How to apply antiquing gel?

[DreadPirateRedbeard]

So I got some antiquing gel in a lot of supplies a few days ago and I want to try it on a project. However, I don't know how to apply it. Do I apply it on wet leather, dry, slightly damp? And do I use anything special for it such as a sponge, paper towel, cloth?

And last but not least, the leather I'm using for the vambraces is already a brown kinda colour as is the antiquing gel. Will that cancel out the effect I'm after? I've never seen leather like this anyway. It's a medium brown, kinda semi gloss finish on it, but the back is weird, it appears to have an almost cloth backing on it. I'm quite sure it's leather and not naugahyde. It smells like leather! It's thick like some of the heavier duty tooling leather I've used in the past, but not stiff like the veg tan. It's pretty soft but semi rigid. It also has these veins/streaks of way lighter brown in it and it looks like it's from being rolled up and handled. I also want to make these hardened (cuirbolli) leather, will it work for the hardening processes? I have a picture of a piece of it. It's not a great picture but it should give you an idea of what it is. I sure hope that I'm making sense, it's late and I'm tired. I just hope someone can make sense of what I'm saying and help me in identifying the leather. Thanks once again everyone, you've been a HUGE help in the short time I've been on this forum. I've learned way more than I could have imagined because of everyone's generosity and kindness. OK no more rambling, I'm off to bed. Goodnight kids!

Dirkin

Edited June 6, 2009 by DreadPirateRedbeard

[Leerwerker]

So I got some antiquing gel in a lot of supplies a few days ago and I want to try it on a project. However, I don't know how to apply it.

I pour it on a dauber and smear it on ....

Do I apply it on wet leather, dry, slightly damp? And do I use anything special for it such as a sponge, paper towel, cloth?

Don't find too much of a difference between damp and dry leather - as long as you put it on liberally.

And last but not least, the leather I'm using for the vambraces is already a brown kinda colour as is the antiquing gel. Will that cancel out the effect I'm after?

No, it will still hightlight the tooling perfectly!

[Tina]

So I got some antiquing gel in a lot of supplies a few days ago and I want to try it on a project. However, I don't know how to apply it. Do I apply it on wet leather, dry, slightly damp? And do I use anything special for it such as a sponge, paper towel, cloth?

And last but not least, the leather I'm using for the vambraces is already a brown kinda colour as is the antiquing gel. Will that cancel out the effect I'm after? I've never seen leather like this anyway. It's a medium brown, kinda semi gloss finish on it, but the back is weird, it appears to have an almost cloth backing on it. I'm quite sure it's leather and not naugahyde. It smells like leather! It's thick like some of the heavier duty tooling leather I've used in the past, but not stiff like the veg tan. It's pretty soft but semi rigid. It also has these veins/streaks of way lighter brown in it and it looks like it's from being rolled up and handled. I also want to make these hardened (cuirbolli) leather, will it work for the hardening processes? I have a picture of a piece of it. It's not a great picture but it should give you an idea of what it is. I sure hope that I'm making sense, it's late and I'm tired. I just hope someone can make sense of what I'm saying and help me in identifying the leather. Thanks once again everyone, you've been a HUGE help in the short time I've been on this forum. I've learned way more than I could have imagined because of everyone's generosity and kindness. OK no more rambling, I'm off to bed. Goodnight kids!

Dirkin

I paste a link here that I have found very useful...I do use some other products than the link suggests but the overall "how to" works well...Good Luck:-)

http://www.clintfay.com/monthly_tips/monthlytipMar07.html

[DreadPirateRedbeard]

I pour it on a dauber and smear it on ....

Well I guess I should have opened it and checked it out. It's not gel, it's a paste. So I'd just use maybe a cotton rag to apply it?

[hidepounder]

Dirkin,

There are a couple of ways to use the antique paste. The effect you are trying to achieve dictates the method you use. If you want to substantially darken your leather, then you can apply the paste directly to the leather....rub it in....and then remove all residue. The application needs to be even and should be applied all at once. The longer it's on, the darker it will get and if you apply it in stages, the overlap will show. It should be applied to dry leather and I recommend cleaning the leather with oxalic acid before applying the antique. Antique is notorious for going on uneven, leaving light and dark "blotchy" areas, due to texture changes in the leather and/or different residues left on the surface due to handling.

