PJ234 Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Hello, I'm a newbie hobby leather maker (made a few knife sheaths and holsters so far) and I've been thinking of trying to make myself a nice heavy gun belt. Is it possible to hand stitch a belt? I'm thinking about how long and fumbly the thread is at the beginning of something small like just a knife sheath, so I think my thread would have to be 30 ft long to stitch all the way around a belt. Is there a trick to stitching a belt that makes it easier or more practical to do by hand? Thanks for any suggestions! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Hand-stitching a belt is a major undertaking, sir. After you do one I doubt that you will want to do another. I hope that you are doing it for yourself, because no one will pay you enough to do one for sale. Best regards. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PJ234 Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Yes, it would be for me and I have lots of time on my hands currently so that's not a big problem. One thought I had was to stitch it in sections using several shorter starting pieces of thread and over/back stitching where the sections meet. This would be easier to handle, but would it make a big difference in the strength or appearance of the finished product? Thanks for the input. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinhopkins Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Hi PJ First of all, no, there's no easy way. (well, there is, but it's called a sewing machine ) And you've got the right idea with the shorter lengths of thread. If you don't do that, you'll end up with grief that you don't want. I've heard of folks actually inadvertantly strangling a housepet while trying to pull 30 ft of thread thru a belt!!! pulling all that thread thru all those holes just isn't a happy deal. it wears the thread out before you can get it all sewn in... But, like I said, it sounds like you've got the right idea! Happy stitching! Kevin@springfieldleather.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PJ234 Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Thanks for the advice, Kevin...strangling of pets doesn't sound worth it. Your sewing machine prompted another thought. Could I assemble it and then take it somewhere (like maybe a saddle shop or shoe repair or something) and have it machine sewn for a reasonable fee, or at that point am I better off just buying a belt from someone already made? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbusarow Report post Posted October 16, 2009 PJ234, It's not that bad. It is time consuming, no doubt about that. Use shorter pieces, I use as much as I can hold with my arms outstretched, somewhere around 6'. Sometimes I make it a little longer than that but not much. Where you join together is just a variation on backstitching. Tie the thread ends together when the first strand gets too short to keep going. Take a new thread and start it 2-3 stitches back. Pull the stitches extra tight for those last couple stitches of the first thread to help eliminate bulk. Here's the thread I started when making my first belt. There's some good comments in the thread. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16905 I've made two more. They get easier, and your hand stitching WILL get better. Either that or you'll quit. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DCKNIVES Report post Posted October 16, 2009 I agree with the others, use shorter pieces and then backstitch.It's not really that bad, just going to take some time.Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Just my little bit of experience as I handstitch all my stuff and have made 4 double layer belts and am working on another. The first one is a pain in the butt, you will realize quickly the above comments how helpful they are. The first one will be a pain, the second one will be alot easier but still kind of a pain, by time your on your third itll be like lets watch a movie and do some stitching. One good thing about doing a few belts, itll make stitching a sheath or something smaller seem like a piece of cake. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted October 16, 2009 (edited) You wont like hand stitching harness traces 5/8" to 3/4" thick then. Tony. Edited October 16, 2009 by tonyc1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bronson Report post Posted October 16, 2009 If you don't have it yet, Al Stohlman's book "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" will clearly show you how to utilize smaller pieces of thread. Are you using a stitching awl or diamond punches. The one belt I made I was still using diamond punches so I chucked the four prong punch in a drill press and used it like an arbor press to pre-punch all the holes. It was much easier than pounding them all in with a hammer. I've since switched to a stitching awl but really have no desire to hand sew another one. But that could change at any moment Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Good morning PJ. As others have said, use a length of thread about as long as you can strech out your arms, you will want to re-wax periodically because as you stitch the stuff will rub off. You might think about only adding a re-enforcing strip where the holster will hang, and stitching that in place first before jumping into a complete belt. That might give you an idea of what you are getting involved in. Just a thought. enclosed is an example pic. