Hermes Saddle Stitch

[Lippy]

Note to JIMSADDLER,

Can't you find someone to hold the video camera while you show us the right way to hand stitch.

You've always had the BEST ADVICE!!! Pictures and video are always worth a million words.

Right or wrong, the guy in the video stitching the saddle part works for Hermes and they

charge a whole lot of money for what he does.

Cheers and many thanks!

Lippy

[Kevin]

Unless something has changed in just the last couple years and I haven't seen it, that video is bogus. They quit handsewing pull skirts a long time ago. Like twenty years ago.

I will say, they are one of the last companies that build a saddle sort of like it's supposed to be done.

Kevin

PS, When I say it's bogus, I mean it is for demonstration only. They do still hand seam the seat and use tacks as opposed to staples.

Edited June 5, 2011 by Kevin

[jimsaddler]

Hi Lippy

you're right. I need a Camera Man or Woman. I've got the Video Camera, the ability, the workshop, the Tools, the Materials. BUT need someone to take the Video.

I'll keep looking, or wait till my Family get interested enough.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler

Note to JIMSADDLER,

Can't you find someone to hold the video camera while you show us the right way to hand stitch.

You've always had the BEST ADVICE!!! Pictures and video are always worth a million words.

Right or wrong, the guy in the video stitching the saddle part works for Hermes and they

charge a whole lot of money for what he does.

Cheers and many thanks!

Lippy

[Jimbob]

Hello,

Anyone notices that Hermes saddle stitches go like this ///// , but most stitches here or on any tutorial go like this \\\\\

Anyone knows why?

Chris

I think Kevin is right.....he gets to eat da cake!!

Schmetz needles has great website and displays

These needles and how they stitch a certain pattern!!

James

[chouinardragon]

James,

I don't think so. All of the Hermes products are hand-stitched, from leather accessories to Birkin bags.

You can google it and see if I am right.

Chris

I think Kevin is right.....he gets to eat da cake!!

Schmetz needles has great website and displays

These needles and how they stitch a certain pattern!!

James

[Jimbob]

James,

I don't think so. All of the Hermes products are hand-stitched, from leather accessories to Birkin bags.

You can google it and see if I am right.

Chris

Of course was I refering to machine sewing items....so was Kevin I think.....stitching by hand is ur personal choice of addressing the awl to the material!!!!

James

[Kevin]

I got a newer Hermes in for a new seat and they have gone back to handsewing the pull skirt. I guess since they're not the big fish anymore in French saddles, they have to try harder.

Kevin

[BuffaloGirl]

Hello,

Anyone notices that Hermes saddle stitches go like this ///// , but most stitches here or on any tutorial go like this \\\\\

Anyone knows why?

Chris

Hello, I joined just so I could comment on this old post.

1) I received an email from Hermes that stated that "Please note that some parts of the handbags are machine stitch and some are hand stitch. " Feb 2012.

2) look at your picture. Note how you are right that most of the stitching is /////, but that in critical areas like where the handles attach to the bag the stitches are in the opposite direction \\\\.

I have been looking at fake and authentic Birkin handbags and this stitching in opposite direction is consistent. Where there is a the potential for rips (strap joints to bag, etc.) Hermes has the stitches in the opposite direction....I believe because this is when they are using the saddle stitch. Otherwise they are using a sewing machine.

I hope this helps. I have read that repairs are always made using saddle stitch as not to accidentally punch extra wholes, so to use existing ones.

[CustomDoug]

I was under the impression that hermes was using machines now-a-days to some extend, if not mostly. However, I would doubt they'd ever do it all by machine. However I'm sure they'd always have craftsmen that could perform the level of stitching that we see in pictures and these videos. If nothing else, for special orders and repairs, etc. But as for the hand stitch looking like it's machine done, wouldn't that be achieved by using a stitching wheel to go over all the stitching after all is done, to unify the appearance? Or are they supposed to be beyond such techniques?

Edited March 3, 2012 by CustomDoug

[UnionCraft]

I believe a pricking iron is a must for this stitching. The holes used by Hermes and others with sloping stitches are different. Instead of a diamond shape hole, the have slanted slits. If you want your thread to go //////////////, you need portmanteau (left) pricking irons that look like \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\. If you get a vintage suitcase and pop out all the old thread, you'll see a WWWWWWWWWWWW like impression on the leather. the slants going towards the left are thread marks and the slants going towards the right are the actual holes punched in. Somewhere on this forum, someone said he or she spoke to a Hermes artisan about the pricking iron and the artisan said she actually hammers the iron all the way through instead of just "pricking" the leather. In a Alfred Dunhill video, he pounds his pricking iron hard too, so they both pre make the holes. In both Hermes and Dunhill videos, you can see an awl being used, but it's just to guide the back needle through since you can't see the back hole without bending over to look. It's also how you pull the thread as well. I'm probably going to order a Dixon iron soon, so I'll pit it to the the test and try different methods.