Photo Demo: Making a Biker Wallet

[CitizenKate]

Kate's instructions have been copied into a PDF file

A while back I had posted my biker wallet pattern, and a few people have asked me for more detailed information on how these wallets are put together, as it is not intuitively obvious from just looking at the pattern pieces. It took me a few tries to figure out the construction sequence; the pieces have to go together just right, or you paint yourself into a proverbial corner!

I usually cut the interior pieces from some very light calf skin. But I'm out of that, and I really wanted to do this demo this weekend, so instead I used some light-weight chap/upholstery leather I had laying around. It does not sew up as nicely, and it's a little heavier than I normally like to use for this, but it's good enough for demonstration purposes. I'll probably update this later, when I've got more calf skin to work with.

To start off, here is the pattern, and a couple of photos to give you an idea of what the wallet looks like when completed. If you print out the attached PDF file with no scaling, this will give you all your pattern parts in actual size.

billfold_Bikers.pdf

Here's a view of just a fully-assembled interior, with the cover not yet attached. It's got a zippered coin/key pouch, two bill/receipt pockets, and 3 id/cc pockets. It's a little hard to see here, but there is an eyelet through one corner of the first bill pocket that you can attach a chain to.

Here's a view of the cover. Note the snaps fasten to the front of the coin pouch.

On my next post, we'll get started making one of these.

Kate

billfold_Bikers.pdf

Edited October 7, 2016 by northmount
Added link to PDF

[CitizenKate]

I'm going to start with the interior. Here is pictured all the parts for the interior, all cut out. If you use any veg-tan leather to make these (which I normally do), you will want to apply any color and sealer to all the parts before starting. I numbered the parts for easy referral throughout the procedure.

This shows the back-side of parts 3, 4, and 5, where I have marked the stitching lines.

This shows the order the parts will go together, and which way they will face when assembled.

First, we're going to work on the zipper pouch, part #2. Start by dying and slicking the edge of the slot in the middle, where the zipper will go.

I usually install the zipper using a hand-sewn saddle stitch, but it's perfectly okay to use a machine if you've got one to do this part. Using a pair of dividers, scratch a 1/8" stitching line around the zipper slot.

Mark the stitching holes along the line, going all the way around the entire slot. My own preference is to use the punch only to mark the hole, not to punch it. Then I use a very sharp awl to slice the holes into the leather.

This shows the ziper slot with stitching holes marked.

Glue the zipper to the slot as shown here, and sew it in.

Here's how the zipper looks after being sewn. (This doesn't sew up quite as nice as with calf skin.)

The snaps need to be installed on the zipper pouch before you sew the two halves together, as it is nearly impossible to do so afterward. So we might as well do that now.

Here's what we have so far.

The front pocket also needs to be sewn on before the zipper pouch is sewn together. That's part #1, so take it, and dye and slick its edges all the way around.

Mark stitching holes around 3 sides of the pocket, as shown here:

Glue the pocket onto the front of the zipper pouch as shown. Remember that there will be stitching 1/8" along the bottom edge, so make sure the pocket clears that.

Stitch it down, and this is what you should have so far.

In my next post, we'll add part #3 to the zipper pouch to make the second card pocket and half of the first bill pocket. I hope to finish posting this tomorrow.

Kate

[Timd]

Dang, Kate, you rock! I just printed your pattern last night, and was scratchin' my head on some of it. I sign on today and there's the tutorial!!! Looks like it's going to be a good day, lol.

[McJeep]

You rock! I've got a few buddies bugging me to start making these - guess I caint plead ig'nant no mo ;0) Looking forward to the rest of the thread

[CitizenKate]

Thanks for the comments, guys. Glad to know you're finding this useful!

Okay, next thing we're going to do is take part #3 and mark stitching holes where the lines are for the small pocket on the flesh side.

Then, turn it over and mark stitching holes around the bottom and side edges. This is for later.

Stain and slick the top edge. Apply adhesive along the smaller pocket lines (NOT around the edges), on the grain side. Then lay it grain side down on top of the zipper pocket so that all the edges line up as shown here:

Stitch along the smaller pocket line, and this is what you end up with. Be careful not to cut through the thread in the zipper's seam when you punch holes for the pocket seam. Also, note in the photo that the stitching holes have also been marked on the zipper pouch. You can do that at just about any point in the process.

Now take part #4, and mark stitching holes for its card pocket on the flesh side.

Dye and slick the top edges of parts 4 and 5.

Apply adhesive along the stitch line, on the grain side of part 4, and glue parts 4 and 5 together, with their grain sides facing each other, with all the edges lining up.

Stitch them together, and you now have two partial assemblies.

Now we're going to put the two partial assemblies together to form a bill pocket. Apply adhesive around the bottom and side edges on the flesh side of either part 3 or 4. Then lay 4 on top of 3 with their flesh sides facing each other, like this:

You already have stitching holes marked for this seam on part 3, around the bottom and side edges. Stitch parts 3 and 4 together along that line. This shows which two parts are getting stitched in this step:

Here's what you should have at this point. It's finally starting to take shape!

The last major step is to sew together the two halves of the zipper pouch. Just apply your adhesive to either half (or both, I guess, if you're using rubber cement), press them together with the edges lined up as best as possible, and stitch them together.

Now all the parts are attached, and all the pockets are "functional", except for the second bill pocket, whose other half is the wallet cover.

Finally, spiff up your edges by sanding them to get them evened up, dye, and slick them. No need to finish the edges on part 5 until you attach it to the cover. It probably goes without saying that the better job you do of cutting them out and lining them up, the less work you'll have to do at this point.

And here's the completed interior of your biker wallet! I pointed out a couple of minor boo-boo's I made, so you might possibly avoid them.

In my next post, I gotta figure out something interesting to do for the cover... hmmm....

Kate

[roadking07]

Great pics and tutorial Kate! I can't wait to see how you finish the wallet up.

What type of pen are you using on the edges?

Thanks

MDH

[CitizenKate]

What type of pen are you using on the edges?

It's a new product from MinWax. It contains a spirit-based wood stain, and is designed for touch-ups in wood work, but as you can see, it also makes a great edge dye! You can buy it anywhere you find wood stain products.

Click here to see product info.

Kate

[ClayB]

Very nicely done Kate. Thanks for taking the time to write that up and take all the pictures. When you said you were going to use some upholstery leather you had laying around, I was looking forward to seeing something in an awful shade of pink but this probably was a better choice.

[dscott]

thank you for doing this

helped me a lot

thanks

David

[CitizenKate]

When you said you were going to use some upholstery leather you had laying around, I was looking forward to seeing something in an awful shade of pink but this probably was a better choice.

Heheh! I almost used the pink stuff, just as an inside joke. I don't know if you recognize the stuff I did use, but that is also some of the leather you shipped to me along with the pink stuff. (I like to think of it as more of a "mauve". I'm saving it for something special.)

Kate