Tooling Distortion

[bkingery]

Hi all, I have done a few projects but my tooling always seems to distort when I pull the posterboard backing off when I am all done tooling. I have tried using more rubber cement, less cement all to no avail and when i try to tool without a backing the whole piece stretches out and is not usable. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated because I want to start making stuff to sell eventually.

Thanks

Bryan

Edited August 27, 2010 by bkingery

[terrymac]

Rather than using poster board, get some plexiglass. You might also try using some 3M packing tape on the leather first, and then glue to the plexiglass. I have not had anything distort since I started doing this. You can get it at Lowe's-Home Depot, and is easy to cut different sizes.

Hope this helps

Terry

[customcowboyleather]

Hi all, I have done a few projects but my tooling always seems to distort when I pull the posterboard backing off when I am all done tooling. I have tried using more rubber cement, less cement all to no avail and when i try to tool without a backing the whole piece stretches out and is not usable. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated because I want to start making stuff to sell eventually.

Thanks

Bryan

Bryan,

go to the dollar store and get some clear shipping tape and overlap the tape on the back of your project. it will help you get a cleaner finished product. Also, you might look into Barry King "slicker:", to slick the front of the leather before taping the back, It is just a thick piece of glass with round edges that you push over leather before you tool it, This will help elimenate some of the stretch caused by tooling.

If you dont want to buy an expensive one, Just to down to your local glass shop, and have them cut you a piece of really thick glass about 6inches by 4 inches and round the corners, and the edges. it shoud cost you about $5 and will work the same as one that costs $80. Hope this helps,

Justin Alps

[BarryS]

I agree with Terry although I do not use tape. Using plexiglass will help tremedously. Also I only use regular rubber cement and not any type of Barge cement or others. I have found that Barge or Tandy's equivalent tend to hold alot better, however when I do try to pull my project off of the plexiglass it stretches and causes distortion in my projects. You can get a chunk of plexiglass at Home depot and I would get the thickest piece that you can up to 3/16 - 1/4". Hope this helps and have a great day.

[BearMan]

Hi,

One thing I haven't been able to tell from the posts here, is weather the leather is being pulled off of the backing,,, or if the backing is being pulled off the leather. If you are pulling the leather off of the backing,,, you will have all kinds of stretching, & distortion. Always pull the backing off of the leather!

Now is a good time to review Bob Parks casing proceedure!!

My proceedure is: apply 2 crossing layers of good packing tape to the back of the leather, then apply rubber cement to the backing, & the packing tape. When dry/tacky stick them together, using the slicker, on the backing side, to make sure they are stuck good. After the tooling is all done,,, & dry,,, lay the leather face down on some clean paper towels, & start peeling the backing off,,, making sure that the leather remains flat against the paper towels. Once the backing is off, do the same with the packing tape.

Things that will cause distortion: peeling the leather off of the backing,,, removing the backing while the leather is wet,,, bending the leather during the removal process. Doing any of these will reduce the tooling depth also.

Note about using packing tape: If the item is going to be lined,,, there is no need for the tape! Also, if you are going to be using tape,,, get the good stuff. The cheap stuff, doesn't stick good enough,,, plus the cheap stuff stretches. If the tape stretches, that defeats the reason for using it.

When using "Plexyglass" it should be at least 1/4" thick. Any thinner, & you'll get lots of cupping. I have some "Plexyglass" that I've used that is several years old, & is still nice & flat. Also another nice thing about using a backing is that while tooling, if you want to cover a portion, with some plastic, to help keep in the moisture, you can tape it to the back to hold it in place, while tooling the rest.

I hope this is of some help,,, Ed the"BearMan"

[bkingery]

Thanks for all the replies. I realize now that I have been holding the leather and then pulling the backing off ergo distortion, I'm going to try the plexiglass next project. Thanks again B.

[Sierrasummer]

I am fairly new to this hobby and I am now confused. How do you pull the plexiglass away from the leather without pulling on the leather itself? I can see how to do it with cardboard because it bends but I'm not getting it with plexiglass.

[Rawhide]

Pulling plexiglass away from the leather seems a tad difficult to me. Here's what I've been using lately. X-ray film. The x-ray film is flexible, yet won't stretch. I use rubber cement on the film only. I don't put any rubber cement on the leather at all. I usually put two coats on the film. When tacky, I put the leather on the film and use a glass slicker to ensure good adhesion. then I use a piece of crepe rubber to remove the excess dried rubber cement. Now I case the leather and then tool when it's ready. Once tooling is done, I can hold the piece flat to the bench and slide it to the edge of the bench and peel the film off downwards using the edge of the bench as leverage. This won't distort the tooling and since the film is flexible, it can be reused again and again. To remove the excess adhesive off the back of the leather, I once again use the crepe rubber to remove it.

Marlon

[Moonshhade]

I know it's an old post but I thought I would add my reply for anyone else looking. I just use blue painters tape overlapping on the back. no need to glue down anything. tool away as normal then just peel the tape off the back .no distortion whatsoever!! it pulls the nap of the hide up a bit but since its the back it's fine. good luck!

[sinpac]

thick glass about 6inches by 4 inches and round the corners, and the edges. it shoud cost you about $5 and will work the same as one that costs $80. Hope this helps,

Justin Alps

Update: I just went to the glass shop last week a 6 x 4 piece of 1/4 plate glass rounded and polished on three sides will run you about 20 bucks. The wood handle I plan on making out of Cherry wood, I will plow out a 1/4 wide by 1 inch deep channel then apply clear silicone at the bottom the the channel. Let sit for 24 hrs and I should be good to go.

Edited August 5, 2012 by sinpac