Members Blevins60 Posted September 17, 2013 Members Report Posted September 17, 2013 Hidepounder You are right on the process, I have used that process on Belts, Holsters and boots. Dan Quote
badLoveLeather Posted September 27, 2013 Report Posted September 27, 2013 Funny, this info is over 4 years old and its priceless to me. I'm not gonna waste the money on that weaver machine now! Quote
Members samcolt45 Posted October 30, 2013 Members Report Posted October 30, 2013 I've been following this awesome and informative thread for quite a while. My burnished edges are noticeably better. I primarily use Hidepounder's method with a Foredom Moro tool and wood burnishers. Some members reference using a rub stick. Is this before, during or after burnishing? Samcolt45 Quote
Members Leprechaunleather Posted February 13, 2014 Members Report Posted February 13, 2014 thanks guys ! and here was me rubbing a wooden burnishing too on it and all i was getting is resistance , i brought it to a buffing wheel and it worked wonders Quote https://www.etsy.com/ca/people/leprechaunleather1freedom is a right not a privilege
Members Rayban Posted April 13, 2014 Members Report Posted April 13, 2014 (edited) After following hidepounders instructions (post #6) just about to the letter.....I realized the glycerine/canvass wheel step is what was missing and keeping me from getting the edges that I was after.....now that I've added that step in my process, I'm happy with my edges. I still like rubbing the edges with my cocobolo sticks prior to the final finish........ Thanks hidepounder! Edited April 13, 2014 by Rayban Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
Members Piedmont Posted July 11, 2014 Members Report Posted July 11, 2014 Love this thread, thought I'd keep it alive.. But the edge coat or dye.. I'm having a heck of a time getting a straight line.. I burnish and then dye/coat, but there are usually little hiccups here and there.. I've used a sponge, and then I just recently got this table top dyeing wheel from Tandy that works ok.. heck I've even tried taping off the leather to get a good edge but that's no good either.. Any tips out there? Thanks Todd Quote NATO Watch Straps by Piedmont Red
Members Red Cent Posted July 11, 2014 Members Report Posted July 11, 2014 No coffee or alcohol. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members billybopp Posted July 11, 2014 Members Report Posted July 11, 2014 I can only avoid those long enough to not cut myself when cutting, Red. Otherwise, wavy edges be damned!! Bill Quote
Members snubbyfan Posted November 6, 2014 Members Report Posted November 6, 2014 (edited) Since my last post on this thread, I've changed my edge work a little. I've also worked on my picture takin' too. After the holster's tooled, dyed, molded, contact cemented and before stitching, I do my edge work. First I sand it with a sanding drum chucked in my drill press, then it's bevel, wet, burnish, let the edge dry then gum trag, burnish, let it dry then gum trag and burnish again. After that dries, I do the stitchin', top coat then burnish the edge one more time. I'm pleased with how it turned out. I do all my burnishing by hand. Edited November 6, 2014 by snubbyfan Quote Keep on Chooglin'Check out my YouTube Channel, comment and subscribe for updateshttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOM3hbruUKHov9kquIxXKlA
hidepounder Posted November 7, 2014 Report Posted November 7, 2014 Weaver used to sell the machine with a cordura sleeve on a foam padded drum. I used to use that drum to apply parafin to my edges after I burnished with soap. Now I use a cocobolo wheel on a dremel to work in the parafin. The newer Weaver machines have a sanding drum on that side now, but I believe the cordura drums are still available. Quote
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