Members Penden Posted April 29, 2010 Members Report Posted April 29, 2010 We just bought a delta grinder (6") to help us finish edges faster http://www4.shopping.com/xPO-Delta-Delta-GR275-6-Variable-Speed-Grinder-W-Tool-Less-Quick-Change We put a soft cloth buffing wheel on it. Problem is, it just doesn't do the job even with liberal amounts of saddle soap and water applied directly to the leather. I think the wheel is just too soft. Obviously the grinding wheels are not soft enough. Is there anything we can do about this or is this machine just not going to work for edge finishing? Quote
Contributing Member rdb Posted April 29, 2010 Contributing Member Report Posted April 29, 2010 I don't belive it will work. The buffing head has to be soft enough to form a groove to the shape of the edge, and be slow enough to not burn. On some production runs, I use a 4" polishing/buffing head in my small drill press. One for brown, one for black, one for neutral. I apply wax to the head, and press the edge into it. It forms a groove nicely into the buffing head, and slicks up fine for me. There is a machine designed specifically for mechanical burnishing. I don't remember off hand, but someone will. He has posted here at LW. Do a search for edge burnishing, it should come up. Quote
Members DCKNIVES Posted April 29, 2010 Members Report Posted April 29, 2010 Your not going to have much luck with that setup.The setup RDB talks about would be a good one and economical.Sanding edges requires slower speeds and I use my Variable Speed belt sander which works great but is not cheap.I also make knives so it was needed but at $2500 might be to pricey for most leathersmiths.Dave Quote
Moderator Art Posted April 29, 2010 Moderator Report Posted April 29, 2010 Generally it won't work. The machine needs to be slower (about 1750 rpm works) and the wheel needs to be harder (oily wood or veg tan leather or felt). I use felt (medium which is actually quite hard) and work a groove in with a piece (or several) of hard veg tan, use some bees wax while working the groove into the felt. If you have a drill press, that will work also. I also have a geared head lathe which I have used, but kind of a lot of machinery to have spinning when a buffer will do, I have a little Baldor 1/4 hp that I use. Art We just bought a delta grinder (6") to help us finish edges faster http://www4.shopping.com/xPO-Delta-Delta-GR275-6-Variable-Speed-Grinder-W-Tool-Less-Quick-Change We put a soft cloth buffing wheel on it. Problem is, it just doesn't do the job even with liberal amounts of saddle soap and water applied directly to the leather. I think the wheel is just too soft. Obviously the grinding wheels are not soft enough. Is there anything we can do about this or is this machine just not going to work for edge finishing? Quote
Members Ken Nelson Posted April 30, 2010 Members Report Posted April 30, 2010 Generally it won't work. The machine needs to be slower (about 1750 rpm works) and the wheel needs to be harder (oily wood or veg tan leather or felt). I use felt (medium which is actually quite hard) and work a groove in with a piece (or several) of hard veg tan, use some bees wax while working the groove into the felt. If you have a drill press, that will work also. I also have a geared head lathe which I have used, but kind of a lot of machinery to have spinning when a buffer will do, I have a little Baldor 1/4 hp that I use. Art We are working on a protype Edge Burnishing machine at the present. I will post as soon as we get it done and tested. Ken Quote
Members Mongo Posted May 1, 2010 Members Report Posted May 1, 2010 (edited) I did what RBD mentioned in his post. I laid a small drill press on its side. I used a small sanding drum for holster welts and then I made a burnishing wheel from 1 1/2" stacked felt circles on a long threaded bolt for burnishing. I used this method for a couple of years. A few months ago I bought another small drill press for $49 from Harbor Freight. I didn't fully assemble it. I just stuck the head in a cardboard box. Not having the steel pipe in the way gave me a lot more room when sanding and burnishing. One of these days I'm going to get it out of the box and build a decent stand for it, but it sure works very well. I found the felt disks on Amazon and just stuck a bolt through them. Edited May 1, 2010 by Mongo Quote
Members Penden Posted May 5, 2010 Author Members Report Posted May 5, 2010 Thanks, guys, this helps us at least know that it's not just something we're doing wrong when we are trying to use this thing Quote
