Swive Knives

[salvi]

Hi all,

I'm going to buy my first Swivel Knife and my question is obvious after seeing prices on internet. I didn't want to mention any manufacturer but it is absolutely necessary in this case as I have decided to buy best tools in order to set up a good tooling box and to obtain the benefit of those tools on my learning process.

Whereas Tandy is selling swivel knives from $20 to $70, Barry King (famous for the quality of his tools) offers one for $45. The highest price is from Leather Wranglers with its famous SK-3 starting on $125. As long as the tools seem to be almost the same, why the price difference is so huge? I can't understand it.

The other question is about the tool size. I have an average hand but this kind of tool have many different configurations for the yoke, barrel and blade. What is/are the best size/s for Sheridan Style? and What other aspects of the tool should I have in mind to not be wrong on the purchase.

Thank you

[terrymac]

The primary difference is in the quality of the steel in the blade. For instance, Paul at Leather Wranglers came up with an alloy that is unbelievale in its abiliity to maintain a sharp edge. He developed this alloy in conjunction with Sandia National Labs. I am sure there are some other quality knives out there, but IMHO, the SK-3 can't be beat. Go the the "Leather Tools" part of the Forum and see all of the comments concerning this knife. Hope this helps,

Terry

[Spinner]

I own the Tandy regular knife, two Barry Kings with 5/8" dia. barrel and recently bought the SK-3 from Leather Wranglers.

After doing some side by side tests using identical conditions I can honestly say that the SK-3 is worth the money. If the price is out of range for now, the Barry King is also a great knife. My personal opinions and feelings:

Tandy: A entry level knife. The angle on their angle blades is too accute and the tip tends to bury itself and drag. The straight blades are decent but require stropping more often. The barrels are made from inexpensive materials and the yoke can drag a bit when pressure is put on it.

Barry King: A very nice knife and has served me well for years. The angle on his angle blades is good but the grind angle is a bit shallow which can cause the grind to round over after many uses requiring a good resharpening. Strops well and hold an edge decently. Barrel and yoke are made of higher quality brass which is nice but adds weight to the knife. The option of the 5/8" barrel is a plus for folks with larger hands.

SK-3: Paul Z definitely did his homework. I put this knife through the paces last night just to see how long it & would last. The grind angle is a double bevel which I have not seen on another knife. This is something I use in woodturning so the concept isn't new but it definitely makes sense. The barrel is made from high quality aluminum which cuts down on the weight quite a bit but feels very solid in the hand. The blade shank is also smaller than on most knifes as well which allows for more material around the blade at the base of the handle. The yoke is equally as nice, with a smooth rounded channel like a jeweler's yoke and feels very comfortable.

Of the three knives, I was able to cut for twice as long with the SK-3 before wanting to strop. The other two needed it, the SK-3 may not have but I had been cutting enough that it didn't feel right not giving it a quick edge. My hand grew the most tired the soonest with the Tandy, the barrel is on the small side (both diameter and length). Barry's knives were more comfortable but the extra weight can be noticeable after a few hours. The SK-3 barrel diameter is larger than the Tandy's and more comfortable. The length is also adjustable on the SK-3 so it can be made to fit your hand. Barry does offer the same size barrel (1/2") as the SK-3 so diameter is a non-issue.

Other observations:

Blade release:

Tandy - twist compression fitting. Adequate but if it works it's way tight, can be a bugger to open for blade changes.

BK - flathead set screw. Better as it doesn't doesn't require massive hand strength if over tightened, however being a flathead it is more prone to stripping.

SK-3 - allen set screw. Best as like the BK is easy to change blades and the allen screw is less prone to stripping. Paul also includes the allen key with the knife so you don't have to worry about having the right one. He also includes an extra allen head screw for use in the Tandy angle guide for sharpening.

I'm not paid or associated with any of the above mentioned companies, just passing on my opinion & experiences.

Chris

[Randy Cornelius]

I totally agree with what has been said. I have tried almost all the knives out there and several different blades. Tired the cerimac, colbolt steel, both of those served me well. My second favorit knife was the Henley which was a heavy knife but a work of art. Also no one mentioned the Chuck Smith knife ol'smoothy. Never owned one but tried one at the shows acouple times and it was a very good knife. Then came along my now very good friend Paul Zalack from leather wranglers. I first tied one of his knifes at the show in Columbus a few years back and the rest is history. I can cut and carve so much better just because of the advances he has made in metalurgy in the blade. I also like the fact the blade is longer than most.

I guess it all boils down to what you can afford. If you cannot afford a Leather Wranglers then go for something a little cheeper and then trade up as time and money allows. But if you want the best. It's Leather Wranglers. I now own 3 of his knives. And love them all...

