How Exactly Do You "dip" Dye Your Leather?

[Sixer]

Hi!

I normally spend my time making holsters and sheathes. I recently started making some simple bracelets and cuffs for a few friends that requested them. Normally I just apply some Feiblings Oil based dye with a cotton cloth or t-shirt....

I was hoping to save a little time by dip-dying some of the smaller pieces of leather.

I don't have a big operation going so most of my dyes are just in the little 4 oz bottles. I'd like to try dip dying but it seems like I would waste a lot of dye...

How exactly do you guys / gals go about your dip dying?

Thanks

Edited December 20, 2010 by Sixer

[hivemind]

Buy quarts of dye, pour into bowl, dip leather, pour back into bottle.

That's how I do it.

[electrathon]

Buy quarts of dye, pour into bowl, dip leather, pour back into bottle.

That's how I do it.

I do it the same way, except I usually buy 4oz bottles. Very little waste if you do not spill it.

[hivemind]

I can get quart bottles of Fiebing's for $11 from my local guy. It's not a disaster if I dribble a little. But use a funnel if you're paying Tandy prices for dye.

[Dwight]

I have two old 9 x 13 baking pans, . . . one is for browns, . . . one is for black.

Pour in the dye, . . . "dip" the leather, . . . hang up the leather, . . . pour dye back into bottle, using funnel.

Depending on the color, . . . I've found some work even better if I cut it somewhat with the thinner. It seems to be more even then.

It is really the only way I can successfully dye a belt and get the color I really want.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Sixer]

Thanks for the replies! I was really over thinking this one

[particle]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but how long do you leave the leather submerged in the dye when dipping? I dip dyed recently, and only left it in the dye about 5-10 seconds max - the dye penetrated the leather completely (8-10oz). It took several days to dry... When I sewed my pieces together and wet the items to form (holsters), the dye transferred to my thread (even though I buffed the leather). Now I'm thinking I might need to remake these particular holsters.

[Warpe]

I just dip dyed my first leather today and ending up with a darker edging...basically two tone (brown w/black edging). The leather was only submerged for about 15 seconds.

Am i missing a step?

[lonestar tactical]

I dip dye but when I pull the dyed leather out I rub it down with a clean dry brush. I leave it submerged in the dye for 5-10 seconds - remove - wipe down with a sponge - then repeat for a total of 2 dips and wipe downs with a sponge. I find that doing it this way avoids any blotchy areas. Also I picked up a storage container (like a ziploc plastic ware thing with resealable lids) and dip and store my dye in the same plastic. When done I seal it back up and put the entire plastic ware into a dark place. Have been doing this for over a year now and it has been working well.

[Warpe]

I dip dye but when I pull the dyed leather out I rub it down with a clean dry brush. I leave it submerged in the dye for 5-10 seconds - remove - wipe down with a sponge - then repeat for a total of 2 dips and wipe downs with a sponge. I find that doing it this way avoids any blotchy areas. Also I picked up a storage container (like a ziploc plastic ware thing with resealable lids) and dip and store my dye in the same plastic. When done I seal it back up and put the entire plastic ware into a dark place. Have been doing this for over a year now and it has been working well.

I will try the sponge wipe down next time and see how that works for me. Thanks for the reply.

[Dwight]

Another thing to think about if you are dip dyeing, . . .

Lay the piece out horizontal, . . . especially a belt. When I first started, . . . I did some belts all together in a hurry, . . . and not thinking, hung them up on one end to dry. The black ones were OK, . . . all the browns were dark brown on the bottom, . . . and much lighter at the top, . . . as the dye had migrated down during the drying process,

All my leather gets "dipped", . . . kinda like dipping a french fry in ketchup, . . . leaving it there doesn't do any good, . . . dip it, . . . get it out, . . . go on with life. It also dries out faster that way.

And yes, . . . use something to absorb the excess that is laying on the surface when you pull it out of the pan / bowl / tray / bucket or whatever.

May God bless,

Dwight

[$$hobby]

Hi!

I normally spend my time making holsters and sheathes. I recently started making some simple bracelets and cuffs for a few friends that requested them. Normally I just apply some Feiblings Oil based dye with a cotton cloth or t-shirt....

I was hoping to save a little time by dip-dying some of the smaller pieces of leather.

I don't have a big operation going so most of my dyes are just in the little 4 oz bottles. I'd like to try dip dying but it seems like I would waste a lot of dye...