Probably the more accepted way of applying antique paste is to seal the leather first with Neat-Lac or something similar (this is commonly called applying a "resist"). Once it's dry, apply the antique and remove all the residue. This is the method used when a piece is tooled and the objective is to enhance the appearance of depth and to create highlights. The leather will not be colored as deeply (due to the resist), but the depressions will hold more color.

I prefer to apply the paste with a piece of trimmed woolskin scrap. Then I remove all residue with another piece of trimmed woolskin and follow that up by polishing...again with trimmed woolskin. Once it's dry, the piece then needs to sealed with any of a variety of sealers....all of which may pick up the color of the antique, so you need to be carefull when applying the sealer. I use Neat-Lac (which is no longer available...but the method works for most all sealers) and I apply it with...you guessed it....a trimmed piece of woolskin scrap. Light coats applied quickly are best. If you use a spray be careful not to apply too much! It's easy to get too much on with an aerosol.

Hope this helps!

Bob

[RunningRoan]

Probably the more accepted way of applying antique paste is to seal the leather first with Neat-Lac or something similar (this is commonly called applying a "resist"). Once it's dry, apply the antique and remove all the residue. This is the method used when a piece is tooled and the objective is to enhance the appearance of depth and to create highlights. The leather will not be colored as deeply (due to the resist), but the depressions will hold more color.

I've been experimenting with EcoFlo stain to enhance my tooling. It's doing the job, however, I'd like more contrast! I'm using light leather and I want to color the depressions only, not darken the leather.

So, is the EcoFlo stain the correct thing to use? I have some Leather Sheen and I also have a bottle of EcoFlo Satin Sheen...would one of these work for a resist? Apply the resist, then tool/stamp, then apply the stain?

[hidepounder]

So, is the EcoFlo stain the correct thing to use? I have some Leather Sheen and I also have a bottle of EcoFlo Satin Sheen...would one of these work for a resist? Apply the resist, then tool/stamp, then apply the stain?

I'm sorry, I really know nothing about the Ecoflo products because I don't use them. Someone who does needs to jump in here....but I did want to tell you to tool FIRST. Then do any dyeing, then apply the resist, then antique. Tandy makes some Highliters that I believe are intended to darken the cuts and depressions without coloring the body of the leather....AS MUCH. However, I don't use those either, so I can't really comment on them.

Bob

[Spinner]

For those of us that can't get Neat-Lac and the other sealers, etc. (CA has crazy tough VOC laws) what other products are recommended?

[electrathon]

For those of us that can't get Neat-Lac and the other sealers, etc. (CA has crazy tough VOC laws) what other products are recommended?

RTC from Bee Natural. When you use it just make sure you put it on generously.

[Spinner]

RTC from Bee Natural. When you use it just make sure you put it on generously.

Thanks!

[Cliffy]

I'm sorry, I really know nothing about the Ecoflo products because I don't use them. Someone who does needs to jump in here....but I did want to tell you to tool FIRST. Then do any dyeing, then apply the resist, then antique. Tandy makes some Highliters that I believe are intended to darken the cuts and depressions without coloring the body of the leather....AS MUCH. However, I don't use those either, so I can't really comment on them.

Bob

Long live Old School.........the day I have to stop using tried and true traditional finishes like Fiebing's antique paste and spirit dyes and go with the tree-hugger stuff like Eco-Flow, is the day I lay down my tools forever. Neat Lac is still available too. It takes a lot of digging, but quarts still can be found through suppliers. For how long.........dunno!

[Spinner]

Hmmm....wonder if one of my non-CA relatives can get ahold of some. Not for me of course...hehe

[King's X]

I've been experimenting with EcoFlo stain to enhance my tooling. It's doing the job, however, I'd like more contrast! I'm using light leather and I want to color the depressions only, not darken the leather.

