Top stitching belts and straps

[UKRay]

My lovely new Highlead sewing machine is now in place, complete with its shiny new silent servo motor, just waiting for me to get my act together enough to use it properly. I'd like to be able to top stitch belts and straps but find myself drifting away from the edge as I stitch up the length of the belt.

I'm currently using my fingers as a guide but I wonder if I should bite the bullet and spend the money on a roller guide to make the job easier. Can anyone tell me how to use one of these things and has anyone got any other tips for me on keeping the stitching straight.

And yes, Luke. I am going to practice a lot!

[HarryB]

Hey, UK, Practice, Practice, Practice. No, really; the edge guide will help tremendously regardless of how much you practice. Go ahead and get one. A little off topic, but I realized when I read your post what I don't like about the servo motors: they are silent! My mother was a tailor and sat at her loyal old Singer 31-15 machine for 10 - 12 hours a day. I'm sure I heard the whir and purr of the motor even before I was born. Thing is now some almost 60 years later, I'm still sewing on that same machine. I think the whir of the motor is probably calming when I screw something up! Good luck with your stitch guide.

[celticleather]

I have a roller guide on my Tippmann, and it works very well. On my other machines I usually just use a Yale-type key, taped to the arm with masking tape. I put the needle through a piece of scrap leather at the appropriate distance from the edge, slide the rounded end of the key up against it, and secure in place with a couple of wraps around the arm. I don't use the Yale key for any particular reason . . . we just have lots of them laying around, and they're about the right thickness!

[hidepounder]

It just takes practice, Ray. I encourage people to get the guide, however, I don't use them. I wanted to be able control the stitching freehand and practiced to the point that I can now do that. When stitching a long straight run I have learned to position my fingers on the machine to act as a guide and this has served me very well. I also took the needle presser foot off...ground the nose off so I could see the needle penetrate the leather and that made a big difference for me.

Have fun!

Bob

[DJ1935]

Hi Ray, we got our new 441 about a month ago and it came with an edge guide which is almost the same as the one on the #6 Pearson - indespensible for long straps and neat edges around curves. My question is how do you prevent that mesmerising "white line fever" effect when you do long straps?

Harry's right about the silent motor - its' eerie and dangerous if the machine was left on and unattended for some reason - phone rings, neighbour turns up etc etc and a child or pet steps on the pedal. Thankfully we have neither to worry about but a light wired into the switch would be a great assistance in knowing the machine was on or not.

Happy sewing

DJ

[Luke Hatley]

DJ1935.....in the John Bianchi holster video he sugest painting the center foot RED

I DID and i can keep an eye on the sewing much better.

on my servo motor i have a swichbox wired in and with the on-off switch there is a light.

that lets you know when it is on.

[5shot]

I use the guide on belts, as it allows you to use both hands if needed. If you use your finger as the guide (which does work quite well), that hand is stuck there for the duration.

[esantoro]

I use the guide for straps.

On everything else I crease a stitch line in case I need to move the guide away and eyeball it.

Red paint on the center foot sounds like a good idea.

ed

[Suze]

I use the guide for straps.

On everything else I crease a stitch line in case I need to move the guide away and eyeball it.

Red paint on the center foot sounds like a good idea.

ed

what -- you don't have a fancy dancy gaget for that too

[barra]

It just takes practice, Ray. I encourage people to get the guide, however, I don't use them. I wanted to be able control the stitching freehand and practiced to the point that I can now do that. When stitching a long straight run I have learned to position my fingers on the machine to act as a guide and this has served me very well. I also took the needle presser foot off...ground the nose off so I could see the needle penetrate the leather and that made a big difference for me.

Have fun!

Bob

I'm with Bob here. What works for one individual may not work for another. When teaching sewing, we would give the students a couple of methods and let them choose or develop their own methods. For me I don't use a guide. If I am stitching into a grooved/raced channel I forget the foot exists and concentrate on the needle. If I am sewing a seam I position my foot at my desired seam allowance from the edge and when sewing I keep the edge of the foot at that distance from the edge. It does take practice and comes together eventually like muscle memory. I think a dob of paint would assist as a guide.

Also when I sew as soon as I sit at the machine I push my heal onto the base of the pedal (brake). I never apply pressure to the top of the pedal until I am darn sure I want to commence sewing. As soon as I have stopped a run, the heal goes back to the brake. This has become a drill and I don't even think about doing it (saves oopsies).

Also when teaching we would make it a drill that as soon as stitching had stopped the students were made to turn off and dissipate power. I never dissipate power now but we had to teach it due to the PC OCC health and safety world we live in.

Barra

Barra