Burnishing edges ....

[leatheroo]

Burnished edges look great. I have read about lots of different ways to burnish edges... wood, cloth dremels etc....

I have used all these depending on the project. I have to admit the one i like the best is another piece of leather....

What is your favorite and why??????

Edited June 25, 2008 by leatheroo

[TomSwede]

I just suck at it

Tom

[singteck]

Gum tragacanth, bone folder and canvas. That's what I learned from the book and have stuck to it ever since.

singteck

[JohnD]

I have been using gum trag and canvas, but didn't like the white specs I would get, so I tried saddle soap and canvas. It burnished very easily but for some reason didn't last, when I would burnish more it would turn an uneven black and look dirty.

I was told by another leatherworker to try beeswax with the canvas, so I will be trying that soon.

John

[Hilly]

I just suck at it

Tom

No no no! Don't suck. SPIT.

Saliva and a nice little nylon edge slicker works good. But only on my own stuff. For others' I use water and my edge slicker. I've used beeswax and a piece of canvas, but didn't like it as much as the water and slicker.

[TomSwede]

No no no! Don't suck. SPIT. Saliva and a nice little nylon edge slicker works good. But only on my own stuff. For others' I use water and my edge slicker. I've used beeswax and a piece of canvas, but didn't like it as much as the water and slicker.

Ah good point there, it's just so tasty I tried recently alot with bonefolder and gum trag, think I try your method with water instead.Tom

[Rich]

I change between beeswax and gum trag. Mostly depends on what's closest to me. I LOVE my wood slicker, but it seemed to have grown legs and is hiding from me. So I'm stuck with my nylon one. If I have a project I'm working with skirting leather, I have a swatch of wool tweed. (actually, it's a piece of an old tweed jacket I used to wear in the 80's) It sure aint gonna fit me anymore, plus I don't want to be mistaken as one of those eccentric professors at USC.

[Washroad]

plus I don't want to be mistaken as one of those eccentric professors at USC.

^^^^^^^^

I've used water, gum trag, spit(!), nothing, plastic, wood, canvas, denim. Some pieces won't slick with one thing, try another. Eventually something will slick it up nice.

[Pauly]

I use beeswax with my ugly stick....this is a stick I picked up at the park which I cut a groove in and cleaned up. It's some kind of eucalypt and the groove works really well on my edges. I haven't seen this done but I'm sure I would have just reinvented the wheel. Works for me and the price was right.

[UKRay]

I tend to paint on gum trag mixed with a little dye to stain the edges an appropriate colour and then rub like fury (in one direction) with an old golf towel I stole from my father - he doesn't even play golf!

If it is a strap then I pull the strap through a fold in the towel, anything else gets a good rubbing until the edge gleams. A trick I picked up from a guy who made a lot of 'inexpensive' belts was to use one of those liquid shoe polish applicators (they sell them for kids shoes) with the sponge on to apply your edge stain/sealer. You can always use the shoe polish straight from the applcator and that works well too as long as you don't mind using a stock colour.

I'd like to try one of those Weaver edge staining gizmos - does anyone know anything about them?

Ray Hatley

[Rawhide]

I dye the edge first with the appropriate color, using felt and a clothespin. Let that dry and then buff of the dyestuffs with a dry cloth. Next wet the edge with a little water and then slick with a piece of CORDURA material. This material is absolutely fantastic for slicking edges!! Then I either rewet a bit or use beeswax and use either my bone folder or a cocobolo slicker with grooves in it.

Marlon

[rdb]

There's lots of methods people use, from saddle soap, to plastic dip.

Here's what I do when I get serious....

Materials:

1. canvas carpenter apron from home depot, Lowe's etc. ( I rub beeswax all over one side, keep the other side clean).

2 . dye.

3. gum trag.

4. beeswax.

5. Finisher (usually Atom Wax for shine).

First I bevel, then I wet the edge, and run it through the clean side of the apron. This makes for a smoother application of the dye, instead of onto a rough edge.

