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Posted

Hi Bruce,

I am a proponent of Ballistol for cleaning and protecting my guns and gear. I use it a lot on black powder guns for cleaning and protecting from rust, especially after cleaning in water. I get much less buildup in the lockwork than I did with WD-40. In fact, Ballistol has pretty much replaced WD-40 in my shop. I use other high tech lubes for hard working guns like auto handguns and longguns.

I do not use Ballistol as a lubricant.

I have used the high tech lubes on the sewing machines (why not) but I can't give you a thumbs up or down as to effectiveness, at least nothing went wrong. Lilly and the Dritz stainless work just fine in the machines, I buy it in gallons from Campbell-Bosworth (the Lilly not the Dritz). I am pretty sure the Lilly is really a Randall formulation. I can't see where Hydraulic oil is any better or worse as long as they don't doctor it up too much, and a little high tech additive is not going to hurt a bronze or roller bearing. If I was running a room full of high speed machines two or three shifts a day, I might be on a quest for something special, but then I would be oiling every shift anyway unless they have automatic oilers, regular mineral oil sewing machine lubes should do just fine.

Art

I have been following the drop a day advice and probably heard it from Art back in my early IILG days. I started off with the advice to use a little Prolong oil additive in hydraulic oil. A few years ago they had that whole flap about the super friction fighting, surface binding oil additives not doing what they promised so I'm not sure what it did now. About that time I got some Lily anyway. The Lily is about gone, so guys - more Lily with shipping charges? hydraulic oil I can buy at 10 places along the drive home? Buy some Dritz from the sewing machine guy who practically mugs me out of appreciation for not being a crabby woman who ran over her vacuum cleaner cord again and wants it replaced while she waits?

Now another question that gets to the solvents. I have been using Ballistol to clean my machines for about the same length of time. In regular use, I clean my machines about once a week, taking off plates, remove the hook and shuttle, and looking for gunk. If I am doing repairs, I clean after those for sure. My concern now is that I just willy-nilly spray into the shuttle area and Q-tip/paper towel it out. I add a few drops of oil to the race and dab a little on the bobbin case. Any thoughts or advice there?

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

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  • Members
Posted

To me it sounds a bit strange to use hydraulic oil instead of an oil that is supposed to be used as a lubricant , for example WD-40.

"The gun fight at the O.K. corral was actually started by two saddlemakers sitting around a bottle of whiskey talking about saddle fitting"...

  • Moderator
Posted

Properties of hydraulic fluid (mineral oil)

* Viscosity for film maintenance

* Low temperature fluidity

* Thermal and oxidative stability

* Hydrolytic stability / water tolerance

* Cleanliness and filterability

* Demulsibility

* Antiwear characteristics

* Corrosion control

I doubt you will get much of that from WD-40. The one thing you do get from WD-40 is solvents. Go ahead and give WD-40 a call, 1-888-324-7596, ask if it is good for oiling your sewing machine, if they give it the OK, then make your choice. I still say mineral oil.

Art

To me it sounds a bit strange to use hydraulic oil instead of an oil that is supposed to be used as a lubricant , for example WD-40.

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

  • Members
Posted

Properties of hydraulic fluid (mineral oil)

* Viscosity for film maintenance

* Low temperature fluidity

* Thermal and oxidative stability

* Hydrolytic stability / water tolerance

* Cleanliness and filterability

* Demulsibility

* Antiwear characteristics

* Corrosion control

I doubt you will get much of that from WD-40. The one thing you do get from WD-40 is solvents. Go ahead and give WD-40 a call, 1-888-324-7596, ask if it is good for oiling your sewing machine, if they give it the OK, then make your choice. I still say mineral oil.

Art

OK Art, it sounds like you know what you are talking about, so I´ll buy your advice !

Are all hydraulic oils of mineral type and suited for oiling a sewing machine?

"The gun fight at the O.K. corral was actually started by two saddlemakers sitting around a bottle of whiskey talking about saddle fitting"...

  • Moderator
Posted

In today's world I wouldn't guarantee that. Read the label, but I suspect they are mostly mineral oil, it just works. They can't adulterate it too badly or they might affect the non-compressibility aspect. Nonetheless, regular old light mineral oil will work just fine too. It is just easier to find hydraulic fluid at TSC or John Deere or the Auto parts store. If there is a choice between light and heavy, choose lite.

Art

OK Art, it sounds like you know what you are talking about, so I´ll buy your advice !

Are all hydraulic oils of mineral type and suited for oiling a sewing machine?

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

  • Members
Posted

To me it sounds a bit strange to use hydraulic oil instead of an oil that is supposed to be used as a lubricant , for example WD-40.

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant!!! It is a protective film and as said it has solvents....when u check back in a few weeks it will have gummed up, because the film is still there and solvent whent into the air....WD-40 has been specially invented to cover/film/seal metal parts on rockets in the 40ties or so, never meant to be a lubricant that carries a oil film in between to metals to prevent ceasing or abreasion.....Ohhh and that German Balistrol stuff works wonder on German air rifles and dog fleas....@@@@ Not on sewing machines....!!!

Hope I spelled all this right.....and call Bob Kovar he has Gallons of the right stuff to use....

Aloha....

Jimbob

http://www.elfwood.com/~alien883

First it is just leather....then it is what-ever I can dream off...

Posted (edited)

Can you use 3 in 1 oil on leather stichers, I have a class 3 cobra? if not why?

Hey Rob, use sewing machine oil, or mineral oil, these are light weight lubricants. Jimbob, Art and Wiz are right. Steve

Edited by Cobra Steve

Thank You

Steve Tayrien

Leather Machine Co., Inc.

2141 E. Philadelphia St. Unit "U"

Ontario, California 91761

1-866-962-9880

http://www.leathermachineco.com

cobra@leathermachineco.com

cobra.gif

 

  • Members
Posted

I was sent info. recently on all the uses of WD 40 and IF it is true, it is nothing more than FISH OIL. It was claimed that it is NON TOXIC. IF and I do say if that is true the claim that it has solvents in it might be questionable. As for its lubricating qualities I am making no claims either way. I will be interested if somebody checks this out as to its true contents.

I haven't had time yet.

Posted (edited)

As the others have said DO NOT use WD40 as a lubricant,I would only use it on rusty bolts to free them up even then there's alot better lube to use than WD.I think the confusion comes from the can it's self,as they write lubricates ,penetrates,protects on the side.

We have the sewing machine oil in 2-grades standard stainless(clear) & a heavier oil that isn't clear for heavy Industrial machines.And that's what we recommend to use.

Bob

Edited by sewmun

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

  • Members
Posted

A big concern of mine are the health issues connected to hydraulic oil. A Google search reveals that there are many additives in hydraulic oil, some of them cancerous, which tells me that I should avoid it , if there are other choices.

I called a sewing machine company today, and they suggested CRC Power Lube ( with PTFE) .

What do you think of that lubricant ?

/ Knut

"The gun fight at the O.K. corral was actually started by two saddlemakers sitting around a bottle of whiskey talking about saddle fitting"...

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