name it. My holster has a very small insignificant scratch from 8 hrs abuse.. the fobes is mangled. Having said all of that, I do realize that a lot of people in here have different needs, and what works for some won't work for others.. just do to useage. I was of the opinion that contact cement would be similar so long as it wasn't water soluble.

Lobo, my carry conceal holster is shark. By that I don't mean accented with shark, I mean the full gun covering is shark. I've had it for a few years, and through the 8 hr shoot it finally got a scratch. one rock pressed into it hard enough that it looked like you took your fingernail to dry leather. That isn't much, in fact I had to examine it very closely to find it. Thats from being dove on, rolled on, gun in, gun out, the wrong gun in the holster, sweat, soda, and anything else you can imagine.

The reason I say this is that shark in and of itself is beyond compare when you look at the abuse it will take and retain not only shape but new looking qualities. The added comment here would be that I would think an accent in a ccw would work the exact way as my full frontal shark. So long as the leather is tougher I would want it. Looks, yeah looks aren't going to matter as it is inside my shirt, and the only time someone will see it is if I want to show it off.. but if it increases the life, and wear of my holster then I'm all for it. Even IWB for fit is going to have a little leather visible, and thus open to wear and tear. Seatbelts.. wow that can scratch the finish of a gun even through a shirt. So if it adds a showmanship quality, and is a proven function I can see where its not only worth doing, but reasonable to want that extra bit. I carry H&K for that very reason.. do I need the special polymer, or the fact that my gun will shoot with a bullet lodged in the barrel, and then still hold a better grouping than a lot of guns from factory.. maybe not.. but its something that gives me added reassurance. I feel like the H&K will go through a lot more than my SR9 but the sr9s profile is just too awesome for a fullsize gun.

Edited August 11, 2009 by Jared