I Need An Assist Regarding Holster Stitching, Please.

[BamBam]

I am interested in making holsters mainly for handguns - auto's and revolvers. I'm just looking to make them for myself and my son right now and am really looking forward to working with leather in general.

So, I read tons of great info here and watched the tutorials many times. Then bought my tools, made a holster pattern, cut out my holster and glued it. Before jumping into the stitching, I thought best to practice on a scrap until I got the hang of it.

This is where I ran into a problem. Piercing the leather is extremely difficult with the awl. I bought veg tanned bellies that Tandy had on sale several weeks ago. They were inexpensive. Very thick. I wanted to use this and then move on to better leather as I progressed. It was next to impossible to pierce and on only the fourth hole the awl "needle" broke off. The tip bent as if it had been smacked onto cement. I was holding the leather tightly and pushing through with the awl, with nothing behind the leather to create this bend.

I was planning on doing the stitching with an awl, as I like the look more than that from drilling holes for the stitching.

Was the leather that I used just too thick for the awl? Was the awl inferior in quality? It was bought at Tandy and was recommended for that specific leather.

I would appreciate any and all advice. I am still looking forward to this and just need a bit of advice to get over this setback, so that I can get going on my first holster. Thanks very much.

[Art]

Your awl should be short sharp and smooth. I haven't seen anything from Tandy that comes that way; doesn't mean it can't be sharpened and smoothed. I generally put a piece of beeswax against the leather on one side and push the awl through from the other. Sharp is important and smooth is more important. Do not let pushing the awl through bend the leather, it can let the awl break or bend, or mess-up where the exit hole is. A good awl can be had from Bob Douglas, for around $20 which is pretty steep, but you'll have it for a while. You can get by with a C.S. Osborne Haft, the Douglas ones are beautiful and priced to match.

Art

I am interested in making holsters mainly for handguns - auto's and revolvers. I'm just looking to make them for myself and my son right now and am really looking forward to working with leather in general.

So, I read tons of great info here and watched the tutorials many times. Then bought my tools, made a holster pattern, cut out my holster and glued it. Before jumping into the stitching, I thought best to practice on a scrap until I got the hang of it.

This is where I ran into a problem. Piercing the leather is extremely difficult with the awl. I bought veg tanned bellies that Tandy had on sale several weeks ago. They were inexpensive. Very thick. I wanted to use this and then move on to better leather as I progressed. It was next to impossible to pierce and on only the fourth hole the awl "needle" broke off. The tip bent as if it had been smacked onto cement. I was holding the leather tightly and pushing through with the awl, with nothing behind the leather to create this bend.

I was planning on doing the stitching with an awl, as I like the look more than that from drilling holes for the stitching.

Was the leather that I used just too thick for the awl? Was the awl inferior in quality? It was bought at Tandy and was recommended for that specific leather.

I would appreciate any and all advice. I am still looking forward to this and just need a bit of advice to get over this setback, so that I can get going on my first holster. Thanks very much.

[Hilly]

I am interested in making holsters mainly for handguns - auto's and revolvers. I'm just looking to make them for myself and my son right now and am really looking forward to working with leather in general.

So, I read tons of great info here and watched the tutorials many times. Then bought my tools, made a holster pattern, cut out my holster and glued it. Before jumping into the stitching, I thought best to practice on a scrap until I got the hang of it.

This is where I ran into a problem. Piercing the leather is extremely difficult with the awl. I bought veg tanned bellies that Tandy had on sale several weeks ago. They were inexpensive. Very thick. I wanted to use this and then move on to better leather as I progressed. It was next to impossible to pierce and on only the fourth hole the awl "needle" broke off. The tip bent as if it had been smacked onto cement. I was holding the leather tightly and pushing through with the awl, with nothing behind the leather to create this bend.

I was planning on doing the stitching with an awl, as I like the look more than that from drilling holes for the stitching.

Was the leather that I used just too thick for the awl? Was the awl inferior in quality? It was bought at Tandy and was recommended for that specific leather.

I would appreciate any and all advice. I am still looking forward to this and just need a bit of advice to get over this setback, so that I can get going on my first holster. Thanks very much.

Chances are your awl blade is dull. Unless you buy from sources other than Tandy, the blades need a good tune-up straight from the box. Try sharpening the blade, and once it's sharp, stick the tip into a block of beeswax often while you stitch. It helps the blade to pierce and pass through the leather easier.

It also helps to strop your awl periodically.

I also wonder if using a firmer leather would make stitching easier? .

Also, I hope you don't plan on making any holsters out of belly leather... you won't be happy. Belly is very, VERY sssstrrrreeeetchyyyyy! You can use belly for practice stitching, carving or stamping, or for very small items, such as rounders or key fobs or hair barrettes, and things that don't take a lot of abuse.

[Denster]

What Art said is exactly right. With a properly sharpened and polished awl it will go through over 1/2in of firm veg tan with hardly any resistance. The idea of a block of beeswax as a backer is invaluable I use a oblong block of wood with a trough in it filled with beeswax. It lubes the awl and keeps my digits out of the way.