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted October 16, 2009 I handstitched my first belt. Never again. Sure, I'm proud it if. It'll last a very long time. However handstitching yards and yards of thread (one piece!) is something I won't probably do again. And I have a machine now Probably a good thing it was a 33" belt huh? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Craw Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Hey PJ243! I agree with everybody who has responded to date, but I didn't see anybody respond to one question you asked. Yes, you certainly could assemble the project and take it to a saddle shop or shoe repair place and pay them to do it. Most shops are used to requests from folks to sew projects that are partially completed, although I'd guess it's somewhat more rare now than years ago. Yes, you can just forget the whole thing and buy something from a big-name manufacturer, but you'll miss out on what may be the single greatest reason any of us is in the position we now find ourselves - Makers! We can honestly say, "Thanks, I'm glad you like it, I MADE it myself!" Caution: Once you make it yourself, you'll never look at a factory made leather item the same way again. Your wife will get sick of hearing, "Geez, they didn't skive the edges before they sewed it! I could make a better (fill in the blank) than that in my sleep and I damn sure wouldn't have put my name on that!" If you are in no rush, take the time to sew it yourself. I second the recommendation to get Al Stohlman;s book on hand sewing. Pay particular attention to the description of keeping the awl in your hand while you saddle stitch. It feels uncomfortable at first, but if you wind up hand making a saddle or similar project, it will save you incredible amounts of time over pick up the awl, stab the hole, put down the awl, sew the stitch, pick up the awl... OK, I'm done preaching. Thanks for letting me vent. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Mike makes a good point about using the awl in hand technique. I had to do it different since I stitch with one hand. What I did was punch all the holes then stitched. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PJ234 Report post Posted October 16, 2009 Thanks for all the responses! I use a diamond punch for making the holes (I've tried an awl and I've tried drilling, and the punch works best for me at this point.) I'll probably give it a try if my hide is big enough (I'm your typical pear shaped American!) and take it to a shop to machine sew if it becomes overwhelming. I've got lots of time (and little money) so I'm not worried about the time aspect as much as how to wrestle 30 ft. of thread. I don't have that particular Stohlman book but I have seen it before. Perhaps I'll pick it up next time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasJack Report post Posted October 17, 2009 The Stohlman book, "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" is a 'must-have'. It specifically addresses things like broken thread, running out of thread, etc. Very easy to follow with lots of diagrams. And it has a lot of specific information on making belts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grunt Report post Posted October 17, 2009 I have hand sewn quite a few belts made from two layers of 8oz saddle skirting and yes it is a pain in the butt. I am, however, glad I made them. After making a few belts, sewing almost any other project by hand is a breeze. Even though I now use my sewing machine for belts and knife sheaths, I know that I can hand sew anything and do it to a high standard. I will probably hand sew another belt for myself before the holidays. I have built a stitching horse of sorts just for stitching and finishing belts that makes life a lot easier. I mainly use it now to hold belts in place for finishing the edges. It's the big "T" shaped thing on the left. I don't use an awl to punch holes however. I use a large needle chucked in my drill press and make the holes that way. The needle does not cut the leather like a drill bit would and it makes perfect holes. I have, by trial and error, determined which size needles work best with which size threads. By pre-punching my holes and using my "stitching horse" I am able to hand sew a belt fairly quickly with a lot less trouble. Using a quality linen thread, properly waxed, in the correct size holes, makes a really nice tight hand stitch. I have never had a problem once I settled on the method that works for me. Not everyone will agree with my sewing method but I think you have to find what works for you. Happy Sewing, Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted October 17, 2009 I have hand sewn quite a few belts made from two layers of 8oz saddle skirting and yes it is a pain in the butt. I am, however, glad I made them. After making a few belts, sewing almost any other project by hand is a breeze. Even though I now use my sewing machine for belts and knife sheaths, I know that I can hand sew anything and do it to a high standard. I will probably hand sew another belt for myself before the holidays. I have built a stitching horse of sorts just for stitching and finishing