Good-Looking Miter Joints?

[DoctorFedora]

I've recently decided to try to make a small box, and from the Al Stohlman books I learned I could make one using only leather as the support. The only problem is that I don't own the book, as I was flipping through it at my local Tandy. When I tried to make my own miter, I saw that the holes I made looked very rough and bumpy, even when sewn together. Is there a specific tool I need to use to make the holes for stitching (I am currently using am awl), or am I just making the holes incorrectly?

Thanks in advance.

[Tree Reaper]

A picture would help.

Which awl blade are you using?

Kevin

[DoctorFedora]

I am using a Craftool awl that I got from Tandy.

Here is the piece in question. The area around the stitching looks rather bumpy. (Don't mind the additional holes, I was testing a spacer wheel on here as well.)

[dbusarow]

Looks more like you are pulling the thread too tight. That's what is causing the leather to buckle. I'd also use a smaller thread for this application.

Dan

[Bob Blea]

I've been trying to learn to do this just today. I'm certainly not an expert, but it looks like you might be a little too close to the edge of the leather and that is causing the fibers of the leather to bulge as you push the awl through. Also, as you pull the thread tight it would cause the leather to buckle. In the Stohlman book he recommends grooving a line back from the edge that is same distance from the edge as the thickness of two leathers. In his example the thickness of the two leathers combined is 3/16 so the grooved line is 3/16 from the edge. I've just done this on a card case I'm making and it seems a little too far in, but it's working and not buckling.

Bob

[HellfireJack]

That's a scratch awl you're using. While you can use it it's not the best. A diamond pointed stitching awl will give you better looking holes and be easier to puncture the leather. And as already stated use a smaller thread.

[DoctorFedora]

I suspect Bob may be right about me being close to the edge - the bulges occur when I make the holes. However, I don't have any smaller thread, but will try to grab some next time I can. Thank you all for your help, much appreciated.

[Bob Blea]

Just as a follow up, when I was working on my card case last night I came a little too close to the edge on the back side as I was pushing the awl through, and the leather actually tore a bit. I couldn't use the hole as it was and had to 'correct' for it by making a new hole lower and to the side so it would hold the thread. So, that probably shows the experience and wisdom of using the 'two thicknesses of leather' rule that Al Stohlman mentions in the hand sewing book. My only problem is that on some of the holes you can see a little of the hole and thread from the inside of the case. I didn't do a really good job when skiving the mitered edge (it doesn't come down to a feathered edge like it's supposed to) so that might account for the problems I'm seeing inside the box. More things to try and improve on with the next case.....

Bob

[BWL]

I would agree with Dan, and your lace is too big:rolleyes2: but I will say this, I admire you starting to learn stitching on the miter, good job!

Looks more like you are pulling the thread too tight. That's what is causing the leather to buckle. I'd also use a smaller thread for this application.

Dan

[DV8DUG]

On 1/17/2012 at 3:22 PM, Bob Blea said:

 In the Stohlman book he recommends grooving a line back from the edge that is same distance from the edge as the thickness of two leathers. In his example the thickness of the two leathers combined is 3/16 so the grooved line is 3/16 from the edge. I've just done this on a card case I'm making and it seems a little too far in, but it's working and not buckling.

Bob

I too, own the book and it does refer to page 7 step "C" (where it says thickness of both leathers) in the instruction for sewing a miter. This won't work well as this step was intended for sistering two pieces together.  Also on the same page for sewing a miter he clearly shows the distance of sewing channel in relation to the miter. Just inside the short point on the flesh side of leather.

Remember to tap down stitches with a smoothed face finish hammer while blocked. Hope this clears up any miscues...