my handsewing technique

[Monticore]

i learned my hand sewing from online tutorials but i don't seem to be getting the finish i want.

i might be the prsssure i use ot technique but my back side looks like this,

but i want it to looks like this

pic borrowed

[Rayban]

i learned my hand sewing from online tutorials but i don't seem to be getting the finish i want.

i might be the prsssure i use ot technique but my back side looks like this,

but i want it to looks like this

pic borrowed

I would suggest to make sure your awl stabs are at the same angle as you go around the curve....like this ///////////////.......

Also concentrate on the stabs being perpendicular to the surface of the leather....

You seemed to get it right on the right hand side of your picture.....but it looks like you just took your eye off the ball on the left side......

[Rawhide]

They key is absolute consistency. You have to do the exact same thing the exact same way each and every time, or the result will be different.. for instance if you stab a hole and put the left needle in first and the right needle behind the thread in the hole, then you have to do it that way throughout.

My suggestion would be to start with Al Stohlman's, The Art of Handsewing Leather...Hands down the best instruction out there.

[Monticore]

i actualy was using a angled thonging chisel , but i get the same results wheater is use my awl/chisels etc..

the technique i use or i thinbk i am using i got from this online tutorial

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19963

but i don't seem to get the looks other strap makers get , like more sepration between stitches etc..

cory

[Monticore]

i actualy was using a angled thonging chisel , but i get the same results wheater is use my awl/chisels etc..

the technique i use or i thinbk i am using i got from this online tutorial

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19963

but i don't seem to get the looks other strap makers get , like more sepration between stitches etc..

cory

also the bottom picture is borrowed from another maker

[Monticore]

well i just found another tutorial on youtube adn i tired his technique and i am getting the reulst shown in the lower pic, so i guess i was doing wrong/different.

cory

[Echo4V]

could you post a link to that youtube tutorial? I'd like to see it.

Thanks

David

[Rawhide]

First thing,

the second photo in the tutorial you posted shows the angle of the blade incorrectly...The flat of the blade, should be parallel with the edge of the project.

Also, I don't create the knot inside of each hole until the last stitch. I think this is a useless step in each hole, because the next stitch will lock the previous stitch in place and it won't unravel even if the cord breaks.

Otherwise these are fairly good instructions.

[Monticore]

this is the one i looked at , i was making a knot in everyhole which kept me from getting them to sit the way they should.

cory

[RMB Custom Leather]

i learned my hand sewing from online tutorials but i don't seem to be getting the finish i want.

i might be the prsssure i use ot technique but my back side looks like this,

but i want it to looks like this

pic borrowed

Try the rotatory punch to punch holes then sew much easier but does look different.

[Rawhide]

Try the rotatory punch to punch holes then sew much easier but does look different.

I just can't do it...Nothing pains me like seeing/using round holes for sewing. I'm sure there are applications, but nothing looks as nice as using an awl in my opinion.

[Jim]

Let me give you some advice based on a lot of experience with hand sewing . . . put the stitching horse in a corner and hang your hat on it. Then using posterboard, draw a out template for the project your making with the stitch line marked at a suitable distance from the edges. Begin marking your stitch placements from one end (or corner) at 3/16" all the way around.

Use this template to mark the stitch placements on the leather with a scratch awl, pre-punch all the holes, then join the two pieces together and rock and roll. This ensures that all the holes line up with each other so you don't have to punch and sew as you go.

The method I just described was used to sew the holster shown here, so it works!

Need any help, holler at me. I'll be glad to help.

Jim

[Rayban]

I just can't do it...Nothing pains me like seeing/using round holes for sewing. I'm sure there are applications, but nothing looks as nice as using an awl in my opinion.

I understand what you're saying Marlin, but it's one of those things we're just gonna have to learn to live with.....my opinion is that drilling holes is not wrong, and that stabbing with an awl is not the only way......

I've seen "discussions" where some will scoff at the idea of using a stitching machine.....

It's whatever floats your boat....

[TwinOaks]

To me, the best reason (besides looking fantastic) for using an awl instead of a drill or punch is after stitching, the leather will close up around the thread. There's funtionality to this, not just a cosmetic side. When the leather closes up around the stitch, it helps keep out gunk and grit that can wear away the thread. Using machine stitching, there's no prepunched holes. The needle makes a path for the thread, and afterwards the leather can swell back around the thread, sealing the hole made by the needle.

On the other hand, saddle stitching or lacing through a hole 3 times the size of the needle is a lot easier.

[Monticore]

i am with marlin on the rotary punch the people who use them get a nice finsihed consitant look but i don;t like seeing the holes too much. the only reason i started using a thonging chisel , the angled ones that give a awl look was because i wasn't doing it right and needed the bigger holes or my edges would buckle/my backside would not look clean.

i always thought you needed a knot a full knot to be saddle stitch . i understand that you only need them locked to create the tension to hold the stitch . i should am a very visual person and learning everything online has been a bit tough to get used too. no classes or leather stores are withing 4 hour drive from my place.

my stitch look tons better already so i will try using the awl again.

[Rayban]

....something else I do on occasion.....on the drill press, use a 3/64" bit.....as "pilot holes"...the awl is actually bigger..so when going through 4 or 5 layers of leather, it's a big help...the awl fills in the hole and then some.....no can tell.....

[ChuckBurrows]

see if this will help.........

http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials...therstitch.html

[jimsaddler]

i am with marlin on the rotary punch the people who use them get a nice finsihed consitant look but i don;t like seeing the holes too much. the only reason i started using a thonging chisel , the angled ones that give a awl look was because i wasn't doing it right and needed the bigger holes or my edges would buckle/my backside would not look clean.

i always thought you needed a knot a full knot to be saddle stitch . i understand that you only need them locked to create the tension to hold the stitch . i should am a very visual person and learning everything online has been a bit tough to get used too. no classes or leather stores are withing 4 hour drive from my place.

my stitch look tons better already so i will try using the awl again.

