Mike Report post Posted November 29, 2010 I'm thinking of bumping up my coloring a notch. Is airbrushing the way to go? I've laid off leather work for 2-3 years now and plan to get back into it. Is an airbrush commonly used in coloring your leatherwork? (My past colorwork is at http://www.pmrleather.com) Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted November 29, 2010 I use an airbrush most of the timie, but I think your coloring is just fine Nice work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted November 30, 2010 JLSleather, . . . when you use your air brush for dye, . . . do you first thin it down, or do you just go it straight? I'm currently using Feibing's oil dyes for just about everything, . . . and I bought an inexpensive air brush package mainly for my finish coating. I ask the dye question as I have seen some really imaginative dye jobs done, and thought I might add some of that to my line, . . . but it'll be pretty basic stuff. Thanks, may God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Report post Posted November 30, 2010 I suppose from the responses that not many use an airbrush. I had that they were more popular. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted November 30, 2010 I use an airbrush exclusively. The drawback I see is that you don't get as much penetration of the dye as you would with other methods, but I try to apply at least 3 good coats. I do mostly holsters, and most of my orders call for an airbrushed feathered edge coloring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted December 1, 2010 I suppose from the responses that not many use an airbrush. I had that they were more popular. Mike ....or that quite a few people use them and may not have read this thread, or had time to respond. I've been using the cheap one from Harbor Freight, but just upgraded to the one that costs $5 more. Then, the same day I got that one I had someone give me a Badger 155 set. So, I'm refining my techniques to include actual control instead of just point and spray. They airbrushes give a LOT of flexibility to using dyes, and I'll likely only use this method. I find it's incredibly easy to get even coverage, the feathered edges Particle mentions, and also to vary the shade of the dye by just applying less. Sunburst effects are really simple too. If you have a compressor, you can be 'operational' with one for about $15. If you don't have the compressor, you can get the whole set up for about $90. If you prefer to just invest in quality at the start, good starter airbrushes should set you back nearly $100 for just the airbrush, top name compressors (run quiet types) can easily be $200 or more. I will vary whether I dilute the dyes by my need at the time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Report post Posted December 1, 2010 In my case, the use of an airbrush will require some investment in tools, either in purchasing or repair and my funds are small. More importantly, it will require learning a whole new skill set. I am nowhere near the level I'd like to be with hand brushing but I'm fairly competent. Slow but competent. I believe airbrushing could perhaps simplify things but I just don't know. I know it would take a lot of practice to gain some level of competency with the airbrush.I'm curious to know if folks who use airbrushes once dyed by brush and if so, do they use both methods, return to just doing it by brush or have just completely switched to airbrush only. BTW, most of the coloring books or lessons I've seen use hand brushing. I do have some Doodle Pages by Robb Barr that demonstrate airbrushing but that's the only examples I have. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) JLSleather, . . . when you use your air brush for dye, . . . do you first thin it down, or do you just go it straight? I'm currently using Feibing's oil dyes for just about everything, . . . and I bought an inexpensive air brush package mainly for my finish coating. I ask the dye question as I have seen some really imaginative dye jobs done, and thought I might add some of that to my line, . . . but it'll be pretty basic stuff. Thanks, may God bless, Dwight It's thinned. We just discussed this, so I'll let you follow the link instead of clogging the system with a repeat OVER HERE Edited December 1, 2010 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JJLeatherworks Report post Posted December 1, 2010 I'm thinking of bumping up my coloring a notch. Is airbrushing the way to go? I've laid off leather work for 2-3 years now and plan to get back into it. Is an airbrush commonly used in coloring your leatherwork? (My past colorwork is at http://www.pmrleather.com) Mike We use airbrushes here, but be aware, there are two types of airbrushes. The single action sprays the same amount of dye when you push down on the trigger. ( Think aerosol spray paint can.... on, off) I use this when covering large areas with dye, it is always consistent and I can darken the edges by going over it more than once. The amount of dye can be adjusted by turning the needle adjustment. My son prefers the dual action. Pushing down the trigger gives air only, pulling back on the trigger starts the dye spray. The amount of spray and the width of the spray area are controlled by how far you pull back the trigger. It takes a little practice, but he has much more control over dying small detail areas than I do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted December 1, 2010 There are things you can do with an airbrush that you can't very easily with a bristle brush, and vice-verse. I like having an assortment of tools and techniques to choose from, depending on what I'm trying to do, or what kind of effect I want. For coloring broad areas, an airbrush is hard to beat. It saves a lot of time (even after the time I spend masking off the areas to be dyed), and the color goes on perfectly even. It's also the easiest way to get that attractive shading around the edges that you see on some pieces. As Particle mentioned, the trade-off is that the dye tends not to penetrate the leather fibers as much, so you would need to make additional passes to get the color saturation you want. Kate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spiritcat Report post Posted October 13, 2011 hello I'm new to this wedsite, but i have been reading alot of what have writen here. I would like to know what is the air pressure that you run for you dye and finishes? is it about 20 pounds more or less air pressure? thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted October 13, 2011 hello I'm new to this wedsite, but i have been reading alot of what have writen here. I would like to know what is the air pressure that you run for you dye and finishes? is it about 20 pounds more or less air pressure? thank you Depends on the type of spray & type of airbrush you're looking for/using. Bottom/bottle feed (jar or cup hangs from the bottom): Full coverage dying: 15-22 psi stipple/thick coverage: 10-12 psi spraying of acrylics/thicker fluids: 18-25 psi Gravity/Top feed (cup is attached to the top of the airbrush): Full coverage dying: 10-15 psi stipple/thick coverage: 5-8 psi spraying of acrylics/thicker fluids: 12-18 psi Your mileage may vary depending on your set up but those should give you some good ranges to start with. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
