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Tja Trox

Our VAT is also 25% but toll is 10%. Thievs!

I got the syncronizer in the box. It says in the manual that if you put the motor/machine ratio 1:1 you don´t need the syncronizer. Then I thought that it can be calibrated with other gear ratio.

I got the motor running now but I might need some reading help further on. On lowest you can make one stitch in a century. And you can sew threw 18 mm norwegian plywood!

Without jokes it feels strong on low speed. The machine is gonna be moved around and used as a mobile unit. Everything mechanical will be one unit as on the pimped Adler 120.

I have watched those movieclips 10 times today. That´s a strong machine!

Got this speed controller thing you connect to a rod to the pedal. But shouldnt there be a pedal for loose use with the speed controller built in?

It will take some time.

Will be away for some days.

Thanks!

http://www.imca.net/Sites/Imca/files/manuali70M.pdf

Thanks Mattias,

But the synchronizer should be together with the motor, it is normally included in the motor package. If you do not see it (like on my Efka) it is an internal one. This new modern motor system surely calculates the belt slippage and everything. I know that the Efka counterpart, the 1550 is strong enough to propel a 441 or a 205-370 with out any speed reducer. Even on the biggest tasks. I see no reason that the Ho Sing 1 hp AC motor will not. No worries, it will be strong and slow enough. If you have the data sheet on it, send it over and I will have a look at it later. I have some experience with similar applications, and know the terms and language. You must have the motor on the top of the table because of the boats hull shape, am I correct? You must remember to mount the motor in a way that you will be able to adjust the belt tension (without a speed reducer that is no problem. With one is difficult, because you have to place the reducer in a way that makes it possible to tension both belt) you must have a place for the thread rack too. It will need a thread rack that pulls thread of the top of the thread spool (the machine want sew proper without it). In addition, you will need a belt cover to avoid thread (or anything else) in your motor, that is now in an exposed position. This is the tings you should have in mind when you building the machine stand. It might be other concerns too, it is best to study the motor instructions well before you start. (I can help you with that; I can also give you my skype number if needed) Those Instructions can be frightening, building up a machine can be very time consuming even for a trained sewing machine engineer. The Shipping price was not too bad; do you have as much as 35 % VAT? Here it is 25 %. Thanks for the invitation, if I am in Sweden I let you know. I hope this will help a bit. Send me the data sheet and I have a look.

Trox

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The motor want work well with out the sync, (position head). One to one ratio t is a bad idea it will not work. The machine itself is strong; it has built in gears that make it strong. You must have a big hand wheel to punch true heavy leather, that’s what makes a leather machine (among other things, this is a key)

 

You know how much that Adler costs? About 200 000,- Euro. And it is big, very big.

Be careful to run the motor with out a sewing machine on, it will not work the right way. The machine also has to be grounded (the current). There is a stand-alone sewing pedal, with a cable available. You will need the speed control (pedal) for sure. With all respect, do some more reading up before you start; you have a lot to learn. Read posts about what makes a good leather machine, it all applies to your machine. Your machine is build for leatherwork; find out what makes it that good. Compare it to a normal Juki 441. It is important than you know this things when set up your machine.

Then you will have some good question to ask me the next time, He he. We talk later, I do not like to read instructions my self, but we all have to. All the answers are in the forum to. Good luck,

Later

Trox

Tja Trox

Our VAT is also 25% but toll is 10%. Thievs!

I got the syncronizer in the box. It says in the manual that if you put the motor/machine ratio 1:1 you don´t need the syncronizer. Then I thought that it can be calibrated with other gear ratio.

I got the motor running now but I might need some reading help further on. On lowest you can make one stitch in a century. And you can sew threw 18 mm norwegian plywood!

Without jokes it feels strong on low speed. The machine is gonna be moved around and used as a mobile unit. Everything mechanical will be one unit as on the pimped Adler 120.

I have watched those movieclips 10 times today. That´s a strong machine!

Got this speed controller thing you connect to a rod to the pedal. But shouldnt there be a pedal for loose use with the speed controller built in?

It will take some time.

Will be away for some days.

Thanks!

http://www.imca.net/.../manuali70M.pdf

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

  • Tjena Trox
    No Machine yet.. Leather Machine Company recieved the funds the 7 of feb., were going to send the machine the week after. Shipping 20-22 days. Since then promising to send it once in a while after me asking.
    Today they tell me they have send it this morning and it´s going to take 39 days to Malmö.
    This was not what I expected.
    I hope that the machine is nice.

