Show Me Your Backside Of Holsters Sewn With Boss

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I haven't bought needles in a while - but I purchased them from Tippmann. Someone posted in a thread a month or two ago with a link to a needle manufacturer that showed a ton of different styles of needles and the resulting stitch. Maybe someone will chime in and guide you to that thread.

[TOM123]

I haven't bought needles in a while - but I purchased them from Tippmann. Someone posted in a thread a month or two ago with a link to a needle manufacturer that showed a ton of different styles of needles and the resulting stitch. Maybe someone will chime in and guide you to that thread.

Campbell Bosworth has lots of info here is some links

http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/3_125

http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/supply/needles.html

I have ordered for them all orders came with out a problem, very nice to talk to on the phone, helpful too.

[Leatherbaron]

Okay - I got my Boss, have practiced a bunch with it - at least to the point of using the entire sample bobbin that shipped with the machine, and even made a quick sheath for my round knife. I'm using the standard leather needle and thread that was included with the machine, which I believe is 277.

Last night I attempted to sew my first holster with it. It's obvious I needed a little more practice... One thing I quickly found was that I needed to plan the direction I sew better as the heel of the foot dug into the leather pretty severely where it wasn't flat (was sewing an avenger style). I also think I need to use the overstitch wheel to mark my stitch locations so I can plan a little better for corners and such. Plus, this will allow me to possibly run the wheel over the back side of the leather to round up the stitches and make it look a little cleaner... Some places it looked like the bobbin thread wasn't being pulled up into the leather, while other places (and my practice pieces sewn in the scraps from when I cut out the holster pieces - same leather) looked just fine. One stitch actually skipped as I turned a corner - I ended up pulling all the thread and sewed the opposite direction through the same holes.

Anyway, I'm curious to see what some other holster maker's backside (of their holsters....) looks like for comparison. Maybe since I've been hand sewing I'm expecting too much, but I still think it should look a little better than it currently does. I'll try to post pics tonight. Please show me yours if it was sewn on a Boss.

One of the harness makers I just bought my sewing machine from told me to use next size down thread for the bobbin

compared to your main thread....try that maybet it will make a difference

[Reaper]

Have a question about lubing thread....

I am sending my Boss in for a total rebuild as it will not hold tension and it snaps needles so often that I can not get 2 inches of stitching done before it breaks one.

Anyway, I am also picking up a few of the things I need at the same time to be shipped back with my machine.

Bobbins, Thread, Needles are on the short list, but I was wondering about the Lube Attachment and Lube. Would it be something I could actually get some use out of doing Holsters, Saddle Bags, Belts and possibly Rifle Boots ?

Will it be more trouble using it than it is worth or should I not worry about lube?

[Denster]

Have a question about lubing thread....

I am sending my Boss in for a total rebuild as it will not hold tension and it snaps needles so often that I can not get 2 inches of stitching done before it breaks one.

Anyway, I am also picking up a few of the things I need at the same time to be shipped back with my machine.

Bobbins, Thread, Needles are on the short list, but I was wondering about the Lube Attachment and Lube. Would it be something I could actually get some use out of doing Holsters, Saddle Bags, Belts and possibly Rifle Boots ?

Will it be more trouble using it than it is worth or should I not worry about lube?

More trouble than it is worth. If you are using bonded nylon or poly it is just not necessary.

[Reaper]

More trouble than it is worth. If you are using bonded nylon or poly it is just not necessary.

Thank you Denster. I wish I had read this again before making my order. I'll have to call them in the morning and see about having the bottle and lube removed from the order if I can catch it before shipping. If not, I'll give it a try and see if it does make any difference one way or the other...

[ouchmyfinger]

i know that they have a bolt on the inside of the machine you can reach when u pop the back panel off. this bolt will be what stops the pull handle and if the nut is too far up on the bolt inside then your handle pull is not going down far enough and that is directly related to how far the bobbin is going to turn back and forth and will cause missed stitches, this will cause missed stitches. that being said your handle pull controls the bobbin rotation so if your pulls start lacking then you are going to affect the bobbins rotation and this will affect the loop so you need to have that nut and bolt adjusted and have all your tensions adjusted and don't forget, you are part of the machine. if you change that handle pull at all you'll be the one that causes the missed stitches.

if your pull doesn't go up enough it won't provide enough slack for the loop to free in the bobbin case and if u don't pull down enough then you won't catch that loop, thats the best way i can describe it.

hope this helps

[trekster]

Admittedly, I am new to this forum and am trying diligently to learn the Tippmann Boss that I just acquired (used). After completely dis-assemblying the machine, and putting it back together, with new (and less) lubricant; I am now in the process of learning the finer points of the tension adjustments as well as presser foot pressure. I've already had a few short phone conversations with Ben (at Tippmann) and he has been very helpful in getting me started. Of course I've read almost everything there is on these forums, watched the Tippmann DVD at length and read the manual in my quest to shorten my learning curve.

One thing I would like to toss out, that Ben said to me, has to do with the tension settings between the needle thread and the bobbin thread. I know the manual (and DVD) indicate the bobbin tension should be approximately 1 pound. However, I noted in something I've read from another user that 1 pound is too strong and that bobbin tension should be set lighter, but not so light that the bobbin thread is "free-wheeling". I believe that user also stated stitch quality would be better with the lighter thread tensions.

Ben indicated to me that, "as a general rule of thumb", the needle thread tension, when pulled directly from the tube at the top of the machine, should be about twice the tension of the bobbin thread when pulled up from the bobbin.

In other words, no matter what the bobbin tension is set to, the needle thread tension should be about double that.

I'm wondering if any other users have found this to be the case, or if they have ever measured the different tensions and compared the two; needle thread to bobbin thread?

[Hildebrand]

I know this is a very old thread but I gained a lot of good information from it over the last 3 years as I tried to get my Boss to stitch on any kind of regular basis.  I am posting pictures of a magazine carrier I made, many thanks to JLS leather for the pattern, and would like any suggestions on the stitching and also would ask if other with the Boss have more issues with colored thread than white, I finally got it to sew with the brown but it is much stiffer and more critical on the tension adjustments.  The white just seems to flow.

Thanks,

Todd

[ryano]

I know I am not adding much to this conversation, but I always use a 25(200) needle with 277 and a 26(230) with 346. I, myself do not like the look of the bottom of the stitch when using one thread size smaller in the bobbin.

I wish Tippman would have made the Boss machine to except the 441 series feet so that the harness feet could be used instead of the 111w series feet.