[BamBam]

Thanks very much for the advice. I will be shopping around for a quality awl now. I remember reading about using beeswax as well and evidently forgot that. (Age, you know?)

The belly leather was just so that I could get the hang of it and hopefully get good enough so that when I moved onto a better quality, I wouldn't waste it.

This awl had a 1.5" blade - is that too long? What would be the ideal length blade for this particular use?

Denster - "I use a oblong block of wood with a trough in it filled with beeswax. It lubes the awl and keeps my digits out of the way." Would you happen to have a photo of this? Sounds like a good finger saver for a newb like me.

Thank you again everyone for the great advice and tips. I appreciate it very much.

[olliesrevenge]

I am a beginner as well and am working on only my 6th holster, so I am by no means an expert. However, I have recently gotten my hand stitching dialed in to where I am comfortable with it.

I too started out with an awl from Tandy that in my opinion was too small. The blade was only about 7/8" long and there was a cylindrical brass collet at the base of the blade that would consistently mar the leather if I pushed the blade in too far. Sewing with that thing was ridiculous, and in my opinion made a difficult task even harder than it should be.

I went to Macphersons here in Seattle and bought a C.S. Osborne Awl haft and a 2" awl blade. I then sharpened the tip and both edges, and polished all 4 facets of the blade, not just at the tip but all the way up the blade. In other words, since the awl blade actually has the profile and look of a extremely miniature medieval sword, I sharpened it as if it were a sword (I did this on the advice of a guy who has done a whole bunch of hand sewing).

For the 1st step I laid some 400 grit sandpaper on top of my leather strop board and , one facet at a time, wiped the awl blade diagonally away from the tip and from the edge being sharpened. Then I repeated the whole process with 600 grit. Then I repeated it all again on my crude & homemade leather strop board rubbed with jewelers rouge.

As long as I keep the thing polished all the way up the blade it goes through 2 layers of 7/8 oz veg tan real easily, no wax required.

I haven't done it yet, but I am considering doing a gentle polish on it with some Flitz and my dremel tool.

It's all about having the whole blade polished, and sharpened like a razor not just at the tip but on the edges too.

Take care,

Lance

[Denster]

Thanks very much for the advice. I will be shopping around for a quality awl now. I remember reading about using beeswax as well and evidently forgot that. (Age, you know?)

The belly leather was just so that I could get the hang of it and hopefully get good enough so that when I moved onto a better quality, I wouldn't waste it.

This awl had a 1.5" blade - is that too long? What would be the ideal length blade for this particular use?

Denster - "I use a oblong block of wood with a trough in it filled with beeswax. It lubes the awl and keeps my digits out of the way." Would you happen to have a photo of this? Sounds like a good finger saver for a newb like me.

Thank you again everyone for the great advice and tips. I appreciate it very much.

Camera is on the fritz. It is just a 3"x1"X1/2" block of wood with 1/2" deep trough. I hold it in my left hand on top of my stitching horse jaws against the leather I'm sewing to support the leather and catch the tip of the awl in the beeswax as it comes through. The beeswax lubes the awl an makes it slide in and out very nicely.

[olliesrevenge]

I generally put a piece of beeswax against the leather on one side and push the awl through from the other.

The idea of a block of beeswax as a backer is invaluable I use a oblong block of wood with a trough in it filled with beeswax. It lubes the awl and keeps my digits out of the way

Beeswax as a backer! What a light bulb moment! No more occasional bloody fingers from using the "three finger tripod brace" method.

Your awl should be short sharp and smooth.

Art, I understand sharp and smooth, but why short?

[Dwight]

Necessity may be the mother of invention, . . . but laziness was Invention's father.

First, get some chisel point leather needles (Tandy sells them), get a spool of thread for this also. I like size 346, personally. Buy needles that will allow the thread through the hole, . . . and then if you hold the thread taught between your hands, . . . the needle will slide down the string using only its own weight.

Put the needle in a cheap $39.95 Harbor Freight drill press, . . . then unplug the thing.

Drill a 1/4 in hole in the center of a flat sanded 1 x 10 about 24 inches long, . . . screw it down to the drill press table so the hole is directly below the needle and the needle can go through it.

Cut a piece of thread about 4 times as long as your stitching plus 24 inches.

On the first hole, . . . pull the thread through the leather piece, . . . now you have half the thread above and half below the object you are stitching. Move the needle back up and out of the leather, . . . then force it down at the next hole, . . . then pull up slightly, . . . creating a small loop under the leather piece, . . . thread the other end through that loop, . . . then pull the needle up and out of the leather.

Pull both ends until you have the place that the threads cross up in the center of your project, . . . you have made your first stitch.

Keep up doing that and you can sew anything in about 2/3 the time it takes to hand sew with an awl (at least for me it seems that way).

