Members Beener Posted July 22, 2009 Members Report Posted July 22, 2009 Hey everyone, I just finished the restoration on the 29K58 base and head and actually had a chace to marry them up and take pictures last night. Haven't sewn with it yet, but I am sure it won't be a problem at all. Enjoy... Quote Never lived a day that I didn't learn something new. May have been something completely useless or trivial but at least it was something new!!
CowboyBob Posted July 22, 2009 Report Posted July 22, 2009 Hey Ben, That looks real nice now if you get your parts I sent you can try her out? Bob Kovar Toledo Ind Sewing Machine Sales Ltd Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Bree Posted July 22, 2009 Report Posted July 22, 2009 I am jealous as can be!! Great job! I wish my 29's looked that good!! Bree Quote Ride Safe! Bree 2003 Dyna Wide Glide Memberships: Iron Butt Association, Niagara Falls HOG, Wild Fire HOG NRA, Niagara County Sportsman's Association
Members Daggrim Posted July 23, 2009 Members Report Posted July 23, 2009 Beautiful job! How did you shine the metal parts? My 29k has a little rust, but I didn't want to start in with steel wool, as that changes the sheen to the ole recognizeable steel wool sheen. How did you get the new brass plates? Daggrim Quote
Members Beener Posted July 23, 2009 Author Members Report Posted July 23, 2009 (edited) I did pretty much the same thing that you do to polish plastic or jewelry. Start Course, end fine. A course scotch brite pad to get the rust off, a 220 grid sanding spounge, then 00 steel wool, it has an abrasiveness (if thats a word) of 2000 grid I believe. To polish it right up I have a turtle wax polishing compound that is slightly less abrasive then standard rubbing compound. You can still see a scratch or two, but it dones shine like new. The Singer badge plate is usually put on before the end shelac is applied, so you need to get the old scelac off first. Popsicle sticks or a wood scraper work great at scaping it off without scratching or gouging the service. Once it's off, I use brasso on it and it comes up nice. If there is rust on the model plate, it goes threw the same process as the rusty parts and then polished. I then paint on clear nail polish (my wifes, not mine...mine is too valuable) to keep the shine sealed in. Otherwise, you have to polish both plates monthly and who needs all that work. Thanks. Ben Edited July 23, 2009 by Beener Quote Never lived a day that I didn't learn something new. May have been something completely useless or trivial but at least it was something new!!
Members Geoff Posted July 23, 2009 Members Report Posted July 23, 2009 that is a fantastic restoration I am envious. Quote
Members cdthayer Posted July 31, 2009 Members Report Posted July 31, 2009 (edited) Very nice job! Your machine really came out nice! I'm "cleaning up" a 29K70, but I won't go as far as you have gone. I'm just going to get mine functional for home and remote use. I have another one at the shop that is not pretty, but functional (see my avitar). The base for it is painted dull green, but it doesn't hurt the way it works. I painted this base flat black to cover up the sparse white paint that a previous owner had sort of "applied". I've got the moving parts of the head soaking with a generous application of sewing machine oil to get the grime loosened up a bit, then I'll be able to determine what is grime and what is rust. Sometimes, what looks like rust is actually old dried oil. I use a Dremel tool w/wire brush to clean the bare metal parts. It especially works well in bolt threads. (Just keep it off of any painted areas.) I just hope that I don't run into any really stubborn screws when I start taking things apart. Some of these old machines have never ever been disassembled for a good cleaning. This one's a 1943 model, and I don't even know how long it's been since it was last used and/or oiled. CD Edited July 31, 2009 by cdthayer Quote "I sew, I sew, so it's off to work I go....." My sewing machines:Adler 205-370 (Hand Crank), Adler 205-64 (Hand Crank), Consew 226 (Clutch/Speed Reducer), Singer 111G156 (Hand Crank or Clutch), Singer 111W153 (Clutch), Singer 20U33 (Clutch), Singer 78-3 Needlefeed (Treadle), Singer 20U (Treadle), Singer 29K70 (x2) (Both Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 96-40 w/Darning Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 (Hand Crank), Singer 16-41 (Treadle), Singer 66-1 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 201K4 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 216G Zigzag (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 319W (Treadle)
Members Beener Posted July 31, 2009 Author Members Report Posted July 31, 2009 Yeah, I was only going to do this once on this machine, so I decided to get a little crazy. Yours looks like it will be a great restoration. The 70 looks like it is in close to the same shape as mine was when I started. Good luck and if you need anything, let me know. Quote Never lived a day that I didn't learn something new. May have been something completely useless or trivial but at least it was something new!!
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted August 2, 2009 Ambassador Report Posted August 2, 2009 (edited) you have a fine looking machine ....i want to see some stiches............ Edited August 2, 2009 by Luke Hatley Quote Luke
Members cdthayer Posted August 28, 2009 Members Report Posted August 28, 2009 ...Yours looks like it will be a great restoration. The 70 looks like it is in close to the same shape as mine was when I started. Good luck and if you need anything, let me know. Beener, How are you coming with getting your machine adjusted to sew? I finished my clean-up on the 28k70, and have it sewing (at least by hand crank). I never will get it to look as good as your 29k58, but it's useable now. The Stitch Regulator and Check Lever are pretty well worn, and the Bobbin Winder is pretty sloppy, but everything else is in pretty good shape. I have a Stitch Regulator coming for it, and I dressed the thread notch down in the Check Lever eye so thicker thread won't snag. As a side note, I hadn't noticed that the Needle Bar Driving Lever (top arm) on mine was from an earlier model, probably a 29-4, and it doesn't have the adjustable Check Lever feature that is on the later models. It seems to sew ok with this arrangement. Nice thing about these old machines; parts will interchange on them. CD Quote "I sew, I sew, so it's off to work I go....." My sewing machines:Adler 205-370 (Hand Crank), Adler 205-64 (Hand Crank), Consew 226 (Clutch/Speed Reducer), Singer 111G156 (Hand Crank or Clutch), Singer 111W153 (Clutch), Singer 20U33 (Clutch), Singer 78-3 Needlefeed (Treadle), Singer 20U (Treadle), Singer 29K70 (x2) (Both Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 96-40 w/Darning Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 (Hand Crank), Singer 16-41 (Treadle), Singer 66-1 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 201K4 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 216G Zigzag (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 319W (Treadle)
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