Using a Tippmann Boss Stitcher

[thecapgunkid]

Anybody out there using a Tippman Boss?

Being an 18th century cordwainer and hand stitching devotee, I broke down and bought one about twelve years ago. I did not use it a lot, but when I did NO matter what I did, it'd jam. miss stitches and mess up my work. So, I sent it off in a box and told them I did not care what they did with it but never wanted to see it again.

About a week later, I get a call from one of their techs wanting to tune and fix it, and Bob Tippman hisself even called me. Two weeks after that, I get it back and it is now working surprisingly well.

Now, slap my face and call me cobbler, but I really respect their rapid customer service and may well keep the thing.

I am looking for operational tips on using it, because, up to now, I have only used it maybe fifty times in the twelve years I had it, principally because doing 18th century required hand stitching.

Now I'm into cowboy, where 19th century work was done mostly on machines, and the machine is almost preferred if I can keep it working right.

Here's my biggest question: Why does it tangle up the bobbin thread and jam once in a while and how can I prevent that?

Thanks, and, don't shoot yore eye out, kid

The Capgun Kid

[rickybobby]

Anybody out there using a Tippman Boss?

Being an 18th century cordwainer and hand stitching devotee, I broke down and bought one about twelve years ago. I did not use it a lot, but when I did NO matter what I did, it'd jam. miss stitches and mess up my work. So, I sent it off in a box and told them I did not care what they did with it but never wanted to see it again.

About a week later, I get a call from one of their techs wanting to tune and fix it, and Bob Tippman hisself even called me. Two weeks after that, I get it back and it is now working surprisingly well.

Now, slap my face and call me cobbler, but I really respect their rapid customer service and may well keep the thing.

I am looking for operational tips on using it, because, up to now, I have only used it maybe fifty times in the twelve years I had it, principally because doing 18th century required hand stitching.

Now I'm into cowboy, where 19th century work was done mostly on machines, and the machine is almost preferred if I can keep it working right.

Here's my biggest question: Why does it tangle up the bobbin thread and jam once in a while and how can I prevent that?

Thanks, and, don't shoot yore eye out, kid

The Capgun Kid

It sounds like you need to deal with the upper and lower tension. The book they supply does a great job of telling how to adjust. I tightened one loosened the other, then did the opposite, mostly to see what happened and what the "MISTAKES" looked like. Then concentrated on doing nice stitches, ran through a bunch of scrap leather but really got it to do a nice tight stitch on top and on the bottom.

I found that they were very under lubricated from the factory. I used "Marine" grease available at the auto parts store and spent some time putting small amounts of grease on the major moving parts and used a light oil on the other parts (lower bobbin schuttle) , BINGO!! The thing started running like a dream!

Do the grease/lube thing first then make all the mistakes on scrap, this enables you to recognize what needs adjustment while working with it. I always run a test piece with this machine or any other machine I have to make sure I know what the adjustments are.

Rick J.

Edited September 29, 2009 by rickybobby

[Luke Hatley]

capgun kid. after you get it lubed.........tension set right and began to start sewing

.............ARE YOU HOLDING BOTH THREADS TO LOCK A FEW STICHES IN PLACE ??TRY IT.

PS ... I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH LATIGO LEATHER OR THICK ELK

WHEN I AM STICHING VEG TAN LEATHER I USE A THREAD LUCICRANT. AND "I WILL DAMPEN THE LEATHER WHERE I AM STICHING".hang in there and keep tippimans ph number handy ,they will go out of their way to help you.

Edited September 29, 2009 by Luke Hatley

[thecapgunkid]

capgun kid. after you get it lubed.........tension set right and began to start sewing

.............ARE YOU HOLDING BOTH THREADS TO LOCK A FEW STICHES IN PLACE ??TRY IT.

PS ... I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH LATIGO LEATHER OR THICK ELK

WHEN I AM STICHING VEG TAN LEATHER I USE A THREAD LUCICRANT. AND "I WILL DAMPEN THE LEATHER WHERE I AM STICHING".hang in there and keep tippimans ph number handy ,they will go out of their way to help you.

Thanks Luke and Ricky Bobby.

Yeah, I hang on for dear life when locking the stitches. Tension adjustment and lubing seem to be a constant.

What I really wanna know is why the bobbin thread will occasionally tangle. You can't see it happening when stitching ( maybe I'll put a mirror on there) and always end up one or two stitches in the hole before sensing it jam up.

Other than that the tech boys at Tippman appear real helpful, and mine has no trouble stitching with different types of leather.

Thanks, and, don't shoot yore eye out, kid

[DougVL]

"end up one or two stitches in the hole" makes it sound like a failure to feed ahead to the next stitch. Did you mean you get more than one stitch in one hole?

Doug

[sheathmaker]

Thanks Luke and Ricky Bobby.

Yeah, I hang on for dear life when locking the stitches. Tension adjustment and lubing seem to be a constant.