How exactly do you guys / gals go about your dip dying?

Thanks

well, imo, youre screwing yourself by purchasing 4 oz bottles of a dye. i can see that if someone want some really odd color like green, then i would buy a small qty, but if youre using any dye in any quantity, buy in bulk. only you know how much you use. i buy most of my dyes in 32 oz, but when it comes to a handful of colors, like BLack, i buy in gallons. theres no shelf life or epiration date, so i dont worry about it going bad.

i dunk dye my projects when possible. if its a small thing then i will dauber it if its black or wipe it if its not black.

btw, go to your local thrift shops, goodwills or garage/estate sales and look for containers. Baking pans, Cake pans, or even shallow pots. We have a palce call "city liquidators" that sells overstock and some used stuff, but alot of odd things. I try to find Stainless pans, but if i cant, it will be aluminum. I also try to find ones that nest so they dont take up alot of room. i get different sizes since the projects will be different sizes. if the pan is way oversized for the project, it will take alot more dye to fill the bottom of the pan to do the job..

[Sixer]

well, imo, youre screwing yourself by purchasing 4 oz bottles of a dye. i can see that if someone want some really odd color like green, then i would buy a small qty, but if youre using any dye in any quantity, buy in bulk. only you know how much you use. i buy most of my dyes in 32 oz, but when it comes to a handful of colors, like BLack, i buy in gallons. theres no shelf life or epiration date, so i dont worry about it going bad.

i dunk dye my projects when possible. if its a small thing then i will dauber it if its black or wipe it if its not black.

btw, go to your local thrift shops, goodwills or garage/estate sales and look for containers. Baking pans, Cake pans, or even shallow pots. We have a palce call "city liquidators" that sells overstock and some used stuff, but alot of odd things. I try to find Stainless pans, but if i cant, it will be aluminum. I also try to find ones that nest so they dont take up alot of room. i get different sizes since the projects will be different sizes. if the pan is way oversized for the project, it will take alot more dye to fill the bottom of the pan to do the job..

Hahaha... I would have to agree! This post is nearly a year old now, in which time I have seen the light I keep Black, Drk Brown, and Lt Brown handy in 32 oz bottles and the occasional Mahogony, Saddle Tan, Red, etc. in 4 oz bottles.

Good advice on the pan sizes and sources... I need to start keeping an eye out.

I actually have yet to dip dye anything. For now I've just been using disposable sponge brushes, which I've found to be fairly quick and clean, while still getting good saturation. I'll also touch up the lighter browns with an airbrush to try and achieve a consistent dye job... still hate doing light brown

[AmyNMiller]

I have found that plastic ziploc bags work great for dip dyeing as I can shake it up. I've also been able to make some marbling dyed leather by using a color such as blue and white together. Kind of interesting with the mix of colors.

[FloridaLeatherGirl]

When you dip dye it seems to get SO MUCH into the leather (which is the idea, I know). However, I sponged off excess and let it dry really good. I buff it too! However, a black bridle I recently re-dyed was worn by it's horse today and the black dye came off onto the light gray horse.

Luckily it's my horse and he just looks goofy so it's no big whoop.

It's annoying though. What sets the dye?

[TheThiefPrince]

Sorry to revive a thread from the dead guys, buy I too had a question involving dip dyeing. After thoroughly reviewing this post, what is the best vessel for storing your dye after adding the thinning agent, particularly Fiebing's Reducer? Anyone know of the best type of plastic container to use? I would prefer to keep the dipping container and the storage container the same, to reduce the risk of spillage during the act of transferring the liquid mixture from container to container. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And to the OP, sorry to highjack such an old thread, but it's been something I've been trying to find answers on for awhile now.

[JLSleather]

I picked up some bowl thingies at walmart... sealed lids. Rubbermaid? Or something like that. I pour the dye in (quarts, but they'd probably hold gallons if you want), dip whatever I'm working on, then put the lid on the 'barrel'. Simple. And they stack, so not eating up shop space. No, I dont have a picture of them... just any 'tupperware' type thing.. I just checked to make sure they have a good seal (don't want the reducer evaporating out).

[TheThiefPrince]

I picked up some bowl thingies at walmart... sealed lids. Rubbermaid? Or something like that. I pour the dye in (quarts, but they'd probably hold gallons if you want), dip whatever I'm working on, then put the lid on the 'barrel'. Simple. And they stack, so not eating up shop space. No, I dont have a picture of them... just any 'tupperware' type thing.. I just checked to make sure they have a good seal (don't want the reducer evaporating out).

