Sewing Close To Buckles

[cercyonis]

I'm not much of a seamstress, so why am I trying to learn the basics of sewing on an Artisan 3000 with leather and biothane? To drive myself nuts, I guess. I have done a general search of the Web and this site, but can't find anything specifically about how to get the stitches close to buckles. The presser foot gets in the way. If I lift the presser foot, I get weird stitches. What's the trick?

~Jennifer

[TwinOaks]

Use right toe presser foot. Or the left toe presser foot. If you don't have either, contact one of the sewing machine distributors from this forum and they can get one to you. The l/r toe foot is basically half the presser foot, and allows you to run the center foot (where the needle is) right to the edge of something like a buckle. You'll still have to allow for the width of the center foot, but you should be able to get VERY CLOSE.

Here's a (somewhat blurry) picture showing what I'm talking about. Forgive the picture quality, it's a 'rush job' from a old camera (whopping 3 mega pixel and no macro):

The feet for YOUR sewing machine will be smaller than this one (Tippmann Boss), but this is just to show a 'one sided foot'.

[dirtclod]

If you start next to the buckle going down the length of what ever your sewing you can't get real close. But going back up the other side you can sew pretty close to the buckle. Trick is to make sure you enough of a lap so that it is secure. Not sure of that makes sense or not, if it doesn't i try to take a couple of pictures tomorrow.

[cercyonis]

Thank you for the replies. I received a few different presser feet with the machine, so I'll dig and see if any fit the bill.

[cercyonis]

Nope, all the presser feet I have extend out in front of the needle area. Time to spend more clams!

[Kevin]

If you can get hold of some old leather halters and look at the pattern of the stitching on the buckle piece, you will see how to do it. I have never stitched on a machine that lets you stitch all the way up to the buckle. You start on one side by the buckle and stitch across and down the other side down to the ring. Then start on the other side, stitch up toward the buckle, stitch across and end up by the buckle again. You will end up with a kind of curvacious V below the buckle.

Do not look at an Indian halter as they are sewn by hand and are able to stitch up to the buckle.

Good luck,

Kevin

[Ferg]

This may not go over too big with you but anyhow

Sew as close to the buckle as you can, up one side and down the other, Hand stitch across the strap at the buckle. If need be begin in the last machine stitch, hand sew to the buckle and across the strap even with your machine stitch and down that side to the last stitch. Tie off your hand stitching.

Another way is to simply stitch across the strap at the buckle beginning with a "wrapped stitch" on the edge, stitch across strap to stitch line and do another "Wrapped Stitch" .This is strong and attractive even if it does take a little longer.

This is a small photo but perhaps you can get the idea for the "Wrapped Stitch" from it.

ferg

Nope, all the presser feet I have extend out in front of the needle area. Time to spend more clams!

[TwinOaks]

Nope, all the presser feet I have extend out in front of the needle area. Time to spend more clams!

Ah, now I think I see what you were asking...

Turn the work sideways, and use either the left or right toe foot. You can guide the needle about 1/8th inch away from the buckle...like this-

Is that what you were talking about?

[cercyonis]

Hey, thanks for the examples. I don't want to purchase another presser foot at the moment, because they are super-duper expensive! So I'll try some of these methods. The thing is, I've read somewhere that it isn't a good idea to sew straight across the strap. It made sense to me because sewing pokes holes in the leather, which seems to make sort of a perforation across the strap. I figured that's why I've seen a lot of horse-tack straps sewn with a fish-like shape. Does this make sense or does it sound like a buncha baloney? I'm here to learn.

[stelmackr]

Hey, thanks for the examples. I don't want to purchase another presser foot at the moment, because they are super-duper expensive! So I'll try some of these methods. The thing is, I've read somewhere that it isn't a good idea to sew straight across the strap. It made sense to me because sewing pokes holes in the leather, which seems to make sort of a perforation across the strap. I figured that's why I've seen a lot of horse-tack straps sewn with a fish-like shape. Does this make sense or does it sound like a buncha baloney? I'm here to learn.

Just grind the toe off of one pressure foot.

Bob Stelmack

www.pslac.org

[Ferg]

I have seen someone sew across in a "V" pattern. Makes sense to me.

ferg

Hey, thanks for the examples. I don't want to purchase another presser foot at the moment, because they are super-duper expensive! So I'll try some of these methods. The thing is, I've read somewhere that it isn't a good idea to sew straight across the strap. It made sense to me because sewing pokes holes in the leather, which seems to make sort of a perforation across the strap. I figured that's why I've seen a lot of horse-tack straps sewn with a fish-like shape. Does this make sense or does it sound like a buncha baloney? I'm here to learn.

[Lwleather]

I make quite a few headstalls... What I do when I stitch one is put a copper rivet in right behind the buckle. Because when I use a center bar or cart style buckle I have the same issue... You can sew pretty close sideways until you try to turn the corner and go down the length. Then the back of the presser foot pushes on the buckle and messes up your stitching. When using a rivet it keeps everything tight and secure and you can space your stitching down just far enough to make everything nice and even. I have a left presser foot on my machine and that doesn't help any with the problem I run in to. Anyway, that's how I do it...

