Problem with letter carving...

[TheTrooper]

Dear all,

today I did the following practice piece:

My Question is how can I avoid the huge gap between the letter and the beveled part, or how can I smooth it in a way that it´s not vissible anymore?!?

Or did I something generally wrong (maybe in the way I cutted) ? I know that I have to improve my cutting a lot, but this is "just" a practice matter.

THX a lot in advance,

Marcel

[ClayB]

That's a really good question. I have had the same problem a lot lately. I am wondering if the swivel knife is cutting to deep? I noticed it happening more for me since I got a couple blades from Bob Beard that are a lot sharper than what I used to use.

[Regis]

I seem to have that often and have to go back over. I think(?) I tilt the beveler against the cut and the bottom moves out. But, I don't catch it 'while' I'm tooling just after when I'm looking it over.

[Michael]

That's a really good question. I have had the same problem a lot lately. I am wondering if the swivel knife is cutting to deep? I noticed it happening more for me since I got a couple blades from Bob Beard that are a lot sharper than what I used to use.

I have this problem when I bevel deeper than my swivel knife cuts. It may also be do to the beveler being tipped away from the cut. Hopes this helps.

[TomSwede]

I feel the same way about this and just haven't found a way to solve it, if there is any. To minimize the problem I try to produce as smooth and clean carving lines and cuts as possible, like when going around tiny minimal awkward corners (a lot of that with letters) or when you're carving into the center of a spiral, it is easy to get bad cuts (chewing the edges of the part to appear raised) . Holding the knife straight (no side tilting)is also important.

You could always try with beveling without carving and see how this works for you, i've just never gotten around to it.

Tom

[Rawhide]

I think you're cutting too deep. When you bevel your work, the leather surrounding the cut, can't be compressed enough to "fill in" the gap.

Marlon

[TheTrooper]

..THX a lot guys. I will practice more and consider your hints.

I will tell you about the results.

Cheers,

Marcel

[Tina]

I had the same problem with the "old" blade I was using (ordinary wide blade) Since using the filigree blade the problem seams to have vanished even when I give the beveler a good smack:-) The cuts don't get as deep and the gap is much finer (sometimes hard to see, that's the only drawback)

[PeterMain]

...you should allow your leather to loose some more moisture before you cut and bevel this detail. What I see here is 'shrinkage' upon drying, because of a high moisture content while working.

[kseidel]

I support Peter's reply. Let your leather dry more before stamping. The most common mistake made in tooling and stamping is trying to stamp leather that is too wet. In this case the beveler is actually tearing the leather away from the cut line. When the leather is dry enough the color will be the color of dry leather and when you stamp, the tool impression will burnish dark into the leather without tearing any fibers. Practice stamping with drier and drier leather untill the leather is so dry that the tool bounces off of the surface and does not make much of an impression; then you will know what is too dry. I think you will be surprised at how much drier the leather needs to be to make a good impression.

Keith

[CitizenKate]

Good to see you, Peter! Very glad you could join us.

Kate

[Gibbsleatherworks]

From what Ive been told, it should look somewhat dry to the appearence but if it still feels cool against your face it still has enough moisture in it to tool.