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I've picked up here and there about how much crystals to so much water but can't recall anything noteworthy beyond that. Would someone run us through from the start? The ratio, hot or cold water, (I mixed it in screaming hot water and after it cools down, there's still some drop out). Then, how to work it, cloth, dauber, sponge? Any cleanup or dressing after or before dyeing? Wet leather, dry leather cleaning.............might need a pinned tutorial maybeso!

Terry

www.singletreeleather.com

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As far as mixing the solution, I have never worried about being really "exact." I'm using some wood bleach crystals from Home Depot which is oxalic acid.

I use about two rounded teaspoons in a quart of water. I have used warm tap water not "screaming hot."

My understanding is the reason for using warm/hot water is just to speed up the disolving into solution process.

When I have used these proportions there has been no settling out of excess crystals. I would be afraid that if excess crystals are settling out of the solution when you are mixing it you have a super saturated solution and I would be afraid that is too strong. A little of this stuff goes a long way.

I always swish the solution around in the jar each time before I used it.

Also in the proportions I use the solution works well in that it will clean off most all the spots and contamination that might end up on your project.

I think it's wise too err on the side of conservatism and start out with a weaker solution and if it isn't getting the job done gradually increase the strength.

I don't want the solution too strong. This stuff is not good for veg tanned leather and I consider it a "necessary evil," I think it takes out some of the natural oils in the leather. Too much will really dry to leather out and make it brittle.

In a perfect world I would be able to keep my work piece perfectly clean and pristine and would never have any "stuff," to clean off.

I apply it sparingly with a sheepskin patch.

In the strength I'm using it takes a minute or two for black spots I'm wanting to remove to go away. So I apply some of the solution to the spots ( I don't drench or soak the leather,) then wait until the area dries out and see if that does the trick. If not I keep cautiously reapplying until things are cleaned up.

I suppose it would be smart to put on a latex or vinyl glove to keep the solution off you fingers but I normally don't take the time to do that.

After I have cleaned the piece to my satisfaction and it is dry I apply a light coat of olive oil or neatsfoot to replace the oils removed from the wetting/casing/stamping/cleaning.

I hope this is helpful.

I've picked up here and there about how much crystals to so much water but can't recall anything noteworthy beyond that. Would someone run us through from the start? The ratio, hot or cold water, (I mixed it in screaming hot water and after it cools down, there's still some drop out). Then, how to work it, cloth, dauber, sponge? Any cleanup or dressing after or before dyeing? Wet leather, dry leather cleaning.............might need a pinned tutorial maybeso!

Terry

www.singletreeleather.com

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I would be very careful if using very hot water as you are more likely to be inhaling the vapour that would contain acid! I would recommend using very warm water but not enough to see the vapour. Best doing it outside or under fume/oven extractor.

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1 Teaspoon of Oxalic Crystals to 1 pint of warm water is the correct mix. Let it cool before using though, or use a small amount of hot water to dissolve, then add cold.

The thing to watch is Bleaching. To avoid this Wash the dirty Leather evenly using Cotton Cloth soaked in the mixture. Let it soak for a short while to dissolve the dirt then wash with a diluted Soapy Water. I prefer Glycerine Saddle Soap wiped on the Cloth I used to put the Acid mix on with, then soaked with tepid Water. Let it dry and you should have an even finish on the Leather as the Saddle Soap replaces the Oils taken out by the Acid. I always do the whole area as I've found that to concentrate just on spots will leave the finish blotched and it becomes more noticeable as the Leather ages.

Oxalic is a wonderful friend when you are careful, but a Bad enemy if used too much. It will send Embossing (Dry) Leather Pink if you use it without washing it out when it finishes cleaning.

I hope this of help.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

As far as mixing the solution, I have never worried about being really "exact." I'm using some wood bleach crystals from Home Depot which is oxalic acid.

I use about two rounded teaspoons in a quart of water. I have used warm tap water not "screaming hot."

My understanding is the reason for using warm/hot water is just to speed up the disolving into solution process.

When I have used these proportions there has been no settling out of excess crystals. I would be afraid that if excess crystals are settling out of the solution when you are mixing it you have a super saturated solution and I would be afraid that is too strong. A little of this stuff goes a long way.

I always swish the solution around in the jar each time before I used it.

Also in the proportions I use the solution works well in that it will clean off most all the spots and contamination that might end up on your project.

I think it's wise too err on the side of conservatism and start out with a weaker solution and if it isn't getting the job done gradually increase the strength.

I don't want the solution too strong. This stuff is not good for veg tanned leather and I consider it a "necessary evil," I think it takes out some of the natural oils in the leather. Too much will really dry to leather out and make it brittle.

In a perfect world I would be able to keep my work piece perfectly clean and pristine and would never have any "stuff," to clean off.

I apply it sparingly with a sheepskin patch.

In the strength I'm using it takes a minute or two for black spots I'm wanting to remove to go away. So I apply some of the solution to the spots ( I don't drench or soak the leather,) then wait until the area dries out and see if that does the trick. If not I keep cautiously reapplying until things are cleaned up.

I suppose it would be smart to put on a latex or vinyl glove to keep the solution off you fingers but I normally don't take the time to do that.

After I have cleaned the piece to my satisfaction and it is dry I apply a light coat of olive oil or neatsfoot to replace the oils removed from the wetting/casing/stamping/cleaning.

I hope this is helpful.

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I've picked up here and there about how much crystals to so much water but can't recall anything noteworthy beyond that. Would someone run us through from the start? The ratio, hot or cold water, (I mixed it in screaming hot water and after it cools down, there's still some drop out). Then, how to work it, cloth, dauber, sponge? Any cleanup or dressing after or before dyeing? Wet leather, dry leather cleaning.............might need a pinned tutorial maybeso!

Terry

www.singletreeleather.com

Terry,

I have seen it used a little in small spots on leather, Be carefull, it will bleach it to a pink color, I think the ratio that others have mentioned would be best. The way I saw it mixed was "some" (unkown amount) in a baby food jar mixed with cold water. Use gloves!!!! Bruce at Ben's Saddlery in Wickenburg swears that the tips of his fingers are numb from using this stuff years ago without gloves. I don't know if it is so but he is pretty sure so the times I used it I wore the rubber gloves!!!

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I/ve used it for years. it will clean[bleach] leather. the water will only dissolve so much keep it in a plastic bottle. once you've wiped down a project. rinse it off the project and let dry over night. I would use rubber gloves. as for exposure never thought about it , has that acid odder but only faint . but who knows it might be killing me and I just don't know it.  it will remove smudges from handling the project before its dyed and all. never knew about the wood bleach  acid thing so I've learned something

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has anyone tried this

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-1-gal-All-In-One-Wood-Cleaner-06301N/203200559

Its supposed to be up to 5% oxalic acid and it is locally available. I have a roll of 6 oz leather that is giving me fits. Looks like something was splashed on it before I got it and it doesnt show up as marks strangely until after I dye. I have looked at it under different lights and at different angles and I cant see anything but dye it ... Screwed. I hate to throw it away. . I dont have money like that so if I can save it I would like to. I can only seem to find the oxalic crystals at amazon but then I have to wait.

Edited by Boriqua

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