[Billsotx]

I figured some of the saddle folks would comment on this. If you look around in the saddle section you'll probably find an illustration, by Verlane and/or Bruce Johnson, of a wedge shaped piece of leather being used to "wedge" the buckle in its proper place of alignment - keep it from shifting around. The thick end of the wedge is jammed up against the bar of the buckle, the tapered end allows your fold to transition into the 2 straps. The wedge is the width of the straps. You glue it in and when you stitch you only stitch along the sides (edges) of the straps and of course the wedge since it's the same width. As Verlane constantly reminded us that the holes we punch for stitch are like perforation - she say, "Think tear along the dotted line." Stitching across a strap like a belt, halter, reins weakens them to no end - bad juju and insures a short life of the strap or belt.

The wedge should be the same thickness as your straps, a piece of scrap works fine. If you don't have a splitter you can skive the wedge edge with a round/head knife or a safety beveler. I used to use a small wood plane and block of sandpaper. An electric belt sander will also work, or a drum sander in a drill/drill press can suffice.

Here's one entry: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7455

Edited October 3, 2011 by Billsotx

[longtooth]

I guess I'll have to respond. I make a lot of custom halters and I have found that the simple way to sew the chape using a 5705 buckle is to run the chape thru the machine without any thread or buckle. Then install the buckle, glue the piece together and hand stitch. When doing this I always cross over the sides at the top of the buckle. This keeps the buckle from sliding or moving which causes wear. I have a pro 2000 harness stitcher from Fredco. I have been talking to Ron is son about a harness buckle foot. He said he has one in the works and will send when they come in. In the meantime I'll keep hand stitching the chapes.

[cercyonis]

Thanks again for the responses. I'm trying to avoid hand-sewing, naturally, and I did try the rivet at the buckle. I just thought I'd save money and time if I could just sew up to the buckle instead of messing with the rivet. I thought about somehow "shortening" a presser foot, too, but which one? I don't know enough to know which one could stand to be possibly ruined. Well, onto gaining experience.

[LeatherLegion]

Hope this helps... The stitching was done with a similar machine to yours,a Cowboy CB 4500, using the "reverse" feature. I came up with the vid. just because i thought it ws easier then explain the whole proces in writing/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o8_VeAH5fQ&edit=ev&feature=uenh

Thanks again for the responses. I'm trying to avoid hand-sewing, naturally, and I did try the rivet at the buckle. I just thought I'd save money and time if I could just sew up to the buckle instead of messing with the rivet. I thought about somehow "shortening" a presser foot, too, but which one? I don't know enough to know which one could stand to be possibly ruined. Well, onto gaining experience.

[Russ]

LL;

Did that foot come with the Cowboy or did you grind the toe off? Here is a picture of the foot that came with my Toro. I use one that I modified when sewing close to buckles, but I think the OP's issue is the toe on his foot is long, and he can't sew that close to the buckle along the long edge.

Thanks for the vid.

[LeatherLegion]

The foot came with the machine just the way you see it in the video. That's pretty much the only foot i am using...

LL;

Did that foot come with the Cowboy or did you grind the toe off? Here is a picture of the foot that came with my Toro. I use one that I modified when sewing close to buckles, but I think the OP's issue is the toe on his foot is long, and he can't sew that close to the buckle along the long edge.

Thanks for the vid.

[jimsaddler]

Simple answer is Use a Harness Foot set. Short toe and Heel DONT SEW ACROSS THE LEATHER as it does create a Zipper. Two ways to sew up to buckles.

1. Reverse using the Harness (short toe & heel) Foot, Say this is a Bridle Cheek, start a few stitched out from the buckle and sew as close as you can to the Buckle (in the stitch line), then reverse back along the line till you are clear of the buckle and able to turn the work arround 180 degrees, then continue to sew to the other end of the Cheek as far as you can and reverse back to lock the stitches. Lift the needle to the top of the stroke and move to the other side of the work and repeat the original process back to the Buckle finishing off in reverse again. Snip off the little thread that crosses the body of the work, Done properly it should appear like Hand sewing, but a bit looser on the Buckle end.

2. Use a Holster or Stirrup Plate and sew one stitch at a time up to the Buckle sideways and back into the clear then sew normally, Not as neat but gets closer to the Buckle.

Hope this helps.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Thanks again for the responses. I'm trying to avoid hand-sewing, naturally, and I did try the rivet at the buckle. I just thought I'd save money and time if I could just sew up to the buckle instead of messing with the rivet. I thought about somehow "shortening" a presser foot, too, but which one? I don't know enough to know which one could stand to be possibly ruined. Well, onto gaining experience.

[cercyonis]

Hope this helps... The stitching was done with a similar machine to yours,a Cowboy CB 4500, using the "reverse" feature. I came up with the vid. just because i thought it ws easier then explain the whole proces in writing/

Heyyyyyy, nice video! Thanks! But I did notice that your presser foot doesn't extend out in front of the needle and top feed dog (?) like mine does. I have three presser feet. Two are left and both extend in front of the needle, and one is a double, and both of its sides extend pretty far out, too. I guess I could grind off one of the left presser feet, since I have two. That's probably easier said than done. The presser feet I've found for the Artisan are $65 to $95, which seems like an awful lot.