belts that makes life a lot easier. I mainly use it now to hold belts in place for finishing the edges. It's the big "T" shaped thing on the left. I don't use an awl to punch holes however. I use a large needle chucked in my drill press and make the holes that way. The needle does not cut the leather like a drill bit would and it makes perfect holes. I have, by trial and error, determined which size needles work best with which size threads. By pre-punching my holes and using my "stitching horse" I am able to hand sew a belt fairly quickly with a lot less trouble. Using a quality linen thread, properly waxed, in the correct size holes, makes a really nice tight hand stitch. I have never had a problem once I settled on the method that works for me. Not everyone will agree with my sewing method but I think you have to find what works for you. Happy Sewing, Nick Excellent idea! That long stitching horse would be real handy for hand-stitching a belt. Thanks for sharing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carljc72 Report post Posted October 17, 2009 Nick, I personally agree with your method. I hand stitch everything and came up with a similar method. I also use my drill press with either a round needle or diamond awl blade. I have not done a belt yet but now I look forward to it a little more after reading this thread. Carl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PJ234 Report post Posted October 17, 2009 Nick, that stitching horse looks great for sewing belts...thanks for sharing your idea! I may have to make one of those at some point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChuckBurrows Report post Posted October 17, 2009 Hand-stitching a belt is a major undertaking, sir. After you do one I doubt that you will want to do another. I hope that you are doing it for yourself, because no one will pay you enough to do one for sale. With respect but I sew everything I do by hand since most is historical reproductions and I have done so professionally for over 40 years - this includes belts of which I regularly sew 3-6 a month depending on type of orders. My customers have no problem paying my price and our leather business is my full-time job and our only source of income (our = my wife and I). Nope we're not getting rich, but if you make what folks want they will pay for it. And yes stitchers were used to make old west gear, but they were not widely used until the 1870's and later - much of my work predates that era. As others have said use shorter lengths and just do it. Due to health reasons I pre-punch all my holes and then sew away - for a full lined belt i.e. all 4 sides it takes at most 2 hours to punch and sew. In fact I find hand sewing a good way to relax and as Madmax noted once you get used to it you can do it almost without thinking. The average cartridge belt I sew is 48" long overall length by 3" wide - at 6 SPI that's 612 stitches. Most belts though are old time "money" belts and only one edge and both ends are sewn - that average's 324 stitches per belt. As an example - this entire rig, which includes a full lined belt and holster as well as the two mag pouches, belt pouch, and knife sheath were all hand sewn - and the customer was very happy to get it: When it comes to the business of selling - there are those that drive a Yugo and there are those that drive a Mercedes - and those that buy the Mercedes have no qualms at paying the price. Both will get you where you want to go, but....... Then there's beadwork....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1Man Report post Posted October 17, 2009 Hey there. I've done a few of them by hand. I can't say they're a lot of fun. You just have to get into a rythme and keep going. I found that punching about 10-12 holes and stitching those gives me little goals to work towards. As you "accomplish" each goal by sewing those you'll feel a small sense of accomplishment that'll keep you going long enough until you finish the next set, and so on. Before you know it, you're done. Typically, I'll cut a long enough piece of thread to just do one side of the belt. It's still a lot of thread but, it's better than 30 feet. Just make sure you start at the tip close to where you'll punch your sizing holes and end at the buckle end which is typicall wrapped to the back of the belt anyway. I've also found that wearing latex gloves helps me get a better grip on the needle and reduces the fatigue in my hands. Anyway, just my thoughts. It's definetely worth it when your done. And possibly, just possibly, you'll enjoy it enough that you'll be thinking about your next belt as your stitching this one. Think about different designs and color schemes. Happy Stitching! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bronson Report post Posted October 18, 2009 It's the big "T" shaped thing on the left. Dang it Nick. Now there's another piece of equipment I need to build Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bronson Report post Posted October 18, 2009 this entire rig, which includes a full lined belt and holster as well as the two mag pouches, belt pouch, and knife sheath were all hand sewn - and the customer was very happy to get it: I bet they were. How could someone not be thrilled with that rig, it is absolutely beautiful. Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