Hi all

well I just couldn't sit without putting my bit on Stitching forward. Dremels are fantastic, but not for stitching. Templates are Ok but not if you want the best. There are only a couple of acceptable methods and they are are based on PRACTICE!!!! Contrary to popular belief the ultimate stitching is very fine, 12 per inch or finer and is done with an oval shaped Awl Blade which has a straight flat point and Oval shaped body. This Awl cuts the Leather then the Body stretches the Leather open to allow the Needles to be passed through. there is no room for the threads to do anything but lay in place neatly. The back thread is thrown over to create a SINGLE KNOT knot in the material and the thread pulled up firm completes the stitch. If done properly the Back will look as good as the Face side and have the same lay. The Knot will help to hold the stitch even when the Thread is worn on the surface. I add that the Needles should be much finer than the thread and the thread tapered to allow the Needles to be placed on the taper so they can be pulled through easily. (Hand made Waxed end Linen (Hemp) or Silk is by far the Best thread to use) But it all boils down to Practise Practise and more practise.

I used to employ a team of stitchers who would be probably some of the best you could find. They Were all Tongans! their sewing ability came from their ability with their Hands to make fine Woven Mats. They adapted so quickly. Their secret? the ability to forget about the sewing and do it automatically while they sang! Do you get the Message? Practise until you get so used to Hand sewing that you forget about making mistakes. Your motion must be consistant and repetively identical and fast. If you go slow you will allways make mistakes, I still do if I concentrate. The slope of the stitch hole must be identical every time.

The aids that I recomend are; Pricking Irons and Wheels (sharpened and Polished to a point). Judgement (from Practise). Awls should be sharp at the point only to make the first cut, then well polished to open up the cut. Elbow Grease to drive the Awl through smoothly.

The best comment that can be made about Hand and Machine Sewing is Good Machine Sewing should look like it's been done by Hand. I was told this nearly 50 years ago by a Top Harness Maker and believe the message was correct. I've seen some really good Hand Sewing over the years and never seen a machine that could do better. The old Pearson A1 was the closest I've seen. Why? Because the Machine needle is allways bigger than the thread.

I'll sign off as Jim Saddler so to not confuse the issue with the other Jim

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

I agree fully with Marlon. If you are going to "hand stitch", then do it, and do it right. The old timers did it that way and that is the reslults everyone is trying to emulate. On the other hand, if you don't care about the results, do it any way you like, but; don't expect to find an easy to make it look like the old fashiond way, there just ain't a substitute for good old fashioned quality.

Bondo Bob

[Lippy]

Jim Saddler . . . you are my hero! When are you going to write the book on hand stitching? Is the oval awl blade something you make or can I find it in the C. S. Osborne catalog? Likewise, what size needle would you use for 12 stitches per inch? And, is there any difference in quality between Osborne and John James harness needles.

[Rayban]

I would really like to see what 12 per inch looks....and how and where it is used....on leather.

Thanks.

Edited June 8, 2009 by Rayban

[hidepounder]

I would really like to see what 12 per inch looks....and how and where it is used....on leather.

Thanks.

Primarily used on fine harness work. Not seen very often on western type pieces, except for casework interiors, etc.

[dbusarow]

Seems fairly common on English reins and headstalls. The 12SPI that is. What you find in your typical catalog or tack store is probably not done by hand, unless you are paying several hundred for your headstalls.

Dan

[Kani]

check out these youtube tutorials of hand sewing. 2 different styles.

Edited June 25, 2009 by Kani

[D.A. Kabatoff]

Cory,

You mentioned the leather buckling at the edges... this can be the result of several things including too soft leather, poor awl (bad shape, size and sharpness), and no support for the leather while sewing. Something else you should keep in mind is the quality of your tools and materials. Thonging chisels are made for thonging, not handsewing, and will rarely if ever match up in size with an awl. If you are using the chisel because it marks the angle, get rid of it and find a proper pricking iron. The best modern ones available seem to be from Vergez Blanchard and can still be bought in North America through Siegels of California. I think Marlon mentioned consistency in everything you do and lots of practice... This also means the way you grip your awl; put a mark on the handle so that everytime you grip it, it is in the same place in your hand. Over time this will feel more natural and allow you to make your holes at the same angle without the help of a pricking iron.

Using a good stitching horse (the old ones) that is ergonomically designed will do wonders for your handsewing... the old ones with the clamp mounted on a bench have the clamp turned to the right and leaned to the left so that it matches up with your natural posture (for righthanded people). The stitching horse will also support your work at the edges so that it isn't bending and flexing while you are trying to push your awl through it.

Make sure you are using a properly sized awl for your work that is sharp. If you are trying to use something right off the shelf from Tandy, you will be making the work much more difficult than it needs to be. You may have seen in other threads on the forum that everyone is always going off about the awls that Bob Douglas of Sheridan, Wy is selling... these awls are a good shape and sharp and polished to be used. If you don't want to spend the money on such an awl, you need to get a look at a proper awl and fabricate one yourself... You will also need needles to match your awl size and thread size. If they don't match up you will be using pliers to try and pull your needle through the work on every stitch. You may also wind up with the opposite problem where your awl is too big for the size of thread you are using and the thread isn't big enough to fill the awl hole.

Finally, if you are using pulpy, belly leather that was poorly tanned, you will never get the desired look. You need to learn what makes good leather good... this will come with experience, but you can just about bet like anything, price is often and indicator of quality with leather (not always, but usually).

After you get all the proper tools and materials, proper technique and practice will produce the results you are looking for... don't expect too much too quickly as most good handsewing comes from people with years of experience.