ArtS Report post Posted April 16, 2009 On one of the other posts were were talking about Tandy tools and the chrome spoiling the impression. Someone mentioned burning off the chrome. My first question is - how do you burn it off? My second question - is that the best way to remove the chrome? Thanks, Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted April 16, 2009 (edited) On one of the other posts were were talking about Tandy tools and the chrome spoiling the impression. Someone mentioned burning off the chrome. My first question is - how do you burn it off? My second question - is that the best way to remove the chrome? Thanks, Art I asked Peter Main this question a while back and he said that he heats them up with a mini torch til cherry red (in a vise of course), and then wire brushes the chrome off, then cool in water. He also said that he doesn't trust the newer craftools to do this with, cause he doesn't know what they are made with. Edited April 16, 2009 by Rawhide Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NoahL Report post Posted April 16, 2009 Unless you have a well-ventilated area in which to attempt this, I wouldn't try it. In my adventures into bladesmithing, I learned of a very dangerous, and sometimes deadly condition known as "forge fever". If you heat up stainless/galvanized steel without proper ventilation, the gasses released can induce this illness. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChuckBurrows Report post Posted April 16, 2009 You can soak in muriatic acid (aka hydrochloric) for a while and it will dissolve the chrome (when first doing this keep a close eye - check every 15 minutes - too long and the tool can be damaged). Do this in a VERY WELL ventilated area and DO NOT breath the fumes. I do this outside with a fan blowing the fumes away along with a good painters mask - get the proper filters.....with proper precautions it is safe and sane....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbird Report post Posted April 16, 2009 Well I can I agree with Noah I just spent all day over my forge and the fumes can be bad. Josh Unless you have a well-ventilated area in which to attempt this, I wouldn't try it. In my adventures into bladesmithing, I learned of a very dangerous, and sometimes deadly condition known as "forge fever". If you heat up stainless/galvanized steel without proper ventilation, the gasses released can induce this illness. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted April 16, 2009 You can soak in muriatic acid (aka hydrochloric) for a while and it will dissolve the chrome (when first doing this keep a close eye - check every 15 minutes - too long and the tool can be damaged). Do this in a VERY WELL ventilated area and DO NOT breath the fumes. I do this outside with a fan blowing the fumes away along with a good painters mask - get the proper filters.....with proper precautions it is safe and sane....... Is muriatic acid what is otherwise known as soldering fluid? Tony. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted April 16, 2009 The best and safest way without a doubt, is to take them to your nearest electroplating company and have them 'unplated'. Basically reverse the chrome plating process. Badger Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mendedbowl Report post Posted April 16, 2009 just buying better tools is beginning to look cheaper (and safer) all the time. those of you who have removed chrome from the cheaper tools...were the final results worth the effort? ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted April 16, 2009 just buying better tools is beginning to look cheaper (and safer) all the time.those of you who have removed chrome from the cheaper tools...were the final results worth the effort? ken I've used the propane torch/steel brush method on some Craftools I bought a few years ago (2004 or so). It did improve the clarity of the impression it made, somewhat. The tradeoff is, the underlying metal is quite soft, so heavy use will eventually cause the face of the tool to lose its shape over time. I'll have to replace the ones I removed the chrome from sooner than the ones I didn't. In the long run, it's probably better to leave the plate on. Kate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
King's X Report post Posted April 16, 2009 I know that my novice opinion does not mean much in world circles, but I have been using my crafttools for the past 2 years since I started this craft. For me I wanted to get things right before I spent a whole lot of money on equipment. Plus the buy one get one was not a bad deal when it comes to building up your tools. I have progressed in my new hobby and now I am trading out my crafttools for better made tools like Ellis Barnes and Barry King. But I go into buying these tools with the knowledge of what I am looking for not just "I want that one" and "I want this one." I would suggest you either work with what you got (crafttools) and then progress to better tools as times goes by or if you're rich, buy them all. I don't have the experience or knowledge to even attempt anything you have guys (& ladies) have suggested here. I would be the one that you would read about in tomorrows paper.....Man dies after trying to remove chrome. But, I will close this reply with "you get what you pay for!" Good luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted April 16, 2009 Is muriatic acid what is otherwise known as soldering fluid?Tony. No Soldering fluid is usually a blend of various chemicals. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid (HCL) or ordinary swimming pool acid. It is very powerful acid especially in more concentrated forms. Treat it with a lot of respect. It got the name "muriatic" because it was made from salt and sulfuric acid back in the old days. BTW Sulfuric acid is also pretty darn dangerous so treat them all with respect. A little mistake with these acids can be life-changing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted April 17, 2009 You can buy Muratic acid at any store that sells bricks for fireplaces and such. The acid is used to clean the brick after they are set. Sulfuric acid in low concentration: battery acid in your car's battery. Oh, . . . and Bree has some good advice on both of them, . . . they will mess you up if you make a mistake, . . . always wear eye protection using them, . . . goggles if you have them, . . . rubber (not plastic, . . . RUBBER gloves), . . . and for what it is worth, . . . wear a pair of jeans you don't want any more. Either of them dropped on denim will make them look like swiss cheese after they are washed (well learned advice from an old Navy battery electrician). May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted April 17, 2009 Thanks yawl! I think I'll leave well enough alone! LOL Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildland Report post Posted April 17, 2009 I thought I would try removing the chrome from one of my craftool stamps this morning and just wanted to share the result with everyone. The silver blob on the vice is what is left of the head of the stamp. Apparently it was made from pewter. All I used on it was a cheap propane torch that barely melts solder. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jettrash Report post Posted April 17, 2009 Wow! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Suze Report post Posted April 17, 2009 oops Well the rest of us now know how NOT to try this.... sorry about your stamp Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildland Report post Posted April 17, 2009 It wasn't a big loss. When craftool says that their cheaper tools are made from a softer metal they aren't kidding. I always thought it meant a cheaper grade of steal, but apparently it means lead and tin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChuckBurrows Report post Posted April 18, 2009 more likely zinc - the same thing they cast their cuckles from - I doubt if therr is a pewter alloy that would hold up to the pounding we give the tools.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted April 18, 2009 Ouch! Thanks for being the Guinea pig! Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swivelsphinx Report post Posted December 27, 2011 You know, I've tried a variety of methods to get the chrome plating off of my pictorial stamps. I find that "weak acids" work well. While I can be impatient, slower is better- you can monitor the progress of the removal without having to worry about dissolving the softer metal underneath the chrome. I use straight white vinegar with ordinary salt at room temperature... about a teaspoon per half cup. Over night (that's 6-8 hours for me) I can see the chrome clearly peeled or in the process of peeling. I'll scrub the pieces down with a little baking soda or baking soda toothpaste. If I see real shiny spots, I rinse the tools off, and chuck 'em back in the solution. I've done this solution hot on the stove, and it works a little *too* fast- I worry about metal loss. Once I feel the chrome is removed, I rinse in baking soda and water, scrub in dish soap then air dry. I found that Rain-X was an excellent product to protect the stamps without interfering with my unfinished leathers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
