Latest step by step seat build

[Storm]

Kate and Storm,

Thanks for the nice comments.  The seat took a bit longer than I expected but I'll blame it on Thanksgiving.... it couldn't be the lazy seat maker.

Dave

Turkigibliti non carborundum-Don't let the turkey grind you down. Next time the bird can get stuffed and you can lace here closed! LOL!

[David]

It is finally finished.

Thanks to all who stopped by this thread to check it out.

I hope I covered some things that were not covered before.

Also thanks for all the encouragement.

Dave

[terrahyd]

david;;; I would hope that is a keeper.....I WOULD NOT WISH TO SEE LEAVE THE SHOP...GREAT WORK DUDE ALMOST MAKES ME WANT TO DO MORE THAN BUCKLES....DOC..........

[cem]

That is absolutely stunning David, I love that rich golden colour on seats I hope it's off to a good home someone who knows how to take good care of it.

Cheers,

Clair

[oldtimer]

WOW, David ! Excellent work ! Thank´s for sharing !

/ Knut

[Gray]

David...thanks for again taking the time to document the process. It was a write-up of one of your seat builds that inspired me to get into bike leather about 4 years ago, which is a big part of what I do now. Now if you would just bottle your talent for design...

I believe I'm gonna be ordering some of that lace...'roo is pricey, but so nice to work with, and I'm guessing it wears well since you've been using it for so long. I've 'bout had it with the cowhide lace...breaks easy like you said, and the quality seems to be going south. I think you've made a believer out of me.

--Phl

[scottishshoemaker]

Dave this and all your seats are top notch sir. Well done man!!

Just one question what space between each hole centre when using 1/4" lace?

[David]

Once again, thanks to all who took time to follow this thread and for the kind words.

They really do mean a lot.

The 1/8" inch holes are about 3/8" on center on the front....very slightly more on the rear leather because it is larger.

Dave

[Macrdhu]

Inspiring!

I'm new to leather craft and have just started my first carving so answers really helpful.

Great to have somewhere to ask questions when some find me.

[tomknox]

first off great seat dave!! few questions: 1) i thought that you were supossed to dye before lacing, do you normally dye after its complete? 2) i looked up those seat pans, do you get the F-T-W seat pan type? their website is a little confusing! 3) also, could you speak a little on your dye methods, products, and the final buff etc...? thanks soooo much! this has been really helpful!

[David]

first off great seat dave!! few questions: 1) i thought that you were supossed to dye before lacing, do you normally dye after its complete? 2) i looked up those seat pans, do you get the F-T-W seat pan type? their website is a little confusing! 3) also, could you speak a little on your dye methods, products, and the final buff etc...? thanks soooo much! this has been really helpful!

Not sure of the pan you mentioned, That (F-T-W) usually means something entirely different to bikers. West Eagle calls this pan their "narrow" pan. I hope that helps. I buy them through a local bike shop about a dozen at a time. That helps with cost.

As for your other questions.

1. I always dye after assembly. The leather becomes much too rigid after dying and doesn't lay correctly or lace properly. I know that is counter to what is done on belts and wallets, but it is what works for seats.

2. I use Fiebings alcohol based dyes. I order directly from Fiebings. The new eco stuff is worthless for a high wear item like a bike seat. It is too fragile and ends up on the riders pants instead of staying on the seat. I spray everything on with an airbrush. I use neatsfoot oil on my entire seat a couple days before spraying the dye. My last step is adding the antiquing, again I use Fiebings ordered through them. I spray a bit of water on the seat before beginning to rub the antiquing paste on by hand. After applying to the entire front or back, it is immediately wiped off and cleaned up before starting on the remaining side. Final buff is with a terry cloth hand towel, I purchase them about 100 at a time from Lowes Home Improvement, paint section. For a final coat I use Aussie Conditioner.... not sure of the manufacturer, probably Fiebings also.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for taking a look at this post

Dave

Edited December 3, 2009 by David

[bustedlifter]

Looks great, Dave! I like the way you used the background just in the middle to bring out the detail. I started trying it in select places instead of around the whole carving. Aussie conditioner is made by Fiebing's. I love their products,too,especially their oil dye. Have you tried their "Snow Proof" conditioner? I've been using it lately and it seems to work really well. It also adds some highlight to the tooling. One more thing; what's the deal with the wood tooling board? Once again, great work and thanks for posting your technique!

Edited December 3, 2009 by bustedlifter

[David]

Looks great, Dave! I like the way you used the background just in the middle to bring out the detail. I started trying it in select places instead of around the whole carving. Aussie conditioner is made by Fiebing's. I love their products,too,especially their oil dye. Have you tried their "Snow Proof" conditioner? I've been using it lately and it seems to work really well. It also adds some highlight to the tooling. One more thing; what's the deal with the wood tooling board? Once again, great work and thanks for posting your technique!