Randy

[Ferg]

I totally agree with what has been said. I have tried almost all the knives out there and several different blades. Tired the cerimac, colbolt steel, both of those served me well. My second favorit knife was the Henley which was a heavy knife but a work of art. Also no one mentioned the Chuck Smith knife ol'smoothy. Never owned one but tried one at the shows acouple times and it was a very good knife. Then came along my now very good friend Paul Zalack from leather wranglers. I first tied one of his knifes at the show in Columbus a few years back and the rest is history. I can cut and carve so much better just because of the advances he has made in metalurgy in the blade. I also like the fact the blade is longer than most.

I guess it all boils down to what you can afford. If you cannot afford a Leather Wranglers then go for something a little cheeper and then trade up as time and money allows. But if you want the best. It's Leather Wranglers. I now own 3 of his knives. And love them all...

Randy

Plus 1 to previous comments.

I have the SK-3 including four of Paul's blades. If the knife cost $200 it would be underpriced with the comfort and technical ability you have with this knife.

ferg

[salvi]

Hi Chris,

thank you very much for this awesome review.

I own the Tandy regular knife, two Barry Kings with 5/8" dia. barrel and recently bought the SK-3 from Leather Wranglers.

After doing some side by side tests using identical conditions I can honestly say that the SK-3 is worth the money. If the price is out of range for now, the Barry King is also a great knife. My personal opinions and feelings:

Tandy: A entry level knife. The angle on their angle blades is too accute and the tip tends to bury itself and drag. The straight blades are decent but require stropping more often. The barrels are made from inexpensive materials and the yoke can drag a bit when pressure is put on it.

Barry King: A very nice knife and has served me well for years. The angle on his angle blades is good but the grind angle is a bit shallow which can cause the grind to round over after many uses requiring a good resharpening. Strops well and hold an edge decently. Barrel and yoke are made of higher quality brass which is nice but adds weight to the knife. The option of the 5/8" barrel is a plus for folks with larger hands.

SK-3: Paul Z definitely did his homework. I put this knife through the paces last night just to see how long it & would last. The grind angle is a double bevel which I have not seen on another knife. This is something I use in woodturning so the concept isn't new but it definitely makes sense. The barrel is made from high quality aluminum which cuts down on the weight quite a bit but feels very solid in the hand. The blade shank is also smaller than on most knifes as well which allows for more material around the blade at the base of the handle. The yoke is equally as nice, with a smooth rounded channel like a jeweler's yoke and feels very comfortable.

Of the three knives, I was able to cut for twice as long with the SK-3 before wanting to strop. The other two needed it, the SK-3 may not have but I had been cutting enough that it didn't feel right not giving it a quick edge. My hand grew the most tired the soonest with the Tandy, the barrel is on the small side (both diameter and length). Barry's knives were more comfortable but the extra weight can be noticeable after a few hours. The SK-3 barrel diameter is larger than the Tandy's and more comfortable. The length is also adjustable on the SK-3 so it can be made to fit your hand. Barry does offer the same size barrel (1/2") as the SK-3 so diameter is a non-issue.

Other observations:

Blade release:

Tandy - twist compression fitting. Adequate but if it works it's way tight, can be a bugger to open for blade changes.

BK - flathead set screw. Better as it doesn't doesn't require massive hand strength if over tightened, however being a flathead it is more prone to stripping.

SK-3 - allen set screw. Best as like the BK is easy to change blades and the allen screw is less prone to stripping. Paul also includes the allen key with the knife so you don't have to worry about having the right one. He also includes an extra allen head screw for use in the Tandy angle guide for sharpening.

I'm not paid or associated with any of the above mentioned companies, just passing on my opinion & experiences.

Chris

Thank you all for being so sincere and clear when talking about Swivel Knives. I am sure that this is going to be a great support for newcomers to leather crafting.

Edited March 8, 2011 by salvi

[King's X]

My .02 cents for what it will cause. I own a large collection of swivel knives. I do have to admit that my SK-3's are my most used and favorite ones next to my Craft Japan. I also agree to what was also mentioned earlier, you buy what you can afford. If your pocket does not allow something heavy like a Pro-series (which hasn't been mentioned), SK-3 or Ol'Smoothie than there are some more affordable products out there. My Craft Japan 11mm knife was a gift, but at $29.99 (minus a blade) it works twice as good as some of my $50 knifes.

The swivel knife is (in my opinion) the most important tool in my leathercraft hobby. It took me a long time to learn this lesson, I believe the hard way. One of the artists that I follow and listen to has written about having a sharp swivel knife or using a sharp swivel knife. I now know this to be so true.

If you are serious about your craft, I would carefully consider your knife options. Now, with this said, I can say that I have taught myself (with the help from other to include Paul at LW) how to sharpen my knifes and how to use rouge. I would seriously recommend that you learn how to do this.

I bit you good luck in your search!