Members Romey Posted July 26, 2010 Members Report Posted July 26, 2010 My KMG runs with 2 inch contact wheels and I had a 1/2 belt on it allowing some of the smooth aluminum wheel exposed so on a whim i burnished the edge of a sheath on it, wow really did work great. couple minutes later and a antler rub touch up and its shiny n slick Quote
Members iwannabeacowboy Posted July 26, 2010 Members Report Posted July 26, 2010 I bought one of these last year and have nothing but good things to say about it. charlie http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Even-Better-Fantastic-Leather-Burnisher-/320555939231?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa29f759f Quote
Members BrianBoyles Posted July 9, 2011 Members Report Posted July 9, 2011 I bought one of these last year and have nothing but good things to say about it. charlie http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item4aa29f759f Using the aluminum wheel on the Kmg. That is a good idea. I am going to try that tomorrow Quote
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted July 9, 2011 Ambassador Report Posted July 9, 2011 I did what RBD mentioned in his post. I laid a small drill press on its side. I used a small sanding drum for holster welts and then I made a burnishing wheel from 1 1/2" stacked felt circles on a long threaded bolt for burnishing. I used this method for a couple of years. A few months ago I bought another small drill press for $49 from Harbor Freight. I didn't fully assemble it. I just stuck the head in a cardboard box. Not having the steel pipe in the way gave me a lot more room when sanding and burnishing. One of these days I'm going to get it out of the box and build a decent stand for it, but it sure works very well. I found the felt disks on Amazon and just stuck a bolt through them. Thinking in the Box................ Quote
electrathon Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 Penden, You have two issues that are stopping your set-up from working. You need a hard wheel. The buffing wheel you are using is just not going to cut it. You need it to be out of hard wood, hard felt (soaked with wax to make it harder) or something along those lines. Even more of an issue though is that your grinder is turning way to fast. The grinder listed is going at 2000 rpm at the slowest. With a 6" wheel on it you are turning it more than 3 times as fast (the distance traveled on the surface) as a more common 2" wheel like is in one of the pictures above. If you had a very small wheel on your grinder you likely could use it, but it is just not the proper motor for what you are trying to do. The drill press idea is likely the simplest and is a cheap way to go. Quote
Members beans Posted July 9, 2011 Members Report Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) I did what RBD mentioned in his post. I laid a small drill press on its side. I used a small sanding drum for holster welts and then I made a burnishing wheel from 1 1/2" stacked felt circles on a long threaded bolt for burnishing. I used this method for a couple of years. A few months ago I bought another small drill press for $49 from Harbor Freight. I didn't fully assemble it. I just stuck the head in a cardboard box. Not having the steel pipe in the way gave me a lot more room when sanding and burnishing. One of these days I'm going to get it out of the box and build a decent stand for it, but it sure works very well. I found the felt disks on Amazon and just stuck a bolt through them. Good job on your holster edges. Edited July 9, 2011 by beans Quote
Members carver Posted April 26, 2015 Members Report Posted April 26, 2015 I bought a used 1750 rpm 1 horse motor off Craig list years ago mounted it on a board with a on off switch . . I make discs out of hard 100% wool saddle pads. Weavers leather sell padding I believe .the synthetic pads will melt I am told . center punch the disc then turn it on true it up with a rasp to get it truley round because never seem to hit dead center for the arbor to go thru . it works pretty good for stuff I dont need a hard glass finish on but doesnt compete with a hand rubbed edge in my opinion Quote
Trox Posted April 26, 2015 Report Posted April 26, 2015 With the new Giardini leather edge paint, all you need is a sander http://www.leatheredgepaint.com/ But perhaps yours a bit of a overkill Buy the way, that Giardini edge paint was very good, a true time saver with a great result. Check it out. Tor Quote
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