bikermutt07 Report post Posted January 4, 2017 On 12/11/2010 at 9:56 AM, pete said: Has ANYONE tried my method of treating the edge with just Feibing's antique(paste)? I sand, edge, and apply the paste, then rub with just a canvas. The paste soaks in, lubricates as I rub, and dries in seconds to a really nice finish. I quit using dye (NEVER liked edge-coat) ANYONE??? pete I know this is a really old post but I'm gonna try it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDNSLOW Report post Posted January 4, 2017 I started to use Edge Flex which is actually made by Fenice out of Italy, once it is applied I let it dry then crank out a heat iron. the heat iron I found is like the one that is sold at hobby lobby and had a rheostat for adjusting the heat, I then go over the edges to smooth out any rough areas, and it works like a charm, I felt that edge coat sucked as well and wont use it, it is either burnish or edge flex. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 4, 2017 I simply burnish well, . . . apply the Resolene finish, . . . and I virtually never have any problems with my edges. But then again, . . . I always believed in the KISS formula for work............Keep It Simple Stupid. Works for me. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted January 4, 2017 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Dwight said: I simply burnish well, . . . apply the Resolene finish, . . . and I virtually never have any problems with my edges. But then again, . . . I always believed in the KISS formula for work............Keep It Simple Stupid. Works for me. May God bless, Dwight I'm with you, cept I use balm/atom wax. Good sanding is the key IMO. Edited January 4, 2017 by Rayban Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted January 4, 2017 I bought some of that antique paste the other day on a whim in Mahogany. If it's as easy as Pete makes it out to be, it's worth a try on some scrap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davm Report post Posted August 31, 2018 On the dye, any tips on keeping such a straight line on the edge? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted August 31, 2018 2 hours ago, Davm said: On the dye, any tips on keeping such a straight line on the edge? Practice, . . . practice, . . . practice. Use old scrap leather pieces, . . . practice on them and pitch them. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Professor Report post Posted October 20, 2019 My two cents on this old thread. First few holsters and sheathes I made i used the old timer method of applying egg white and burnishing by hand with the rounded corner of a wooden belt stripper or a dowel rod. Bone is another option. That works surprisingly well , at least when you want a rustic and natural looking finished piece. If the result doesn't suit your tastes its easy to go over it with a commercial edge dressing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sbrownn Report post Posted December 2, 2019 On 1/4/2017 at 11:45 AM, bikermutt07 said: I know this is a really old post but I'm gonna try it. I do something similar but I always try not to sand. The nicest edge for me seems to occur right after the knife cut so I cut, bevel and burnish. Sanding for me just raises a bunch of fibers up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sbrownn Report post Posted October 28, 2020 I never, ever sand leather. Sanding raises fibers which then have to be dealt with. I find that if I use a sharp knife to do the final edge cut and a sharp edger to finish off the edges no sanding is necessary. In fact sanding ruins the nice cut edges. For final steps I finish off with Tokonole, a dremel burnish and a final hand rub with canvas and liquid wax. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1961Mike Report post Posted February 9, 2021 Hi I have had to sand the last two belts that I made on the flesh side because they were so rough. Sanding in one direction worked well. I'm relatively new at this sport, but I found out yesterday that using cheap leather can lead to interesting problems. I found a soft spot in the leather and you can't burnish a soft spot. This was 6-7 thick leather. This was for a practice piece, so I"m not that concerned. later Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davm Report post Posted April 1, 2021 I'm always unhappy with my edges. Couple of questions. One dying the edge- I take my time but how do the rest of you get an even, straight line? My belts are coming along pretty good now but the holsters are still tough. On the wood wheels under power- it seems most go that route and I think I'll do that as well. I take it from others that they are looking for a machine to give them a perfect job but is edging a task accomplished by machine or is it a task that simply requires an artistic touch? On a wood wheel- how do you keep canvas in place? Thanks to all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sbrownn Report post Posted April 2, 2021 9 hours ago, Davm said: I'm always unhappy with my edges. Couple of questions. One dying the edge- I take my time but how do the rest of you get an even, straight line? My belts are coming along pretty good now but the holsters are still tough. On the wood wheels under power- it seems most go that route and I think I'll do that as well. I take it from others that they are looking for a machine to give them a perfect job but is edging a task accomplished by machine or is it a task that simply requires an artistic touch? On a wood wheel- how do you keep canvas in place? Thanks to all. I've almost completely quit dying edges at all. I think that slicked and polished undyed edges are quite appealing. That's not to say that some of the dyed and polished edges aren't very pretty, because they are but why cover up the "natural" look of the leather? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites