Finishing Edges

[alpha2]

If you do a layer of edge paint, then sand, burnish, sand again, then apply a final coat of edge paint, the coats will adhere to each other, and the final coat can look pretty good. I'd begun to think that edge paint was evil, then realized that it was just a solution to a different problem, and have started using it again. Remember...there is no "right way", there is only "different right ways".

[LeatherWorkerGirl]

On 7/23/2009 at 5:41 PM, hidepounder said:

Hello everybody,

I receive quite a few PM's and emails requesting information on edges, finger cutting, tooling patterns and various other topics. Questions regarding some of these topics come up on a fairly regular basis, so I thought I would put something together that members could easily refer to. This article describes the way I finish edges and Johanna has posted it in the "Tips & Tricks" section on the main page. I hope that some of you will find it helpful.

Finishing Edges

Bob

SAVING THIS 

[Northlift]

Hey! Thanks so much for this tutorial. I'm trying to figure out how to finish the edges on my belts - edge kote LOOKS the best but I know it wont last long on the tongue of my belts - lots of action and bending happening there. I want to do the dying method here, but don't know how to flatten out the issue with my edges - I use an upholstery leather as my interior liner, and I while I can get the main piece of sole bend nice and smooth, theres always separation between the belt and the liner. 

Anyone have any ideas as to what I could do? Thanks so much! 

[Mocivnik]

About edge kote (fiebings, to be more accurate): Why was I told, that edge kote looks completely amateur? I'm having difficulties with finishing edges only with dye and gum trag, as the edge isn't looking great.

[alpha2]

My edge kote looks fine. If you don't smooth the edge first, and if you don't lightly sand or buff the edge kote with a piece of canvas or similar, it might look amateur, but done correctly, it looks just fine. You should be able to get great edges with your dye and gum trag, also. It may take more than one attempt at it, but a very light sanding between applications should help. It doesn't hurt to put some beeswax on it either.

[Mocivnik]

@alpha2

Thank You for your great comment, it really helps me a lot. I'm not new, but still at the very beggining in the leatherwork, because I don't do as much as I'd want to.

I've used gum trag on quite a few leather edges (mostly leather belts), but I always came to the that kind of finish, where it looks like it's cracked, you could se cracks all over. I thought it was bad gum trag (I got it from China for few $), but someone told me it doesn't matter, what trag you're using.

That's why I'm confused now.

 

And what color it should be? Same as leather is dyed or some sort of a contrast should be applied? I use black, brown and red dyes so far.

[alpha2]

I've never used gum trag. If I'm doing a black belt or collar, I'll use black, if it's a tan to brown item, I'll use brown. A contrasting darker edge looks good some items. Natural is a great color itself sometimes for a lighter item. 

[Mocivnik]

So you recommend to buy natural, black and brown color? (I only work with these colors for now, but I'm into bordeux red also, but I really don't intend to use red dye for edges).

I got few more questions about (fiebings) edge kote:

 

How long can bottle be opened? Does it last a year or so?

How long does last one 4 oz. (118ml) bottle?
 

[alpha2]

When I say natural, I mean no dye, no edge coat. Just bevel, burnish, sand lightly, burnish again. 

A bottle will last quite a long time, unless you're doing serious production. You don't use that much at a time, and you will split it up between whatever colors you have.

[Mocivnik]

Burnish? With wooden burnished and no fluid at al?

 

No, not at all. I just wanted to know, if it vapors or becomes useless after time, if it's opened bottle.