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Posted

Another thing to think about if you are dip dyeing, . . .

Lay the piece out horizontal, . . . especially a belt. When I first started, . . . I did some belts all together in a hurry, . . . and not thinking, hung them up on one end to dry. The black ones were OK, . . . all the browns were dark brown on the bottom, . . . and much lighter at the top, . . . as the dye had migrated down during the drying process,

All my leather gets "dipped", . . . kinda like dipping a french fry in ketchup, . . . leaving it there doesn't do any good, . . . dip it, . . . get it out, . . . go on with life. It also dries out faster that way.

And yes, . . . use something to absorb the excess that is laying on the surface when you pull it out of the pan / bowl / tray / bucket or whatever.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

Hi!

I normally spend my time making holsters and sheathes. I recently started making some simple bracelets and cuffs for a few friends that requested them. Normally I just apply some Feiblings Oil based dye with a cotton cloth or t-shirt....

I was hoping to save a little time by dip-dying some of the smaller pieces of leather.

I don't have a big operation going so most of my dyes are just in the little 4 oz bottles. I'd like to try dip dying but it seems like I would waste a lot of dye...

How exactly do you guys / gals go about your dip dying?

Thanks :)

well, imo, youre screwing yourself by purchasing 4 oz bottles of a dye. i can see that if someone want some really odd color like green, then i would buy a small qty, but if youre using any dye in any quantity, buy in bulk. only you know how much you use. i buy most of my dyes in 32 oz, but when it comes to a handful of colors, like BLack, i buy in gallons. theres no shelf life or epiration date, so i dont worry about it going bad.

i dunk dye my projects when possible. if its a small thing then i will dauber it if its black or wipe it if its not black.

btw, go to your local thrift shops, goodwills or garage/estate sales and look for containers. Baking pans, Cake pans, or even shallow pots. We have a palce call "city liquidators" that sells overstock and some used stuff, but alot of odd things. I try to find Stainless pans, but if i cant, it will be aluminum. I also try to find ones that nest so they dont take up alot of room. i get different sizes since the projects will be different sizes. if the pan is way oversized for the project, it will take alot more dye to fill the bottom of the pan to do the job..

Riding is a partnership. The horse lends you his strength, speed and grace, which are greater then yours. For your part you give him your guidance, intelligence and understanding, which are greater then his. Togeather you can achieve a richness that alone neither can.

- Lucy Rees, The Horse's Mind

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Posted

well, imo, youre screwing yourself by purchasing 4 oz bottles of a dye. i can see that if someone want some really odd color like green, then i would buy a small qty, but if youre using any dye in any quantity, buy in bulk. only you know how much you use. i buy most of my dyes in 32 oz, but when it comes to a handful of colors, like BLack, i buy in gallons. theres no shelf life or epiration date, so i dont worry about it going bad.

i dunk dye my projects when possible. if its a small thing then i will dauber it if its black or wipe it if its not black.

btw, go to your local thrift shops, goodwills or garage/estate sales and look for containers. Baking pans, Cake pans, or even shallow pots. We have a palce call "city liquidators" that sells overstock and some used stuff, but alot of odd things. I try to find Stainless pans, but if i cant, it will be aluminum. I also try to find ones that nest so they dont take up alot of room. i get different sizes since the projects will be different sizes. if the pan is way oversized for the project, it will take alot more dye to fill the bottom of the pan to do the job..

Hahaha... I would have to agree! This post is nearly a year old now, in which time I have seen the light ;) I keep Black, Drk Brown, and Lt Brown handy in 32 oz bottles and the occasional Mahogony, Saddle Tan, Red, etc. in 4 oz bottles.

Good advice on the pan sizes and sources... I need to start keeping an eye out.

I actually have yet to dip dye anything. For now I've just been using disposable sponge brushes, which I've found to be fairly quick and clean, while still getting good saturation. I'll also touch up the lighter browns with an airbrush to try and achieve a consistent dye job... still hate doing light brown :)

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Posted

I have found that plastic ziploc bags work great for dip dyeing as I can shake it up. I've also been able to make some marbling dyed leather by using a color such as blue and white together. Kind of interesting with the mix of colors.

  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted

When you dip dye it seems to get SO MUCH into the leather (which is the idea, I know). However, I sponged off excess and let it dry really good. I buff it too! However, a black bridle I recently re-dyed was worn by it's horse today and the black dye came off onto the light gray horse.

Luckily it's my horse and he just looks goofy so it's no big whoop.

It's annoying though. What sets the dye?

  • 3 years later...
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Posted

Sorry to revive a thread from the dead guys, buy I too had a question involving dip dyeing. After thoroughly reviewing this post, what is the best vessel for storing your dye after adding the thinning agent, particularly Fiebing's Reducer? Anyone know of the best type of plastic container to use? I would prefer to keep the dipping container and the storage container the same, to reduce the risk of spillage during the act of transferring the liquid mixture from container to container. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And to the OP, sorry to highjack such an old thread, but it's been something I've been trying to find answers on for awhile now.

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Posted

I picked up some bowl thingies at walmart... sealed lids. Rubbermaid? Or something like that. I pour the dye in (quarts, but they'd probably hold gallons if you want), dip whatever I'm working on, then put the lid on the 'barrel'. Simple. And they stack, so not eating up shop space. No, I dont have a picture of them... just any 'tupperware' type thing.. I just checked to make sure they have a good seal (don't want the reducer evaporating out).

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted

I picked up some bowl thingies at walmart... sealed lids. Rubbermaid? Or something like that. I pour the dye in (quarts, but they'd probably hold gallons if you want), dip whatever I'm working on, then put the lid on the 'barrel'. Simple. And they stack, so not eating up shop space. No, I dont have a picture of them... just any 'tupperware' type thing.. I just checked to make sure they have a good seal (don't want the reducer evaporating out).

Awesome. Thank you! I didn't know if there were a particular type of plastic that had to be used to properly store the pro oil/reduced dyes or not. I didn't want the mixture degrading the container I bought and not realize it until a come home to a puddle of dye in my spare bedroom! If you don't mind me asking; what ratio do you mix the pro oil dye and reducer at? I could just give it a whirl, but prefer not to waste too much during a trial and error process. Expertise is what I'm on this forum for anyway! haha

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Posted

If I'm going to dip it, I don't reduce it. Full strength.

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted

If I'm going to dip it, I don't reduce it. Full strength.

I would go full strength, but I cannot afford a gallon of dye per container. Especially considering I'm (as of right now) a hobbyist and don't have a supplier that will sell me large quantities for less than $65/gal. In addition, I feel that reducing the dye will lead to lighter more gradual dying (albeit, a longer process) which leads to more controlled color matching during the dying process. I'm slightly OCD when it comes to matching and I really like to be able to control the matching process. I could be wrong though. This all is merely an assumption and theory in my mind.

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