Cowboy Holster Tutorial

[Madadh]

Thanks for the tutorial. I just had to try it and had a scoped ruger single six. Here is my attempt.:

[greg77630]

I followed the tutorial and the gun seemed to fit great. But, I am getting scratches on the inside liner. Is this to be expected? Should I have wet formed this around the gun? Should I have made the holster slightly larger? Thank you for your help.

[camano ridge]

Unless your going to coat your gun in rubber you will have scratches. Forming the holster a little more around the gun might have ruduced scratches a little and probably cause more scratches in other areas. What did you seal the inside of the hoslter with?

[greg77630]

I didn't seal the inside. This is just a prototype before I make the real thing.

Also, the gun fits pretty tightly. Is there a way to get it so there is not retention. More for faster draw when Cowboy Action Shooting?

Edited January 18, 2014 by greg77630

[camano ridge]

When I make a holster for fast draw I use two layer glued fuzzy side to fuzzy side any where from 6 - 8oz (each layer) so you end up with a thickness that would be equal to about 12 -16 oz. I lien toward the 16. Do a general forming around the gun, don't do any detail molding. Basicaly you are just forming a bucket. After I wet mold mine I expose it to a little heat to get the drying process under way usually in the oven at about 170 deg for about 10 minutes. Then take it out and let it dry over night (there are many variation on how to dry a holste). You should have a fairly hard holster with out much give.

If the holster you have now is too tight, stick your gun in a ziploc freezer bag stuff the gun and bag into the holster leave it over night. Remove the gun and the bag re insert the gun it should be a little looser. If needed do it again with two bags one inside the other and the gun inside the inner bag. sealing the inside of the holster with gumtrag will make a pretty slick surface and may reduce some of the scuffing. There are many products that can be used to seal and protect the leather.

One other thought, since your holster is a prototype cut the stitching open up the holster put in a welt re stitch the holster. You should have a looser holster. Also before you do that, since you have not sealed the holster wet it and mold it around the gun open the top of the holster up a bit and flair the opening out a little that wil help with reholstering as well. It is a prototype so you can play with it and try some different things to make it work the way you want.

Edited January 19, 2014 by camano ridge

[Dwight]

It looks like there might be a welt in the holster, . . . can't see for sure.

But the scratches seem to be on the outside half of the holster away from the leg. That would indicate to me that the ejector rod is probably hanging up, . . . or scraping badly.

In John Bianchi's holster making videos, . . . he shows opening up the barrel end of the holster with a hammer handle. Yessir, . . . it works.

I got mine at a yard sale, . . . sanded it all down, . . . smoothed it out, . . . greatest tool in the world for SAA holsters.

It will open up that bottom where the ejector rod is, . . . make it smooth and non-catching.

I recommend that tool to anyone making SAA holsters.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited January 19, 2014 by Dwight

[greg77630]

It does have a tapered welt at the top. I might try a full welt.

Dwight, Is the hammer handle used because of a taper or would a dowel work for opening the barrel end?

Camano Ridge, I will try the freezer bag method tonight. I will let you know how it goes.

Thank you both for your advise.

[Dwight]

It does have a tapered welt at the top. I might try a full welt.

Dwight, Is the hammer handle used because of a taper or would a dowel work for opening the barrel end?

Camano Ridge, I will try the freezer bag method tonight. I will let you know how it goes.

Thank you both for your advise.

I use the hammer handle instead of a dowel, . . . because it starts out pretty small, . . . and goes up to pretty big, . . . AND, . . . they come pre-finished so all you gotta do is cut off the part that would go into the hammer head, . . . sand down the very end nice & smooth, . . . you've got a tool.

It then works for lots of different sizes of holsters.

May God bless,

Dwight

[camano ridge]

Ok, looking at the picture closer I do see the welt. Dwight is right about the hammer handle I use one as well.

Edited January 19, 2014 by camano ridge

[Jim]

Ya know I hate to shot John B. in the foot, but have y'all considered widening the holster pattern at the barrel end? Depending on what the holster was being used for (ie. fast draw, mounted, or everyday shooting) I adjusted the lower end width to accommodate the shooters needs. No hammer handle required.

Jim