You'll have a bit of aggravation at first until you figure out how to hit the correct loop underneath your project, . . . but once you figure that out, . . . happy stitching.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited March 18, 2010 by Dwight

[BamBam]

As a follow up - if I went the route of getting an awl that takes replaceable blades, what would be the best size blade to use. Mostly on holsters with a nice heavy leather.

Length and size. Again, thanks for any help you can provide.

[Bronson]

Necessity may be the mother of invention, . . . but laziness was Invention's father.

I would LOVE to see some pics of this setup if you've got them.

Oh, and for the OP if you haven't yet picked it up Al Stohlman's book "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" is a great resource. It will show you the techniques you'll need to get you started.

Bronson

[Art]

By short, I mean 1" to 1.5", maybe 2 on the outside, but that would be way too long for me. I have seen them as short as .75 inch and I liked it on thinner leather. The shorter the awl, the faster you can stitch, and the less chance of scratching or impaling yourself, and with the edges of the awl as sharp as they should be, those scratches can go a little deep.

For holsters, the standard size is what I use (Bob Douglas sizing, he makes one a little smaller too).

Art

Art, I understand sharp and smooth, but why short?

[electrathon]

As a follow up - if I went the route of getting an awl that takes replaceable blades, what would be the best size blade to use. Mostly on holsters with a nice heavy leather.

Length and size. Again, thanks for any help you can provide.

If you mean the one that Tandy sells all of the blades are way huge for what you are doing. It is the only one I know of with replaceable blades.

Aaron

[Tac]

I too started out with an awl from Tandy that in my opinion was too small. The blade was only about 7/8" long and there was a cylindrical brass collet at the base of the blade that would consistently mar the leather if I pushed the blade in too far. Sewing with that thing was ridiculous, and in my opinion made a difficult task even harder than it should be.

If you take a small peice of scrap leather (the thicker the better) cut it into a small circle about the diameter of the handle of your awl, then poke the awl blade through the middle and leave it on the base of the awl blade (between the collet and the material you are working on), it will act as a "sheild" and prevent the marring problem you are having....

Just my dos centavos...

-Tac

[BamBam]

If you mean the one that Tandy sells all of the blades are way huge for what you are doing. It is the only one I know of with replaceable blades.

Aaron

I was thinking of something along the lines of this

http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/1_2_122

With blades -

http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/1_2_121/sort/3a/page/2

Seems like that would make it a bit easier to change out a blade if damage did happen. I'm learning that Tandy is not the one stop place for what I need.

[Hilly]

I was thinking of something along the lines of this

http://www.campbell-...p/cPath/1_2_122

With blades -

http://www.campbell-.../sort/3a/page/2

Seems like that would make it a bit easier to change out a blade if damage did happen. I'm learning that Tandy is not the one stop place for what I need.

If you want a really nice awl, call Bob Douglas 307-737-2222. You won't be disappointed

[doubleh]

Like most thing I do now I'm a few days late to this post.

Artheritis has really done a number on my joints the last few years so I have devised an easier way to do things than just push the awl thru the leather. I still start out just like I was just using an awl, glue the pieces together, cut the groove and run the overstitch wheel. But then I take the piece to the drill press and drill all the holes with a 1/16" bit. I use a smaller bit when using smaller thread. Then I use the awl with beeswax which makes things a lot easier physically. You can forego the awl and just use the drilled holes but it doesn't look the same as using an awl. The thread seems to lay down smoother in the diamond shaped hole than in a round hole.

[Jim March]

Is anybody else pre-drilling holes with a dremel tool?

When I first did this my smallest drill bit was too big. I finally found a set of "sub-caliber" drill bits - shaft fits in the most common dremel "chuck adapter" but the actual drill is much smaller, perfect for stitch size holes. No jabbing with an awl needed and the stitching can be done with any standard pair of needles big enough for the thread.

So far I've been using mine by hand but I'm going to score the small "drill press adapter" next, less than $40. I still won't be able to use it on all the holes though, some I do freehand while the leather is folded around in a holster shape so that I drill two layers through in the proper "curve". In other words, if one piece of leather is going to be stitched to another while they're folded around the gun in the final design, drilling both while they're flat won't work. You have to drill while they're folded and that means freehand dremel (drilling on pre-marked dots!) versus a drill press.

[TexasJack]

A few observations:1. Using an awl takes a bit of practice. I'd suggest using thinner leather to start with.2. Awls from Tandy are OK, but not always sharp and (in my experience) not always the same diameter! I had one that made a great hole but the needle wouldn't go through when I went to sew.3. Drilling holes works, but using an awl is much better as it doesn't remove any leather and that means the thread will be held tightly.

[JoelR]

Tandy now sells Osborne Hefts and a few types of Awls as separate items. The awls I have gotten are sharp but do need polished. Hefts are either the standard push-in or ones with a brass chuck. The awls are not made of the best metal either - they will bend. For the limited work I do (A holster about every 2 weeks with odds-and-ends thrown it to keep it interesting) they work fine.