Members JohnBloch Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 Yo, I know this thread is pretty dead, but I just wanted to ask where edges fit in if I am not using an edge-coat product. Is constructing the piece first more ideal? Aka, dying everything, constructing, and then edging? I'm just worried about using a sealer or finish before I do the edges. Thanks. Oh also Sylvia, I know your post is a year old, but I've just tried both, and as far as a consistent color, I've found that piling after dying works best, and is darker. Quote
Members wlg190861 Posted March 7, 2014 Members Report Posted March 7, 2014 Can you air brush Neat-Lac ? Quote
Members terrypen Posted April 28, 2015 Members Report Posted April 28, 2015 I just found this thread because... well I have not been doing my pieces anything like this... I have been dying with Angelus Dk Brown leather dye and then buffing and then using Tan-Kote or Resolene. Tan-Kote seems to be very streaky after one coat, will it get better with the second? Should I dilute it? Quote TerryPendergrass Leatherworks Pendergrass Leatherworks Facebook W5NRA - Amateur Radio Callsign
Members go2rebecca Posted July 30, 2015 Members Report Posted July 30, 2015 I am returning to a childhood love, leathercraft. I started when I was 11 or 12 and made lots of beautiful items. I have forgotten many things and am so happy for this forum, I learn so much that I never learned before or just plain forgot. I just made a wallet for my husband. I am about to antique it after having dyed the areas I wanted to and then sealed it, but never knew to oil my leather previous to sealing. Sure wish I had read this first. I can't wait to try the oil and see the difference on my next project. Quote
Members club49 Posted March 8, 2016 Members Report Posted March 8, 2016 I hung it on my wall, thank you very much. Jim Quote
Members taf1987 Posted April 23, 2016 Members Report Posted April 23, 2016 Hi, All. I've been able to glean a lot of great information here but still have some questions as I am approaching completion on my first carving piece: a 10 oz. vegetable-tanned cowboy cuff. Post-tooling, I am not dyeing the piece but will be: -stitching along the border and gluing/stitching straps onto the piece -adding snaps -oiling with neatsfoot -edging with gum traganth and applying edgekote -finishing with resolene Now, here is how I am inclined to proceed, and please correct/re-arrange the steps as is necessary: 1) -Clean the piece. There seems to be quite a bit of debris in some of the deeply tooled areas. What is the best method to handle this? My first thought is to use canned air for cleaning keyboards. 2) -Allowing the piece to dry from its "cased" state. How long should I allow for this? 3) -Oiling with neatsfoot oil. I've read that a few coats is ideal with a full day between coats. Any truth to sunlight helping the process? 4) -Punch holes for snaps and pierce leather with stitching irons. 5) -Scuff areas that will take glue to affix the straps to the cuff. (I have Seiwa leather glue from goodsjapan.com) 6) -Add glue and gently clamp together with stitches aligned. 7) -Add stitching. 8) -Add snaps. 9) -Apply black edgekote to edges and burnish. 10) -Apply gum traganth to edges and burnish. 11) -Apply resolene. From what I've read, I am inclined to dilute this even further than the touted 50:50 water/resolene solution and just add more coats of the stuff, lest I end up with a plastic-looking, gummed-up mess. How long should I wait between coats? (I think) that's it! Many thanks in advance for anyone who replies. **I used a casing solution from another thread on the forum, and it is fantastic. Bottled water, listerine, lexol, and baby shampoo. I did have to submerge my 10 oz leather for about two full minutes though -- Anything less did not allow for proper tooling. With this solution, I've been able to work on the cowboy cuff on-and-off for six months. When I'm done for the day, I just case it again with a sponge and quickly double-bag it in my refrigerator. Quote
Members AzShooter Posted February 15, 2022 Members Report Posted February 15, 2022 Glad someone revised this topic. Just the information I was looking for. It's a far cry doing a briefcase compared to finishing one of my holsters but perhaps I should use these same suggestions on all my projects. Now I know I need more supplies. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted February 23, 2022 Contributing Member Report Posted February 23, 2022 On 2/15/2022 at 4:51 AM, AzShooter said: doing a briefcase compared to finishing one of my holsters These "cases" (full zipper) absolutely DO NOT get ant-streak of any kind. I just put the color where it goes (combination of airbrush and red sable hair brushes) and tan-kote applied with the palm of the hand (no sheep wool hairs in the finish). Don Gonzales tools leather very nicely, then - in my opinion - makes the MISTAKE of putting that ant-streak stuff on it. Still looks nice, but not as nice as it did before he pooped on it That stuff reminds me of the sediment left behind after it rains and the puddles dry up... mud in the low spots Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
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