You're the first to notice the wood tooling board..... It is a butcher block made of various woods. It had been in our kitchen for a long time but my wife didn't like it because it is so heavy. The thing is about 1 1/2" thick very flat and just the right size for bike seats. Heavy but lighter than granite.

Dave

[leatheroo]

i am so inspired to do better....thanks

[David]

i am so inspired to do better....thanks

Glad you all enjoyed it.

Thanks,

Dave

[Sanch]

Thanks Storm,

This is pretty tedious cutting and tooling but that's the stuff I enjoy.

Keep checking back, it will eventually be finished.

Dave

I back the leather with packing tape and then rubber cement it to the wood tooling board. The board is 1.5" thick.

Dave

May I ask why and why not just tool on the marble?

Thanks Doc,

It will eventually get finished. I know it doesn't look like much now.

Dave

[David]

At the time I didn't have any small pieces of marble and my bench top Marble is 60"X24" It's kinda hard to spin a piece of marble like that around. But I now have a couple smaller pieces of marble so that is what I now use.

Dave

[Sanch]

At the time I didn't have any small pieces of marble and my bench top Marble is 60"X24" It's kinda hard to spin a piece of marble like that around. But I now have a couple smaller pieces of marble so that is what I now use.

Dave

[/quote

Lol ok makes sense! Hey by the way you sir do out -fng standing work! About the butcher block i just thought it was some sort of hidden voodoo I missed! Oh and thank you for sharing your process it definitely will help on my first seat when I'm ready.

[LilRay]

I'm in on this. Great job Dave!

Will you show assembly steps as well? I hope so. I'm a newbie too, and this may be an avenue I could go in leatherworking.

God Bless, Ray

[pellegrino]

...As usual your work is clean and sharp...showing your work in progress you proves to have strength of character and experience....Thanks David, again

Today I had a few interruptions, The Bengals and the Colts..... So I didn't get quite as much finished as I had hoped.

The tooling continued as did the swivel knife work. I alternate back and forth to give my hands a rest.

Today the Phoenix was almost finished.

Thanks for taking a look.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Dave Theobald

[David]

...As usual your work is clean and sharp...showing your work in progress you proves to have strength of character and experience....Thanks David, again

Thanks for the compliments guy. They are always appreciated.

Dave Theobald

[cowboybob56]

This reply is a lifetime away from your origional post, but, I never got a specific answer to how to size the pattern to the seat pan/padding. Is the top 1/2" or 1/4" larger than the pan and the bottom is how much larger than the top? Or is it just trial and error. I had to resize the last pattern after I got it tooled as it was now quite a bit larger than whe I started(much back ground shading). How do I figure what size before I do all the tooling what size the top/bottom should be?

[Bobby hdflame]

Odin, Good question, there is no reference line, since I use this seat pan frequently, I have a pattern that locates all the holes, so they are traced onto the leathers individually.

Dave

Dave,

This was really a great seat!

How did you originally lay out your hole pattern? How did you space the holes and allow for overhang around the edges? How thick, and where do you get your foam? Density?

I love reading your seat projects. Great write up, and thanks for taking the time to share!

Hey Matt,

I guess the broadest defination of casing is dampening the leather to get it soft enough to begin transfering the design and also begin tooling.

I do it with several applications of casing solution. I've applied the solution with everything from a sponge to a spray bottle. I have used plain water to case for years, on this seat I added some Lexol to the water to help with conditioning the leather. It worked fine so far, I like the way the leather carved with this solution but, I'll withhold final judgement until it is completed.

I hope this helps

Dave

WOW, coming from someone like Bobby, this is a tremendous boost for me. Thank you so much, I'm sure I've said about a hundred times, how much I admire your work.

Thanks again,

David Theobald

What was the ratio of Lexol to water?

[David]

Dave,

This was really a great seat!

How did you originally lay out your hole pattern? How did you space the holes and allow for overhang around the edges? How thick, and where do you get your foam? Density?

I love reading your seat projects. Great write up, and thanks for taking the time to share!

What was the ratio of Lexol to water?

Hey Bobby,

I'm sure I've described this before, but I use tape to draw my patterns. I coat the bottom of the pan with tape , then add 3/8" to the pattern. The holes are laid out about 3/8" apart and bout 1/4" to 3/8" in from the edge. The back is then riveted to the pan, foam is added and beveled on the edge (3/4" foam HD neoprene from Foam and More 1925 W. Maple, Troy, MI 48084 1-248-284-0002). Tape is added over the foam up to the bevel. 3/8" is added to this pattern also. The center holes at top and bottom are punched in the top and tied to the foam/pan/seat back using the center holes in the seat back.....the remainder of the holes are traced onto the front by using the holes already punched in the back.. Not scientific, but it works.

Ratio of Lexol to water....mmm how do I say this...... some to a lot. In other words it isn't critical. Some Lexol to a lot of water. You'll know what is right when you feel how much easier your knife pulls through the leather when you tool.

Hope this helps.

Dave

[SeventhSon]

What are you using for dyes to get that color?