What I really wanna know is why the bobbin thread will occasionally tangle. You can't see it happening when stitching ( maybe I'll put a mirror on there) and always end up one or two stitches in the hole before sensing it jam up.

Other than that the tech boys at Tippman appear real helpful, and mine has no trouble stitching with different types of leather.

Thanks, and, don't shoot yore eye out, kid

Capgun, please don't take offense, but could it be you occasionally "short stroke" your Tippman?

This could cause part of the problem you mentioned. That old pump handle has to be ALL the way up and ALL the way down. Nearly don't count.

Good luck!

Paul

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Hi Capgun, Ok so you have a machine that is probably as old as mine. I found that I was having the same problems as you describe, and this is what I have done. 1) the needle and thread size is critical. I like to use either 347 thread with a 200 needle, or 277 thread with a 160 size needle. They work really well for me on those items that I use the stitcher for, (mostly tack repair and items that I make for the race track, my saddles are almost 100% hand stitched) . 2) Some might disagree, but; this works for me, the trick is that the thread as it fits down through the groove in the needle prior to entering the leather must be just tight enough in that groove, so that when the needle comes back out of the leather, the thread is held in place by the leather, causing it to "loop" to the scarf side of the needle and allow the shuttle hook to pick it up cleanly. Also, 3) In our vintage of machine, the take up arm had a spring compressed against it between the pivot bolt head and the arm to create friction keep it up once the crank was starting down on your next stitch. This does not work very well and allows that arm to drop down too soon and the loose thread to get tangled with the needle and bobbin thread prematurely. I looked on the web sight for Tippman and saw that they upgraded to a positive torsion spring that really holds the take up arm up during needle entry and helps keep tension on the top thread and bobbin threads where they belong during the stitch. This is what worked for me. 4) and like someone else said, proper tension for both the upper and lower threads is critical and can't be over-emphasized. During the summer months I do a lot of reair and fabrication for the race track up here in Michigan, I go through about 4 or 5 spools or thread durring the race meet here. I would never make it if my machine wasn't working properly.

Hope that helps,

Bondo Bob

[Cobra Steve]

Hi Capgun, Ok so you have a machine that is probably as old as mine. I found that I was having the same problems as you describe, and this is what I have done. 1) the needle and thread size is critical. I like to use either 347 thread with a 200 needle, or 277 thread with a 160 size needle. They work really well for me on those items that I use the stitcher for, (mostly tack repair and items that I make for the race track, my saddles are almost 100% hand stitched) . 2) Some might disagree, but; this works for me, the trick is that the thread as it fits down through the groove in the needle prior to entering the leather must be just tight enough in that groove, so that when the needle comes back out of the leather, the thread is held in place by the leather, causing it to "loop" to the scarf side of the needle and allow the shuttle hook to pick it up cleanly. Also, 3) In our vintage of machine, the take up arm had a spring compressed against it between the pivot bolt head and the arm to create friction keep it up once the crank was starting down on your next stitch. This does not work very well and allows that arm to drop down too soon and the loose thread to get tangled with the needle and bobbin thread prematurely. I looked on the web sight for Tippman and saw that they upgraded to a positive torsion spring that really holds the take up arm up during needle entry and helps keep tension on the top thread and bobbin threads where they belong during the stitch. This is what worked for me. 4) and like someone else said, proper tension for both the upper and lower threads is critical and can't be over-emphasized. During the summer months I do a lot of reair and fabrication for the race track up here in Michigan, I go through about 4 or 5 spools or thread durring the race meet here. I would never make it if my machine wasn't working properly.

Hope that helps,

Bondo Bob

Hi thecapgunkid, there might be a burr on the foot, plate or hook that causes the thread to get caught once in a while. Check these parts and make sure that the needle clears without touching these parts. If you see a burr, use some emery paper, or emery cord and carefully sand the burr off. You might even try a buffing or fiber wheel to remove burrs. Thanks, Steve

[oldtimer]

I have an old cast iron Boss, and I have installed a spring to get tension on the take up arm during the whole sewing cycle. The spring has # AR-49 in their new model Boss, and can be ordered from Tppmann. I drilled and tapped a 3 mm hole in the take up arm, installed a screw for the spring, cut off a piece of the existing spring to make room for the new spring. Have a look at the Tippmann website where you can find pics of the interior of your machine and you´ll see what I mean. The spring was an improvement !

/ Knut

Edited October 20, 2009 by oldtimer

[Bar C Leather]

I have the EXACT same problem and I always check the thread tension and needle size to thread size ratio and lube regularly. No burs or hang ups but every once in a while I do get that same entanglement and it really messes up my rhythm. Used to happen more before I figured out "no short stroking allowed!" I must check out the spring though... Mine is probably about 8 years old??? I must admit I don't always lube my thread on veg-tanned leather though. I'll definitely keep that in mind, as veg-tanned is mostly what I work with!

Regards,

Natalie Carroll