Contributing Member Regis Posted June 18, 2009 Author Contributing Member Report Posted June 18, 2009 I am using leather needles(135x16 Dia). Went to thicker leather (2/3 on 3/4). Stitches are nice and reverse at end is good. But, still loose at beginning (even pulling both strings firmly to rear). The top string is the looses/looped one at beginning of stitch line. Tried a peice of 8/9oz and it looks good beginning & end. Thanks, Regis Quote God, Family, and Country (although liberals are attempting to destroy these in the USA)
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted June 18, 2009 Ambassador Report Posted June 18, 2009 Regis, i have found out that sometimes what we want to do ,the Machines just want coperate.....( thin leather= small thread & needle). and it goes up from there. hopefully i was able to help somewhat. Quote Luke
Members jimsaddler Posted June 18, 2009 Members Report Posted June 18, 2009 I am using leather needles(135x16 Dia). Went to thicker leather (2/3 on 3/4). Stitches are nice and reverse at end is good. But, still loose at beginning (even pulling both strings firmly to rear). The top string is the looses/looped one at beginning of stitch line. Tried a peice of 8/9oz and it looks good beginning & end. Thanks, Regis Whay type pf Leather Point? are they Tri point as the look of your stitch does not show a Lay which LR will give and allow the stitch to sit right. From the picture the holes look round. Anchor the top Thread under the Foot to stop it pulling through when you start as this what causes the looping. Kimdest Regards. Jim Saddler. Quote
Bob Posted June 18, 2009 Report Posted June 18, 2009 Regis, the leather needle that Jim saddler is talking about lays a hole in the leather that looks like this.... //////////// except farther apart... the needle point in question is called LR point. the blade is angled on 45 degrees. Leaves a nice stitch. I hope this helps. I see what he's trying to explain and agree with his point of view. The bigger the needle, the less deflection also. Quote Bob Goudreault www.kamloopssaddlery.com
Members Wyvern Posted June 18, 2009 Members Report Posted June 18, 2009 Where do you get #18 or #20 LR needles to fit Singer type machines? Quote Slainte, Sonas, agus Beartus wyvernleatherworks.com
Contributing Member Regis Posted June 18, 2009 Author Contributing Member Report Posted June 18, 2009 (edited) All the needles I have are the same type, just different sizes (18-23). Here is what is on each pack: Schmetz Canu: 37:20KJ1 NM:125 Size __ 135x16 DIA DPx16 DIA Jim, Bob, the needle cuts look straight and are slices not round. Removing the thread shows row of straight slices. The blade "looks" like it might have a very slight cant but no where near 45 degrees. I bought all the needles from Sailrite as this machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 clone and I bought some attachments there. It is what they sell as leather needle. I should be talking to CobraSteve today and will order some needles. It sure would be nice if changing needle type improves my stitching. Thanksfor all the help. Regis Edited June 18, 2009 by Regis Quote God, Family, and Country (although liberals are attempting to destroy these in the USA)
Moderator Art Posted June 18, 2009 Moderator Report Posted June 18, 2009 Hi Regis, Schmetz diamond point (DIA) needles that you have are the correct ones for leather. With leather, you run a little more bobbin tension than with textiles, especially with thin leather, then adjust the top tension to put the lock in the correct place. You need thinner thread with thin fabric or leather, 46 or 69 with bobbin tension properly set and stitch length correspondingly shortened. You need a small needle with small thread, there should be enough tension in the hole to hold the thread tightly. Locking off your stitches at start and stop will help too, make sure to keep the tails out of the way. Art All the needles I have are the same type, just different sizes (18-23). Here is what is on each pack:Schmetz Canu: 37:20KJ1 NM:125 Size __ 135x16 DIA DPx16 DIA Jim, Bob, the needle cuts look straight and are slices not round. Removing the thread shows row of straight slices. The blade "looks" like it might have a very slight cant but no where near 45 degrees. I bought all the needles from Sailrite as this machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 clone and I bought some attachments there. It is what they sell as leather needle. I should be talking to CobraSteve today and will order some needles. It sure would be nice if changing needle type improves my stitching. Thanksfor all the help. Regis Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Contributing Member Regis Posted June 18, 2009 Author Contributing Member Report Posted June 18, 2009 Art, Glad to hear needles are ok. I'll load some #69 (smallest I have) and an 18 needle and sew the thin leather. Will post picture(s). I want to try to sew better/neater BEFORE I order that new machine from Steve. Thanks, regis Quote God, Family, and Country (although liberals are attempting to destroy these in the USA)
Contributing Member Regis Posted June 18, 2009 Author Contributing Member Report Posted June 18, 2009 Well, to close this out, it's back to basics for me. After help here including Art's note about thread size and talking to CobraSteve on the phone, I have the solution. #1 - Thread & needle too big for leather thickness - 2oz leather needs 69 or smaller and #18 or smaller needle. - There is simply not enough thickness for the lockstitch with 138 thread - Back stitching with larger needle compounded problem #2 - I was careless with the ends of the thread both at beginning and end of stitching. #3 - I was not setting up BOTH upper tension and bobbin tension for each leather, thread, & needle combination. #4 - My bobbin case & spring needed cleaning and adjusting. I do wonder if there is a chart "somewhere" that says what thread is reccomended for different thicknesses of leather. My thanks to everyone that helped me through this. Regis Quote God, Family, and Country (although liberals are attempting to destroy these in the USA)
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