So, is the EcoFlo stain the correct thing to use? I have some Leather Sheen and I also have a bottle of EcoFlo Satin Sheen...would one of these work for a resist? Apply the resist, then tool/stamp, then apply the stain?

If you get a chance, drop by a tandy store and pick up Tony Laier's book on Eco-Flo product and how to apply them for different results. I believe it is on sale for members through August? $15? Anyways, Eco-Flo is an interesting product. I have good and back luck with it. Of course, I don't believe that I have the talent or education to master these products like Mr. Laier or Hidepounder, after all, I am just a hobbyist at leather work. The moment I feel that this turns into a work, as previously said earlier, I will lay my tools down. Anyways, looking at my book here, it says to use a "highlighter" Eco Flo product for more detail highlighting than darkening. The problem that took me two years to figure out until I found this website was that I was using Tandy leather and because of their supplier's tanning process did not work out well for me. I ruined many projects. I now use Herman Oak and boy what a difference any stain or dye makes on that leather. Our guild conducts a challenge project piece every month and I recently had one of our artist members give me a paint lesson with dye. Looking at our pieces of leather (his Tandy leather & mine HO) his was almost white! But then again, his final dyed project looked beautiful. I just don't have that talent, so I have to fake it. Anyways, if you stick around Eco-Flo, invest in the book, it is really good information for anyone learning how to manipulate eco-flo products. Plus, Tony makes it look really easy... I hope Hidepounder doesn't mind, but I have hijacking his processes that I read here on how he works his leather projects. I can see some results, but I have a ways to go.

good luck!

[DreadPirateRedbeard]

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-cans-Leathercraft-st...93%3A1|294%3A50

If I wasn't so damned low on money, I'd buy this. Maybe someone would like to buy this and maybe trade all or part for some other stuff. I have some leather to trade or I could do some blacksmithing or chain maille work for you.

[pete]

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-cans-Leathercraft-st...93%3A1|294%3A50

If I wasn't so damned low on money, I'd buy this. Maybe someone would like to buy this and maybe trade all or part for some other stuff. I have some leather to trade or I could do some blacksmithing or chain maille work for you.

is that Neat-Lac or is it a stain of some kind.?????

pete

[DreadPirateRedbeard]

is that Neat-Lac or is it a stain of some kind.?????

pete

The closeups on the supersized images say Neat-Lac leather finish.

[Tkleather1]

For those of us that can't get Neat-Lac and the other sealers, etc. (CA has crazy tough VOC laws) what other products are recommended?

I have been told that the rtc is good stuff but its pretty expensive and you have to use two coats minimum. Another product I have used with fair success is Saddle lac, Now I need to verify that I dont particularly care for this product but have had fairly close results as Neetlac I do however use it a little different than intended, I spray it liberally onto a peice of trimmed shearling and then rub it on. I tried spraying it once and found it works like crap. I was going to throw it away and I though well I will try rubbing it on and had way better results. if you are going over dye or antique with it be careful it seems to lift even more than neet lac did so I would use Tan kote as a top coat.

Just my two cents worth and I exppect a check in the mail. Ha Ha

[Leerwerker]

Big red flag! This guy better not let anybody see him sell the Neat Lac - he lives in California - totally illegal to sell it there or toi sell it to anybody living in California. Neatlac has a long shelf life, but that packaging has not been sold in the last ten years - I would be suspect.

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-cans-Leathercraft-st...93%3A1|294%3A50

If I wasn't so damned low on money, I'd buy this. Maybe someone would like to buy this and maybe trade all or part for some other stuff. I have some leather to trade or I could do some blacksmithing or chain maille work for you.

[kbarker]

On 6/6/2009 at 12:52 PM, hidepounder said:

Dirkin,

There are a couple of ways to use the antique paste. The effect you are trying to achieve dictates the method you use. If you want to substantially darken your leather, then you can apply the paste directly to the leather....rub it in....and then remove all residue. The application needs to be even and should be applied all at once. The longer it's on, the darker it will get and if you apply it in stages, the overlap will show. It should be applied to dry leather and I recommend cleaning the leather with oxalic acid before applying the antique. Antique is notorious for going on uneven, leaving light and dark "blotchy" areas, due to texture changes in the leather and/or different residues left on the surface due to handling.