Awesome. Thank you! I didn't know if there were a particular type of plastic that had to be used to properly store the pro oil/reduced dyes or not. I didn't want the mixture degrading the container I bought and not realize it until a come home to a puddle of dye in my spare bedroom! If you don't mind me asking; what ratio do you mix the pro oil dye and reducer at? I could just give it a whirl, but prefer not to waste too much during a trial and error process. Expertise is what I'm on this forum for anyway! haha

[JLSleather]

If I'm going to dip it, I don't reduce it. Full strength.

[TheThiefPrince]

If I'm going to dip it, I don't reduce it. Full strength.

I would go full strength, but I cannot afford a gallon of dye per container. Especially considering I'm (as of right now) a hobbyist and don't have a supplier that will sell me large quantities for less than $65/gal. In addition, I feel that reducing the dye will lead to lighter more gradual dying (albeit, a longer process) which leads to more controlled color matching during the dying process. I'm slightly OCD when it comes to matching and I really like to be able to control the matching process. I could be wrong though. This all is merely an assumption and theory in my mind.

[electrathon]

Going full strength can lead to so VERY dark coloring. Usually tan is dark brown, light brown is dark brown, medium brown is way dark brown, dark brown is almost black and so on. DO TEST PIECES FIRST! Let the piece dry for a few hours, the color will change.

Also, one color will dye will not produce the sane color on the leather. You need to know the tannery the leather came from to make sure it is the same.

[JLSleather]

Well, reducing the dye will give you MORE LIQUID. As for matching, there are various levels of OCD. If you want to make belts, and you're insistent about matching, then you will likely want a splitter, or at least a very good skiver. A thousand times I've seen nice looking belts I thought were assaulted by being given a leather keeper that doesn't match.

With natural (undyed) leather, the 7 or 8 oz leather you used for the body and the 4 oz (ish) leather you used for the keeper don't match. The color is not quite right, or the grain is a bit different, etc. Often, applying a finish will make the difference more obvious. Here's the 'work arounds"...

There is the antique puke. Some dump that junk on everything they do -- it's purpose is to HIDE (the story goes, it's to accent, but you'll see soon enough).

Some geniuses have come up with the "plan" to dye everything dark, and then claim that doesn't matter. But, you can tell, more often than not. And it's not something you have to go looking for... if it doesn't match, you'll see it. It's less obvious than on natural leather, but still ....

Oh, and there ARE those who tell you that hermann oak leather is consistent across different weights and always the same. It makes a nice story, gotta give em that! But you can get different shades and textures even within the same hide.

Really, if you want it to ACTUALLY match, cut the keepers from the same hide, and split it down to the proper thickness.

[TheThiefPrince]

Well, a year later I finally got the nerve to try dip dyeing tonight and I must say, it's marvelous. Screw those damn wool daubers and such! Although I'm still learning a few things (i.e. Mixing ratios, dipping times, etc.) I'm really liking the way I'm able to actually see the colors Fiebing's color chart shows on my pieces. I've read and read about how dark they get just swabbing the Pro oil dyes on and knew there had to be a better way, and there is! Hints: Don't waste your money on Fiebing's Dye Reducer, just use denatured alcohol (A rep at Fiebing's told me this over the phone. I asked why they wouldn't ship the reducer to California [even though I live in Ohio; I was curious] and he said just use Denatured alcohol, it's the same thing!) and mix the dye and alcohol at a 5:1 ratio and you'll see that after a 10-15 second dip, that the real color (the swatch color) is shown.

 

What a difference! And due to the volume it produces by adding the alcohol, it quintuples the amount of dye you have!

[silverwingit]

On matching shades...

+1 on needing not only the same hide but taken from the same part of the hide and split down. Leather more towards the belly will take dye differently than back or neck leather.

Also,

+1 on diluting. That's the only way so control the shade unless you want your products to be very dark. 

Lastly, I find that I get my best results by letting the dye completely soak the leather. Fewer issues when finishing edges and the only way I've found to ensure uniformity of shade. I leave my workpieces to soak until they quit bubbling. I use Pro Oil dye. It takes a few hours to dry before I can continue working, but overnight works best.

If I do these things I can count on the shades of the different pieces of leather that make of a project to be the same.

Michelle

[KeithHideWorks]

How and with what exactly do you dilute?   

 

Thanks!