If it's a belt or strap, I punch a hole on one end. I have a nail on my bench to slip over. Feibing's Oil Dye the edge, and not waiting for a full dry, I grasp the apron (unwaxed side) and run the belt through one way a couple 3 times. Then starting at one end, I do fast strokes up and down about a foot each until I reach the end. On a hot day, it's quite aerobic! Especially if I'm doing reins...backing up 8', going forward 8'...etc...sheesh a 1/4 mile in no time...lol

At this point it's pretty smooth, but it won't last under use. Now apply the gum, and wait 10 minutes, then back to the nail, and a rub down. That stuff seals it pretty good. But it ain't perfect yet....

Then I take a wax cake, and rub it direct to the edge, then back to the nail for another aerobic exercise. By this time, all the pores are filled and sealed, smoooooove. A little Atom Wax for gleam, thereyago...

I've seen the edge finish machine working. It does a nice job of edge inking a flat straight edge strap. It seems finicky on a rounded edge. For production work (hundreds of straps)it would be the only way to go.

[andystevens]

Here is what use and the order I use.

1. Wet and slick the edges with a edge stick or deer antler

2. Apply the dye to edge (I do this after the edge is slicked so the dye applies evenly and straight on the top and bottom of the edge)

3. right after I dye the edge I rub paraffin wax (canning or candle wax cheap and you can get at your market).

4. wet the edge again and I use heavy canvas for a rag and rub like hell remember water and friction heat is what makes the wax melt into the fiber and create the mirror finish.

This way of finishing the edges works very well for me on most to all types and weights of leather. You can also use this method on old or used pieces to shine it up.

Edited June 27, 2008 by andystevens

[barra]

I pretty much do it like Andy but it depends on the article. I used to apply an edge stain made from a powder added to water called bismark red (redish/brown). To this was added some pearl glue. I think this is also known as hide glue. Now I make my edge stains (not dye) from bricklayers oxide powders of various shades and add a good dollop of PVA glue. On large strap goods like harness traces or stirrup leathers I anchor the strap to the bench and using a canvas rub rag, I grasp the strap and grip hard as I walk backward. I repeat this as necessary. I had never used gum trag, in fact I had never heard of it until a few years ago. One day I noticed that various species of gum tree (eucalypt) oozed this thick, dark and hard sap. I thought gum tree, gum trag, I then collected some and disolved it in boiling water and when cooled somewhat I applied it to the edge of some leather and used the rub rag technique. The result was miraculous. I mostly use this solution now instead of just plain water. I also use a few burnishing impliments.

1. A burnishing stick.

2. A burnishing iron which can be heated over a flame kinda like hot creasing.

3. A bone burnisher which is the impliment on the left. It is simply a polished bone stuck into a handle like an awl and is very handy for getting into tight areas.

Edited June 28, 2008 by barra

[Michael Sheldon]

I've used a handful of techniques and materials over time. Lately, I'm using one of the "exotic" wood spindle-type slickers in a small drill press, with gum trag.

The one thing I will say, is just skip the nylon slickers. The problem with them is that they are too smooth, and don't generate as much friction as wood or bone. I had a nylon spindle up until a couple months ago, identical in shape and size to the wood one I use now, and the difference is night and day.

[esantoro]

I dye the edge first with the appropriate color, using felt and a clothespin. Let that dry and then buff of the dyestuffs with a dry cloth. Next wet the edge with a little water and then slick with a piece of CORDURA material. This material is absolutely fantastic for slicking edges!! Then I either rewet a bit or use beeswax and use either my bone folder or a cocobolo slicker with grooves in it.

Marlon

Hi Marlon,

What kind of felt do you use to apply dye? I was using thin polyester craft felt tripled over, but that got too stringy too quickly. I still use it for applying water and gum trag, but not dye. Now I'm trying 1/4" grade 7 felt from McMasters. Works better, but stringier than I thought it would be.

I've been having some luck slicking chrome tanned edges with glycerin saddle soap and cotton canvas burnisher. That Cordura you mention is nylon, correct?

