Regis Report post Posted June 17, 2009 I'm having a problem getting the beginning and end of my stitching clean. Please take a look at these and help me improve my stitching. I can secure with a drop of glue but, still looks loose and bulky. I'll be getting a new machine but, I don't think(?) this is a machine problem. The line not being straight may(?) be machine. This is with #92 on 2 layers of 2/3 oz. Appreciate any help. Thank, Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted June 17, 2009 (edited) REGIS.... is the foot and needle tight?. are the feed dogs tight ? ok... are you holding the loose ends of the threads before you start sewing ? put a new needle in.......... wished i knew more to tell you. hopefully Art will be here soon. re- thread it with #69 size thread, then see what happens. Edited June 17, 2009 by Luke Hatley Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted June 17, 2009 Regis, Is your needle installed properly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted June 17, 2009 I've tried #20, #22, & #23 needles with 92 & 138 thread. Have same with #69 thread & 18 needle. As far as I know, everything is tight although I don't know how to check the feed dogs(not obviously loose). Needle is inserted right. Have held thread to the side but, not necessarily tight. I do have a bad habbit of just sliding thread out of the way. Should it be pulled tight at beginning and when removing peice? I'll have to play with that some. I also do a lot at beginning and end turning flywheel by hand because I need it SLOW. Thanks, Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted June 17, 2009 hold thread .....not tight but snug......... did you replace the needle? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted June 17, 2009 This is a new needle but, not a new problem. I'm just doing more stitching in visable places and I need to clean it up. Pulling threads firmly toward back seems to help. Have to head out for a few hours but, will try different thread, needle, & leather when I get back Thanks, Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted June 17, 2009 the leather in the photos look very thin. try sewing some 4-8oz leather. if the leather is thin and it is what i think is it it will not sew. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimsaddler Report post Posted June 17, 2009 I'm having a problem getting the beginning and end of my stitching clean. Please take a look at these and help me improve my stitching. I can secure with a drop of glue but, still looks loose and bulky. I'll be getting a new machine but, I don't think(?) this is a machine problem. The line not being straight may(?) be machine. This is with #92 on 2 layers of 2/3 oz. Appreciate any help. Thank, Regis Are you using Cloth point (round) Needles? If so switch to LW leather point as that appears to be the main problem. The other problem is leaving your thread ends slack when starting off. Easy answer is, PUT THE ENDS OF YOUR THREADS FIRMLY UNDER THE FOOT BEFORE YOU START OFF, so that the tension take-up Spring doesn't pull the tag end through and cause the looping (mess) underneath. Also shorten your stitch a fraction for neatness. The Leather Point Needles will give you a slope for your thread to lay in neatly and eliminate the tension inconsistancy (round holes allow the bottom loop to come to the surface). Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted June 17, 2009 With both presser feet down, how easy is it to pull your leather out from underneath the feet. Try holding the leather firmly against the needle plate when stitching. I've found that if the presser feet are not tensioned enough or if there is just too much clearance between the presser feet at their lowest position and the needle plate, the leather get's pulled up at the ed of the upstroke, prohibiting nice, clean stitches. ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted June 18, 2009 ok i have it figured out........that is the portable machine ...and you want to come to memphis, so COME DOWN........WITH THE MACHINE.....we'll get it fixed or kill it......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted June 18, 2009 I am using leather needles(135x16 Dia). Went to thicker leather (2/3 on 3/4). Stitches are nice and reverse at end is good. But, still loose at beginning (even pulling both strings firmly to rear). The top string is the looses/looped one at beginning of stitch line. Tried a peice of 8/9oz and it looks good beginning & end. Thanks, Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Regis, i have found out that sometimes what we want to do ,the Machines just want coperate.....( thin leather= small thread & needle). and it goes up from there. hopefully i was able to help somewhat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimsaddler Report post Posted June 18, 2009 I am using leather needles(135x16 Dia). Went to thicker leather (2/3 on 3/4). Stitches are nice and reverse at end is good. But, still loose at beginning (even pulling both strings firmly to rear). The top string is the looses/looped one at beginning of stitch line. Tried a peice of 8/9oz and it looks good beginning & end. Thanks, Regis Whay type pf Leather Point? are they Tri point as the look of your stitch does not show a Lay which LR will give and allow the stitch to sit right. From the picture the holes look round. Anchor the top Thread under the Foot to stop it pulling through when you start as this what causes the looping. Kimdest Regards. Jim Saddler. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Regis, the leather needle that Jim saddler is talking about lays a hole in the leather that looks like this.... //////////// except farther apart... the needle point in question is called LR point. the blade is angled on 45 degrees. Leaves a nice stitch. I hope this helps. I see what he's trying to explain and agree with his point of view. The bigger the needle, the less deflection also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wyvern Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Where do you get #18 or #20 LR needles to fit Singer type machines? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted June 18, 2009 (edited) All the needles I have are the same type, just different sizes (18-23). Here is what is on each pack: Schmetz Canu: 37:20KJ1 NM:125 Size __ 135x16 DIA DPx16 DIA Jim, Bob, the needle cuts look straight and are slices not round. Removing the thread shows row of straight slices. The blade "looks" like it might have a very slight cant but no where near 45 degrees. I bought all the needles from Sailrite as this machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 clone and I bought some attachments there. It is what they sell as leather needle. I should be talking to CobraSteve today and will order some needles. It sure would be nice if changing needle type improves my stitching. Thanksfor all the help. Regis Edited June 18, 2009 by Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Hi Regis, Schmetz diamond point (DIA) needles that you have are the correct ones for leather. With leather, you run a little more bobbin tension than with textiles, especially with thin leather, then adjust the top tension to put the lock in the correct place. You need thinner thread with thin fabric or leather, 46 or 69 with bobbin tension properly set and stitch length correspondingly shortened. You need a small needle with small thread, there should be enough tension in the hole to hold the thread tightly. Locking off your stitches at start and stop will help too, make sure to keep the tails out of the way. Art All the needles I have are the same type, just different sizes (18-23). Here is what is on each pack:Schmetz Canu: 37:20KJ1 NM:125 Size __ 135x16 DIA DPx16 DIA Jim, Bob, the needle cuts look straight and are slices not round. Removing the thread shows row of straight slices. The blade "looks" like it might have a very slight cant but no where near 45 degrees. I bought all the needles from Sailrite as this machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 clone and I bought some attachments there. It is what they sell as leather needle. I should be talking to CobraSteve today and will order some needles. It sure would be nice if changing needle type improves my stitching. Thanksfor all the help. Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Art, Glad to hear needles are ok. I'll load some #69 (smallest I have) and an 18 needle and sew the thin leather. Will post picture(s). I want to try to sew better/neater BEFORE I order that new machine from Steve. Thanks, regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted June 18, 2009 Well, to close this out, it's back to basics for me. After help here including Art's note about thread size and talking to CobraSteve on the phone, I have the solution. #1 - Thread & needle too big for leather thickness - 2oz leather needs 69 or smaller and #18 or smaller needle. - There is simply not enough thickness for the lockstitch with 138 thread - Back stitching with larger needle compounded problem #2 - I was careless with the ends of the thread both at beginning and end of stitching. #3 - I was not setting up BOTH upper tension and bobbin tension for each leather, thread, & needle combination. #4 - My bobbin case & spring needed cleaning and adjusting. I do wonder if there is a chart "somewhere" that says what thread is reccomended for different thicknesses of leather. My thanks to everyone that helped me through this. Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites