How-To...introduction To Making A Whaletail Motorcycle Bib

[Spinner]

I was asked to do a write up of a haphazard article/thread I posted on one of the motorcycle website I frequent on how a whaletail bib is made. Done in DIY format, part of it is to show folks what goes into making decent leather gear and to give the adventurous ones just enough tools to have fun.

Enjoy!

Chris

Introduction-to-making-a-whaletail-motorcycle-tank-bib.pdf

Edited April 28, 2011 by TwinOaks

[leatheroo]

thanks chris!!!!

[Spinner]

No problem Roo, hopefully it provides some useful info. Also, the web version is online already for those that don't want to download it:

http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/resources/leatherworking-101/

The idea is I'll eventually add to it with various articles on making bike related gear and parts out of leather. I'll be doing a Honda Rune seat next and a set of leather wrapped side covers for a Shadow Aero. 99% of the folks that read them won't attempt the projects but should come away with an appreciation of the time and effort leatherworkers put into custom gear. The other 1% will likely be asking me questions soon on that forum...LOL

[GrampaJoel]

Spinner.

While I don't do moto stuff, I appreciate the effort you took to make this lesson available to leather workers all over the world.

Perhaps some that might be in the very area that you find your own clients.

This unselfishness is very commendable.

My hat's off to you sir!

Joel

[Spinner]

Spinner.

While I don't do moto stuff, I appreciate the effort you took to make this lesson available to leather workers all over the world.

Perhaps some that might be in the very area that you find your own clients.

This unselfishness is very commendable.

My hat's off to you sir!

Joel

Thanks for the kudos Joel. I figure it this way...On just one forum that only covers 2 models of motorcycles I do leather for there are 38,000 members. I can only make 40-50 of these things a year while working my day job and there are countless other forums not to mention tens of thousands of riders who don't use forums...that's just in the US. Even if I did overlap with someone, the odds of it happening more than once are staggering. If it happens more often then it means either my marketing or work quality aren't as good and I need to step something up!

I also realize the value of information as I have seen a number of woodturners and leatherworkers over the years take their secrets to the Great Beyond with them...that doesn't do those who would pick up the torches for future generations any good.

[GrampaJoel]

Spinner

also realize the value of information as I have seen a number of woodturners and leatherworkers over the years take their secrets to the Great Beyond with them...that doesn't do those who would pick up the torches for future generations any good.

.....and this is exactly why my hat is off to you sir.

You understand the value of your knowledge and the importance of sharing it.

Joel

[Tree Reaper]

Well done Chris.

You do nice work !

Kevin.

[Spinner]

Thanks Joel & Kevin

[infomage]

Looking forward to the seat and side covers. My shadow maybe getting an upgrade.

tlong

Think Positive Be Positive

[dragonspit]

Chris, thanks for the in-depth. I know you have in the past put alll this out there more or less. but its nice to have it all in one spot. At some point, I see myself doing one of these and will be awesome to have. you also answered one nagging question, but made me think of another. To that end, whats your opinion on this.

so when you read about casing leather for tooling, most of the crafters agree that Paul's link on casing , where you submerse the leather in water until the bubbles stop. then let dry for whatever it takes. Now you like my local Tandy guy just spray enough to get down in the leather some. I am assuming if you submersed you leather for tooling for this kind of project, did your tooling, let it dry, would you have trouble re wetting to do the wet mold? or do you have sacrifice some depth, and do shallow wettin for tooling, in order to be able to not have any struggles while wet molding the bib? Its really a general question as you detailing is obviously deep enough tooling for the projects. just wondered if you expiermented with that any.

Bob

[Spinner]

Chris, thanks for the in-depth. I know you have in the past put alll this out there more or less. but its nice to have it all in one spot. At some point, I see myself doing one of these and will be awesome to have. you also answered one nagging question, but made me think of another. To that end, whats your opinion on this.

so when you read about casing leather for tooling, most of the crafters agree that Paul's link on casing , where you submerse the leather in water until the bubbles stop. then let dry for whatever it takes. Now you like my local Tandy guy just spray enough to get down in the leather some. I am assuming if you submersed you leather for tooling for this kind of project, did your tooling, let it dry, would you have trouble re wetting to do the wet mold? or do you have sacrifice some depth, and do shallow wettin for tooling, in order to be able to not have any struggles while wet molding the bib? Its really a general question as you detailing is obviously deep enough tooling for the projects. just wondered if you expiermented with that any.

Bob

Hey Bob,

I have tried both methods with these, soaking and spraying and found a few things in regards to bibs specifically. Number one is when I soak and re-wet the leather tends to take 2-3 times longer to dry on the tank. Normally most of leatherworking wet forming is done on wood blocks and such so the wood and indoor temps help the leather dry fairly fast. On a tank, being metal, the moisture has to dissipate through the flesh side as it just sits on the underside. A sprayed piece has more top than bottom moisture and tends to dry faster. The other thing is that I may not necessarily want the top soaking wet due to stretch & shrink. If the top was fully cased, it can pull away from the dash cutout area more than planned for when drying and thus end up being outside of the dash panel (i.e. gaps between the leather and dash. By only wetting the area to be formed and simply spritzing the area on top, I eliminate any unwanted shrinkage but the spritz gives it just enough water so they leather doesn't get uneven color due (water spots). Spraying also helps you control where the water goes so you can wet right up to but not including the tooling and thus don't have to worry about the tooled area raising.

Hope that answers the question,

Chris

[Randy Cornelius]

Enjoyed your articule, lots of information. I just got done re-covering my corbin seat on my 1500 Goldwing. Not sure I ever want to do another one.

RC

[dragonspit]

Hey Bob,

I have tried both methods with these, soaking and spraying and found a few things in regards to bibs specifically. Number one is when I soak and re-wet the leather tends to take 2-3 times longer to dry on the tank. Normally most of leatherworking wet forming is done on wood blocks and such so the wood and indoor temps help the leather dry fairly fast. On a tank, being metal, the moisture has to dissipate through the flesh side as it just sits on the underside. A sprayed piece has more top than bottom moisture and tends to dry faster. The other thing is that I may not necessarily want the top soaking wet due to stretch & shrink. If the top was fully cased, it can pull away from the dash cutout area more than planned for when drying and thus end up being outside of the dash panel (i.e. gaps between the leather and dash. By only wetting the area to be formed and simply spritzing the area on top, I eliminate any unwanted shrinkage but the spritz gives it just enough water so they leather doesn't get uneven color due (water spots). Spraying also helps you control where the water goes so you can wet right up to but not including the tooling and thus don't have to worry about the tooled area raising.

Hope that answers the question,

Chris

answers a lot . thanks again. need to file this for sure.