Sewing Close To Buckles

[Ferg]

I have seen someone sew across in a "V" pattern. Makes sense to me.

ferg

Hey, thanks for the examples. I don't want to purchase another presser foot at the moment, because they are super-duper expensive! So I'll try some of these methods. The thing is, I've read somewhere that it isn't a good idea to sew straight across the strap. It made sense to me because sewing pokes holes in the leather, which seems to make sort of a perforation across the strap. I figured that's why I've seen a lot of horse-tack straps sewn with a fish-like shape. Does this make sense or does it sound like a buncha baloney? I'm here to learn.

[Lwleather]

I make quite a few headstalls... What I do when I stitch one is put a copper rivet in right behind the buckle. Because when I use a center bar or cart style buckle I have the same issue... You can sew pretty close sideways until you try to turn the corner and go down the length. Then the back of the presser foot pushes on the buckle and messes up your stitching. When using a rivet it keeps everything tight and secure and you can space your stitching down just far enough to make everything nice and even. I have a left presser foot on my machine and that doesn't help any with the problem I run in to. Anyway, that's how I do it...

[Billsotx]

I figured some of the saddle folks would comment on this. If you look around in the saddle section you'll probably find an illustration, by Verlane and/or Bruce Johnson, of a wedge shaped piece of leather being used to "wedge" the buckle in its proper place of alignment - keep it from shifting around. The thick end of the wedge is jammed up against the bar of the buckle, the tapered end allows your fold to transition into the 2 straps. The wedge is the width of the straps. You glue it in and when you stitch you only stitch along the sides (edges) of the straps and of course the wedge since it's the same width. As Verlane constantly reminded us that the holes we punch for stitch are like perforation - she say, "Think tear along the dotted line." Stitching across a strap like a belt, halter, reins weakens them to no end - bad juju and insures a short life of the strap or belt.

The wedge should be the same thickness as your straps, a piece of scrap works fine. If you don't have a splitter you can skive the wedge edge with a round/head knife or a safety beveler. I used to use a small wood plane and block of sandpaper. An electric belt sander will also work, or a drum sander in a drill/drill press can suffice.

Here's one entry: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7455

Edited October 3, 2011 by Billsotx

[longtooth]

I guess I'll have to respond. I make a lot of custom halters and I have found that the simple way to sew the chape using a 5705 buckle is to run the chape thru the machine without any thread or buckle. Then install the buckle, glue the piece together and hand stitch. When doing this I always cross over the sides at the top of the buckle. This keeps the buckle from sliding or moving which causes wear. I have a pro 2000 harness stitcher from Fredco. I have been talking to Ron is son about a harness buckle foot. He said he has one in the works and will send when they come in. In the meantime I'll keep hand stitching the chapes.

[cercyonis]

Thanks again for the responses. I'm trying to avoid hand-sewing, naturally, and I did try the rivet at the buckle. I just thought I'd save money and time if I could just sew up to the buckle instead of messing with the rivet. I thought about somehow "shortening" a presser foot, too, but which one? I don't know enough to know which one could stand to be possibly ruined. Well, onto gaining experience.

[LeatherLegion]

Hope this helps... The stitching was done with a similar machine to yours,a Cowboy CB 4500, using the "reverse" feature. I came up with the vid. just because i thought it ws easier then explain the whole proces in writing/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o8_VeAH5fQ&edit=ev&feature=uenh

Thanks again for the responses. I'm trying to avoid hand-sewing, naturally, and I did try the rivet at the buckle. I just thought I'd save money and time if I could just sew up to the buckle instead of messing with the rivet. I thought about somehow "shortening" a presser foot, too, but which one? I don't know enough to know which one could stand to be possibly ruined. Well, onto gaining experience.

[Russ]

LL;

Did that foot come with the Cowboy or did you grind the toe off? Here is a picture of the foot that came with my Toro. I use one that I modified when sewing close to buckles, but I think the OP's issue is the toe on his foot is long, and he can't sew that close to the buckle along the long edge.

Thanks for the vid.

[LeatherLegion]

The foot came with the machine just the way you see it in the video. That's pretty much the only foot i am using...

LL;

Did that foot come with the Cowboy or did you grind the toe off? Here is a picture of the foot that came with my Toro. I use one that I modified when sewing close to buckles, but I think the OP's issue is the toe on his foot is long, and he can't sew that close to the buckle along the long edge.

Thanks for the vid.

[jimsaddler]

Simple answer is Use a Harness Foot set. Short toe and Heel DONT SEW ACROSS THE LEATHER as it does create a Zipper. Two ways to sew up to buckles.

1. Reverse using the Harness (short toe & heel) Foot, Say this is a Bridle Cheek, start a few stitched out from the buckle and sew as close as you can to the Buckle (in the stitch line), then reverse back along the line till you are clear of the buckle and able to turn the work arround 180 degrees, then continue to sew to the other end of the Cheek as far as you can and reverse back to lock the stitches. Lift the needle to the top of the stroke and move to the other side of the work and repeat the original process back to the Buckle finishing off in reverse again. Snip off the little thread that crosses the body of the work, Done properly it should appear like Hand sewing, but a bit looser on the Buckle end.

2. Use a Holster or Stirrup Plate and sew one stitch at a time up to the Buckle sideways and back into the clear then sew normally, Not as neat but gets closer to the Buckle.

Hope this helps.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Thanks again for the responses. I'm trying to avoid hand-sewing, naturally, and I did try the rivet at the buckle. I just thought I'd save money and time if I could just sew up to the buckle instead of messing with the rivet. I thought about somehow "shortening" a presser foot, too, but which one? I don't know enough to know which one could stand to be possibly ruined. Well, onto gaining experience.

[cercyonis]

Hope this helps... The stitching was done with a similar machine to yours,a Cowboy CB 4500, using the "reverse" feature. I came up with the vid. just because i thought it ws easier then explain the whole proces in writing/

Heyyyyyy, nice video! Thanks! But I did notice that your presser foot doesn't extend out in front of the needle and top feed dog (?) like mine does. I have three presser feet. Two are left and both extend in front of the needle, and one is a double, and both of its sides extend pretty far out, too. I guess I could grind off one of the left presser feet, since I have two. That's probably easier said than done. The presser feet I've found for the Artisan are $65 to $95, which seems like an awful lot.