Probably the more accepted way of applying antique paste is to seal the leather first with Neat-Lac or something similar (this is commonly called applying a "resist"). Once it's dry, apply the antique and remove all the residue. This is the method used when a piece is tooled and the objective is to enhance the appearance of depth and to create highlights. The leather will not be colored as deeply (due to the resist), but the depressions will hold more color.

I prefer to apply the paste with a piece of trimmed woolskin scrap. Then I remove all residue with another piece of trimmed woolskin and follow that up by polishing...again with trimmed woolskin. Once it's dry, the piece then needs to sealed with any of a variety of sealers....all of which may pick up the color of the antique, so you need to be carefull when applying the sealer. I use Neat-Lac (which is no longer available...but the method works for most all sealers) and I apply it with...you guessed it....a trimmed piece of woolskin scrap. Light coats applied quickly are best. If you use a spray be careful not to apply too much! It's easy to get too much on with an aerosol.

Hope this helps!

Bob

If unable to get woolskin any other suggestions?.... this is completely just wanting to get a project done quickly. Thanks

[fredk]

Artificial or faux wool fleece works just as well. Easier got too in most material shops. Cheaper too and just a few ££ for a square meter. And if you are fancy-free, available in many colours, such as purple or red as well as brown or cream

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sherpa-Sheep-Skin-Fabric-Material-Shearling-Faux-Fur-110cm-Wide-Soft-By-Meter-UK/163570758205?hash=item261593b23d:m:mMuj715U_IfjDqIkNgAWZUw

For Fiebings Antique paste I just use a cloth block. Some old clean rag folded up then another clean rag folded around that. Use that to apply and another clean rag in my hand to wipe it off

The wooly is good for getting the paste on ok but I found it could also remove too much from the wee nooks and crannies so wiping it over with a cloth in hand I can be more discerning on how much and where to remove

[Rockoboy]

5 hours ago, fredk said:

The wooly is good for getting the paste on ok but I found it could also remove too much from the wee nooks and crannies so wiping it over with a cloth in hand I can be more discerning on how much and where to remove

I was using some antique recently, somebody with a wealth more experience than I, said they used to use a window squeegee to remove the excess antique. No way that thing will get down into the carving to remove any antique, it just skims over the top. I used a wadded up paper towel lightly across the top of the carving.

[Mark842]

I actually apply mine using the first method they tell you not to do. I put on a set of latex gloves and apply the paste or gel by hand. If gel make sure you get it spread out over the entire area you want quickly to avoid it leaving border lines. The paste is much more forgiving. I rub it in with my gloved hand to desired effect. Then depending on how dark I want it I either start removing it right away or leave it to darken a bit. I remove excess using 100% cotton T shirt rags. I've found that anything fluffy used for removal removes too much from the cuts that I want to be darker. This probably comes down to your personal style and preference. I also seal using Liquitex varnish. It is flexible, seals great and can be airbrushed on so it will not remove any finish like the sealers you wipe on.

[fredk]

16 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

. . .  said they used to use a window squeegee to remove the excess antique. No way that thing will get down into the carving to remove any antique, it just skims over the top. I used a wadded up paper towel lightly across the top of the carving.

Thats clever.

But oddly enough window squeegies are harder to get than rocking horse poo in my area. I've been trying to buy one for regular window cleaning. For the last few months I've tried so many places, many of which don't even know what it is. I reckon its an endangered species

[Rockoboy]

On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 10:07 AM, fredk said:

window squeegies are harder to get than rocking horse poo in my area

That's funny. There were 2 for 50 cents each on the "discontinued and throw out shelf" at the supermarket last week, and as many as I want at the big box hardware store a few weeks back. I guess there might be different requirements for each different area or country.

[howie696]

Brian instead of a squeegie you can cut a piece of rubber, I'll show you how this works at the next meeting

cheers

Howard