Posted

Hi Gong,

He did not have a machine in stock, I think everybody have to wait to get them from China. Did he not inform you about this? All the machines he gets from China goes direckt to the customers after adjustment etc. first. The shipping was slow, but it is to keep the price down?. I was sure you already was sewing on your Cobra, I can understand your your dissapoitment. You have to keep in contackt with them, not be the one customer who is on the bottom on the waiting list. This is becauce he have to many people on his waiting list, calling him every day. The Chineese can only deliver a certain ammount of machines every third month or so, all the machines go direct out. He wants more machines, but can not have them. Search the forum, this has been on here before.

I hope you get it soon,stay in touch.

  • Tjena Trox
    No Machine yet.. Leather Machine Company recieved the funds the 7 of feb., were going to send the machine the week after. Shipping 20-22 days. Since then promising to send it once in a while after me asking.
    Today they tell me they have send it this morning and it´s going to take 39 days to Malmö.
    This was not what I expected.
    I hope that the machine is nice.

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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Posted

Wiz, how long will it take me to teach you lot that treadle is the only way to go? At the moment 90% of my business is hand crank and I am trying to upgrade them to treadle!

How about using bicycle sprockets and a chain to drive the machine from the small motor?

Darren Brosowski

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Posted

When you talk about Treadles. I use my old Singer Pedal (not Treadle) and change the Heads around as required. Heads include: Cowboy 7441 16" Arm for Heavy Saddle & Harness Work, (Adler Clone) 205, for medium work, Cowboy 105 clone or 45K25, for Fancy Stitching on Winkers and Back Saddle Flaps. Better than any Motor for accuracy, the back pedal drive means instant control and power.

Only Problem is they are very hard to find in good order. I'm actually contemplating getting mine copied in China if there is enough interest in my doing so.

That may stop the incessant stream of enquires of " how much will convince you to part with it? Seriously these were one of Singers best inventions for Saddlers.

Originally they were made for the Singer 7- classes in the late 1800's which required a bit of oomphff to power. I've included a link to the Singer Illustration of the Stand.

Much better than any Hand Crank! Also Eko Friendly.

<http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/images0-99/7-1.jpg>

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Wiz, how long will it take me to teach you lot that treadle is the only way to go? At the moment 90% of my business is hand crank and I am trying to upgrade them to treadle!

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Posted

I was asked to build one of those pedal bases recently but turned the job down. There is a piss weak version built in china now for the GR1-8 machine.

If you do get them made in China then I can sell them!!

When you talk about Treadles. I use my old Singer Pedal (not Treadle) and change the Heads around as required. Heads include: Cowboy 7441 16" Arm for Heavy Saddle & Harness Work, (Adler Clone) 205, for medium work, Cowboy 105 clone or 45K25, for Fancy Stitching on Winkers and Back Saddle Flaps. Better than any Motor for accuracy, the back pedal drive means instant control and power.

Only Problem is they are very hard to find in good order. I'm actually contemplating getting mine copied in China if there is enough interest in my doing so.

That may stop the incessant stream of enquires of " how much will convince you to part with it? Seriously these were one of Singers best inventions for Saddlers.

Originally they were made for the Singer 7- classes in the late 1800's which required a bit of oomphff to power. I've included a link to the Singer Illustration of the Stand.

Much better than any Hand Crank! Also Eko Friendly.

<http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/images0-99/7-1.jpg>

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Darren Brosowski

  • 8 years later...
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Posted

I know this an old thread but does anyone have a picture of the Singer Pedal Base?  I have a 29K71 on a treadle base and enjoy using it.  I would definitely consider making one.  Jim if you're still active here, I would appreciate any information you could provide.  Thanks

Posted
9 hours ago, jrdunn said:

I know this an old thread but does anyone have a picture of the Singer Pedal Base?  I have a 29K71 on a treadle base and enjoy using it.  I would definitely consider making one.  Jim if you're still active here, I would appreciate any information you could provide.  Thanks

Here's one for the 7 class which needed a the double pedals to power through the thicker material it can sew.The treadle wheel on the 45K is just heavier than your 29.

singer 7class on treadle stand.jpg

singer 45k on treadle stand.jpg

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted

Ah, thanks Bob.  I found one on Youtube and it scared me silly after "lipping off" about making one.  It is definitely outside my skillset.  Take a look.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=crmas&ei=UTF-8&p=singer+pedal+sewing+machine+base#id=4&vid=874af4c19e54daa0c5179a7a3c1f3c3e&action=view

I might be able to cobble something together along the lines of the picture you posted.  I'm not saying it'd be anything near pretty.

Jim

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