The Beavers Back

[Beaverslayer]

Once you've completed the first seam, you want to roll the lace from the backside of the vest. This will help to lay the lace down nice and even and give you lace a real nice look.

This is what your lace should look like on the front of the vest.

And this is what your lace should look like on the back of the vest.

[Beaverslayer]

Now, doing the same as you did on the previous side, start lacing the other side. Remember that you want it to start the same as you did on the first side, so that it is all the same direction. Once you've reached the middle, your lace should tail should be on the front of the vest. Run your needle through the lace on the opposite side, run it under this lace about 4 or 5 places, then pull nice and tight and cut it off. If the tail sticks out, you can just tuck it under with a lacing fid.

Here's what the completed back should look like.

And here's what the completed front should look like.

Well, it's off to play some Texas Holdem for a bit, so I should be posting again sometime tomorrow. Maybe we will add some nice decorative 3 or 5 strand weave here someplace. We'll see what comes to mind while playing poker.

[Beaverslayer]

To attach the yolk of the shoulder piece to the front panel of the vest, is basically the same as what you've just done on the back panel.

Like the back, apply glue to the edges and fit together. Then mask off the area that is to have the strips glued down to and apply the glue. Also apply glue to the strips.

Be sure to roll the strips with your roller to be sure the bond is good.

Now you can mark and punch your holes. This is again the same as the back, 3/16" in from the edge, then 3/8" apart. Punch a hole in the middle of the seam bot h at the beginning. The hole in the middle by the "Point" is not needed on the yolk.

Now lace the seams one at a time from the outer edge in. When you reach the middle and the end of the lace, sand and glue the tail down just like you did on the back panel. Roll the lace from the back, and your ready to do the other side.

[Beaverslayer]

Let's make a pocket now. This is fairly simply to make, yuou'll need some "Pigskin Suede" to line the pocket with.

Using the pocket template, cut out a piece of your garment hide, then cut a similar piece of suede except this is 1" shorter as seen in the picture. You can cut 2 of each as there is 2 pockets.

Then place a bead og glue all around the edge of the suede liner, and also the edge of the pocket front. On the front the glue bead only goes across the top of the pocket 1" down from the top. Once you have placed the liner onto the front, press them together untill they align up and roll with your roller. If there is any overhang of liner, just trim it off with your scissors.

Now place a strip of painters tape 1 1/2" down from the top of the pocket. Apply glue to this whole top area, once tacky, fold the top over the edge of the liner and press them together. This is to keep the top of the liner from beeing exposed.

Now with your roller, roll the seam good to seal the bond.

I've made a template that I use to mark the hole for pockets, but all is the same as the rest. Across the top you want the holes spaced 3/8" apart but only 3/8" above each other, not the 1/2" we did on the other seams. This is because the lace running down the side is also 3/8" apart so the first laces will match the top laces. Only punch one row of holes down the side and across the bottom of the pocket.

[Beaverslayer]

Okay, moving right along here, let's show how to locate where the pocket needs to live.

Make a mark 1 3/4" in from the front edge at two locations. Then measure up from the point 4" and place a small mark. Using your pocket template, align the edge and bottom up with these three marks. using your gel pen mark the edge of the pocket down the side and across the bottom to the middlie of the pocket. Then measure 5" across from the side line to the other side of the pocket. Place your template on the other side and mark a line down the side and across the bottom to meet the other line. Now from the bottom corner of the pocket make marks 5" up to show where the top of the pocket goes.

Once you've marked it out, you now have to use some sandpaper to rough up the surface to make a good glueing bond. I use 220 grit sandpaper for this. Sand it about 3/16" wide all the way around the marked out area. Make sure to blow the area clean.

You also want to sand the top of the inner side of the foled over piece of garment hide, abot 3/16" in from the edge as well.

[Beaverslayer]

Well let's place the pocket now.

Apply a bead of glue to the sanded area of where the pocket will be placed, all the way around on the inside of the line. Also apply a bead of glue to the edge of the pocket itself.