Ed

[phlegmaticdog]

One more option to add to all good ideas here is a trick I learned from a local leatherworker: Mix a little turpentine with some thinly sliced beeswax. It takes some time and patience to mix, but eventually forms a thick paste. I've only tried it with a nylon edger, but it produced a very nice edge. Of course, it has the typical turpentine odor for awhile, but that dissipates after a day or two.

Dave M

[barra]

I also use the turps and beeswax solution. I make sure I use gum turpentine and not mineral turpentine that you would use to clean paint brushes though.

Barra

Edited June 30, 2008 by barra

[Shorts]

I apply dye to the edge to wet, then burnish with a wooden dowel. Then I take a lump of beeswax, rub over the edges and go again with the wooden dowel. When that's smooth, I shine with horsehair.

[Rawhide]

Hi Marlon,

What kind of felt do you use to apply dye? I was using thin polyester craft felt tripled over, but that got too stringy too quickly. I still use it for applying water and gum trag, but not dye. Now I'm trying 1/4" grade 7 felt from McMasters. Works better, but stringier than I thought it would be.

I've been having some luck slicking chrome tanned edges with glycerin saddle soap and cotton canvas burnisher. That Cordura you mention is nylon, correct?

Ed

I use felt I bought at Joann Fabric. I can't remember the type or brand though. Have you tried to use a hard felt, like from a felt wheel? I think mcmaster carries felt sheets like this.

The Cordura looks like a nylon. It is a dupont brand name. and I got the idea from.. of course Peter Main. The fibers are really tight and it generates heat very quickly.

[yaklady]

One more option to add to all good ideas here is a trick I learned from a local leatherworker: Mix a little turpentine with some thinly sliced beeswax. It takes some time and patience to mix, but eventually forms a thick paste. I've only tried it with a nylon edger, but it produced a very nice edge. Of course, it has the typical turpentine odor for awhile, but that dissipates after a day or two.

Dave M

Did you learn that one from Mike Button?

[pavilionpony]

I dampen the edges, rub parafin (spelling..?) wax on them, then rub the wax again on a piece of canvas. The heat from rubbing it back and forth seems to smooth it out really nice.

[tonyc1]

I pretty much do it like Andy but it depends on the article. I used to apply an edge stain made from a powder added to water called bismark red (redish/brown). To this was added some pearl glue. I think this is also known as hide glue. Now I make my edge stains (not dye) from bricklayers oxide powders of various shades and add a good dollop of PVA glue. On large strap goods like harness traces or stirrup leathers I anchor the strap to the bench and using a canvas rub rag, I grasp the strap and grip hard as I walk backward. I repeat this as necessary. I had never used gum trag, in fact I had never heard of it until a few years ago. One day I noticed that various species of gum tree (eucalypt) oozed this thick, dark and hard sap. I thought gum tree, gum trag, I then collected some and disolved it in boiling water and when cooled somewhat I applied it to the edge of some leather and used the rub rag technique. The result was miraculous. I mostly use this solution now instead of just plain water. I also use a few burnishing impliments.

1. A burnishing stick.

2. A burnishing iron which can be heated over a flame kinda like hot creasing.

3. A bone burnisher which is the impliment on the left. It is simply a polished bone stuck into a handle like an awl and is very handy for getting into tight areas.

The sap that oozes out of wattle trees is very good also, Barra.

Tony.

[viejo]

I found that little nylon wheel that I'd bought from Tandy and put aside many years ago. The first time I tried it, I couldn't figure out how it was supposed to work.

I fit it to a spare mandrell for my Dremel tool today. I think that wetting the edges and running that wheel along the edge at 30,000rpm may well do the trick.

[swivelsphinx]

I find that having a variety of burnishing tools is helpful. I have used actual bone folders (I make them out of cattle and deer bone), antler burnishers, nylon "slickers", and folded pieces of light canvas. It helps to use an edger first, and moistening the entire edge slightly doesn't hurt either. I like gum tracaganth on by belt edges and portruding bag seams too!

Did you learn that one from Mike Button?

I wonder if an amber furniture wax or bowling alley wax might not give similar results... hmmm....