Members LeatherCaptain Posted January 19, 2010 Members Report Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) (I'm posing this question in this forum because I want fellow holster builders to see it. If it get's moved to the dyes/finishes section, I'm afraid the target audience won't read it or respond. So, I'm at your mercy. ) Exterior: I started out using Resolene and then I started adding a layer of wax after the resolene dried. But, I just don't like that plasticy feel that resolene seems to give my holsters. So, I've switched to using Leather Balm w/Atom Wax. That seemed to give me the nice feel i was looking for but, not quite. Oddly enough, when i was applying the leather balm w/ atom wax to one holster, I applied too briskly with a foam brush and it left some airbubbles on the surface. So, I figured I could use a more abrasive material to scrub them down. I picked up the saddle soap soaked canvas that I use to burnish the edges and started scrubbing. The saddle soap seemed to leave a nice soft feel to the leather that I had been looking for and I've been using that method since. Interior: For unlined holsters I have continued to use acrylic resolene. I think it provides the rigidity that is needed and keeps the inside relatively smooth. Although, I have experimented with leather balm, gum trag and even the edge kote. Ultimately, I'm looking for a waxier feel to the inside. So, the search continues. So, what do you guys use? Products? Techniques? Edited January 19, 2010 by LeatherCaptain Quote
Members dbusarow Posted January 19, 2010 Members Report Posted January 19, 2010 For interiors I've started using the glycerine saddle soap bars. Dampen the flesh side lightly then use the glycerine bar as a slicker. Tool and conditioner in one. I really like the result. Exterior I gave up on resolene the first holster I put it on. Like you say I thought it made my beautiful (well passable) leather look like plastic. Still searching but Bag Kote is what I'm using now. Dan Quote Dan Busarow dan@fishcreekleatherworks.com http://www.fishcreekleatherworks.com/
Members katsass Posted January 20, 2010 Members Report Posted January 20, 2010 Well, I also am not enamoured with Resolene. I (believe it or not) use a 50/50 mix of "Mop & Glow". Yep, the stuff for floors. I found out about it a loooong time ago when I was out of the old Tandy "sheene" stuff and started experimenting. I have used it almost exclusively ever since. It's an acrylic, milky liquid. It shoots well thru my airbrush and only produces that 'plastic' finish if you overdo things. I just mist it on my work, let it dry for an hour or so the mist it once more and let 'er dry overnight. When dry you can hit your project with a little wax and buff it out also if you want. As to interiors, I use two layers of leather on almost all holsters. Usually 3/4 oz. or 4/5 oz. depending on the size and weight of the gun. I glue (with a good quality contact cement) the two pieces flesh side to flesh side., then use just as though it were a single thickness of leather. This gives a nice, smooth interior that I treat just as I do the exterior. This little Schrade skinner is one that I have had for over 30 years......the sheath is about 25 yrs old and was shot with Mop & Glow way back then. It has seen a lot of use over the years and the finish seems to have held up well. The little pouch for the M-36 was made about 5 or 6 month ago and also shot with Mop & Glow. Mike Quote NOTE TO SELF: Never try to hold a cat and an operating Dust buster at the same time!! At my age I find that I can live without sex..........but not without my glasses. Being old has an advantage.......nobody expects me to do anything in a hurry.
Members LeatherCaptain Posted January 20, 2010 Author Members Report Posted January 20, 2010 Great comments! Thanks for chiming in and wonderful ingenuity! I just saw a holster I built about a year and a half ago and it still looks great. There's a little wear on the inside of the belt loops (IWB Holster) but, that's to be expected and why they are detachable. Hopefully I'll see it again in another 24 and it looks as good as your sheath! I was reading on the Milt Sparks site that they recommend using Angelus Lustre Cream, Fiebings Carnuba wax (didn't know this existed) or Renaissance Wax to keep the appearance of their holsters. Although, I wonder if this is actually part of their finishing process. Anyone tried any of these products? I 've tried the Renaissance wax as I had some from another project (uhmm, obsession) and buffed out one of my holsters with it after the resolene. It definetely brought out a nice shine but, much too waxy of a feel for the exterior. I might just try it on the interior and see how that works. It should be interesting how well I can get all of the nooks and crannies polished. Quote
Members woolfe Posted January 20, 2010 Members Report Posted January 20, 2010 I use resolene/water 50/50. I just submerge them in a 5 gal bucket and lightly blow off the excess with an air compressor. When I was in the air force, I used Mop and Glow on leather boots to shine the heal and toe. It would crack if you got to far from the toe where the leather flexed. I'm tempted to try diluting it and to see how it works. Thanks for the info! Quote http://www.woolfegunleather.com/
Members Bronson Posted January 20, 2010 Members Report Posted January 20, 2010 I like the finish I've been getting with Feibing's Tan Kote. Bronson Quote
Members Joon1911 Posted January 22, 2010 Members Report Posted January 22, 2010 Well, I also am not enamoured with Resolene. I (believe it or not) use a 50/50 mix of "Mop & Glow". Yep, the stuff for floors. I found out about it a loooong time ago when I was out of the old Tandy "sheene" stuff and started experimenting. I have used it almost exclusively ever since. It's an acrylic, milky liquid. It shoots well thru my airbrush and only produces that 'plastic' finish if you overdo things. I just mist it on my work, let it dry for an hour or so the mist it once more and let 'er dry overnight. When dry you can hit your project with a little wax and buff it out also if you want. As to interiors, I use two layers of leather on almost all holsters. Usually 3/4 oz. or 4/5 oz. depending on the size and weight of the gun. I glue (with a good quality contact cement) the two pieces flesh side to flesh side., then use just as though it were a single thickness of leather. This gives a nice, smooth interior that I treat just as I do the exterior. This little Schrade skinner is one that I have had for over 30 years......the sheath is about 25 yrs old and was shot with Mop & Glow way back then. It has seen a lot of use over the years and the finish seems to have held up well. The little pouch for the M-36 was made about 5 or 6 month ago and also shot with Mop & Glow. Mike Mike, 50/50 mixture of Mop & Glow and what? Quote "Make every product better than its ever been done before. Make the parts you cannot see as well as the parts you can see. Use only the best materials, even for the most everyday items. Give the same attention to the smallest detail as you do to the largest. Design every item you make to last forever." -Shaker Philosophy of Furniture Making
Members katsass Posted January 22, 2010 Members Report Posted January 22, 2010 Mike, 50/50 mixture of Mop & Glow and what? Sorry about that..........50/50 Mop & Glo and water......... My mind moves faster than my two fingers when typing. Mike Quote NOTE TO SELF: Never try to hold a cat and an operating Dust buster at the same time!! At my age I find that I can live without sex..........but not without my glasses. Being old has an advantage.......nobody expects me to do anything in a hurry.
Members pintail55 Posted January 22, 2010 Members Report Posted January 22, 2010 50/50 Reseolene and water. I acually love the outcome Quote
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