Once the glue is tacky, starting at the top corner, press the pocket into place

Then do the same to the other top corner.

Now, on the side closest to the front, align the edge of the pocket with your line and press into place.

Do the same on the opposite side as well.

Now at the bottom of the pocket, align the centre of the pocket up with the mark you made at 4" up from the point and press down to attach. Using your finger or even a pencil, lift up the two bottom sides so they are away from the front panel. Carefully scrinch the pocket a bit and place it along the line at the bottom. This may distort a few of the prepunched holes, but not to worry, this gives the pocket it's desired shape. Now do the same on the other side of the bottom. Take your roller, and roll this seam very good, as you want a real good bond here for when you are lacing, it sometimes tends to come apart and give you a bit of a challange to lace.

This is what the pocket should look like once it is glued in place. You will want to leave it for a few hours, for the glue to bond well. This gives you some time to relax, or work on something else while you wait.

[Beaverslayer]

Okay, now that the glue has had some time to dry and bond real good, let's get those holes punched and laced up.

Starting 1/4" above the pocket top, punch 2 holes above so that when the lace is in place this will keep the pocket from being pulled away from the vest. Next, following along the holes that are alredy punched in the pocket, punch holes 3/16" away from the edge of the pocket. When you reach the corners, you have to adjust the space a bit to allow for the lace to flow evenly around the corner.

Now cut a piece of lace 7 times the length from the top to the centre of the bottom. We will be lacing one side from top to bottom, then the other side from top to bottom. This gives the same look of the lace on both sides, more appealing to look at.

Edited March 24, 2008 by Beaverslayer

[Beaverslayer]

Now we can lace this pocket to the vest.

Start your lace into the hole shown in the picture, then in the top of the corner, sand a small area towards the opposing corner and apply a bit of glue to the lace and the sanded area. Press this down and roll.

Run your lace up through to the front through the hole shown, and just before you pull it snug, place a bit of glue on the vest and also the lace. This will help the lace from being pulled out at any time. Now just continue lacing as before, being carefull not to pull your lace to tight on this as it will tend to pucker the leather.

A little lacing tip here: Use the edge of your thumb when pulling the lace to align it with the hole, This helps prevent the lace from twisting as you pull it through.

Once you reach the corner where the holes have been punched a bit farther apart, make sure that when you push your needle through, it comes out on the proper side of the last lace.

When you reach the centre of the pocket, sand an area that is about 1" long so that you can glue the tail down as before. This will be covered by the next lace we do. Be sure to roll all of these glued spots, it realy does help it to bond.

Now on the other side of the pocket, you want to do the exact same thing you did on the first side. Sand a small area, glue the tail down, roll the glued tail, then glue the loop of the first lace on the backside. Then continue to lace until you've reached the end.

At the end of the run, just push your needle through like shown, you want to run it under about 4 or 5 laces back, then cut the tail and tuck any little nubs back under.

Here's the back of the finished seam.

And here's the front of the finished seam. Remember to roll the lace from the back of the vest to help lay the lace down nicely.

[Beaverslayer]

Now to lace the top of the pocket. This is a bit tricky to start, but I think you will get it by the pictures.

Starting on the side closest to the front of the vest, push your needle through about 4 laces back and bring it out just before the top lace. Pull your lace slowly so that the tail is left under as many laces as possible.

Then run your lace through the first open hole on the top of the pocket. On the inside of the pocket, push your needle up through one hole back, this hole already has 2 laces through it from the side lacing. When you've crossed over and back through to the inside again, you will have to go back one hole on the bottom of the top, into the hole that has 2 laces, just like the last stitch that you did. Continue to lace from here as normal. Once you've reached the end, again you will have to run your lace through holes that already have 2 laces in them.

To finish off, run your needle down the side under about 4 or 5 laces, cut the tail and straighten out any nubs left showing.

Here's the completed laced pocket.

[David]

Ken,

Terrific tutorial, you've done a great job on it.

Your work is making this site so much better.

David Theobald